'84 1200 engine for a '82 GW

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[url=https://classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=184523#p184523:2wlljyqi said:
dan filipi » Sun Dec 04, 2016 3:48 pm[/url]":2wlljyqi]
If the cam is in place then I think that rocker is at the point against the cam that's starting to open the valve. Try rotating the cam a bit?
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I have the cam rotated so it's on the base of the lobe under that rocker. I have the end cap off the rocker shaft so I can rotate the rocker shaft with a screwdriver in the slot on the end. Or take the rocker shaft out. I can rotate the shaft so there is big rocker clearance and then push a screwdriver into the lifter bore and close up clearance. All that stuff seems to be working right. But the lifter won't slide in all the way.
 
[url=https://classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=184522#p184522:3i0q8bht said:
joedrum » Sun Dec 04, 2016 3:45 pm[/url]":3i0q8bht]
hmmmmm not me ..i dont like 1200 heads one bit ...so i cant help here really...now that got me wondering too ..what could cause that
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I agree it seems like a lot of stuff has to work right for the hydraulic lifters to work. But I haven't heard that it is a weak point in the 1200s.
 
So here is my shim measure tool (7/16" bolt). The pencil line (arrow) is how far it goes in to take up all clearance at rocker. With the lifter even with the end of the tool, it is about 1/4" short of that line. So I expect it to be about 1/4" down in the lifter bore from the top edge of the bore. But it only goes in so it is about 1/8" down. Can't see why it won't go in further.
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Not liking the 1200 heads doesn't help solve the problem....

Anyway, I think the adjuster pin is under some pressure. Try one of the others in its place to see if it will go in all the way.
 
well dan is the one who can tell you the problem with 1200 heads ...or me too ..dan worked on bike with overheating issues ...1200 head have that air zone in them ..when it got hot it cracked the head right there ...and this pressurized the cooling system ..took forever to figure this out ...even the experts missed it ...it took a new head to cure things ..i decided i didnt want hot air chamber in the heads of a bike of mine ...as for your problem im still not seeing why it dont work like the others
 
OK, so I figured it out. I took the rocker shaft out again and tried sliding the lifter into the recess with the flat part...it is a pretty close fit. So I figured the rocker shaft might not be going in far enough to line up with lifter. There is a spindle thing that goes in the rocker shaft bore in the middle that both exhaust rocker shafts fit into. So I loosened the middle rocker assembly bolt off. That allowed the rocker shaft to go in a tiny bit more so the lifter dropped in.

Anyway, you had to be there :builder:
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Like a weapon, :roll: just right, & it almost falls back together. :hihihi:Glad it's handled :good:
 
[url=https://classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=184624#p184624:2mcs3lul said:
Denver » Tue Dec 06, 2016 3:48 pm[/url]":2mcs3lul]
Like a weapon, :roll: just right, & it almost falls back together. :hihihi:Glad it's handled :good:
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"Weapon"... I like that Denver. :music2: :Egyptian:
 
I went to get the newspaper this morning and found a box from RockAuto at the front door. So I have those elusive rings. :Egyptian:

First thing I did was do a trial fit of a ring in a cylinder. Looks like the ring ends overlap by about 1mm which is about what I had with my 1100 rering job.
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My challeng is to grind the ring ends down to get the right end gap. And at the same time making sure that the ends fit together nice and square. :builder:

The bad news is that I cold so will not be working on it for a day or two. :swoon: :doh:
 
[url=https://www.classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=184935#p184935:2493hzh1 said:
joedrum » Thu Dec 15, 2016 8:51 am[/url]":2493hzh1]
take your time brian ...think it out good ... :popcorn:
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Excellent advise Joe :thanks:. There are so many things to screw up it's scary. :shock:
 
I am feeling a bit better today so I went out to the garage to see what I can do with the rings. :builder: The tool I use to grind the ends of the rings is a piece of sandpaper, folded over, and sticking out of the top of the vice.
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I hold the ring ends together against the sandpaper and draw it towards me. Being careful to keep the ring ends square. Every 5 or 10 strokes I wipe the ends off and hold the ends together in front of a light background to make sure both ends come together with no gap. Then I try the ring in the cylinder using the piston to push it down near the bottom of it's stroke.

At first the rings overlap on the ends but eventually they start to get close to not overlapping. That' s when you have to be careful because once the ends fit together (not overlap) it doesn't take much sanding to go from tight to .002" to .005" to too much.

I did the second ring on #1 cylinder with this ring end gap: .004" feeler gauge falls through, .005" is held lightly and .006" can be pushed in with light push. So I figure I have about .0055"to end gap. The GL1200 shop manual shows a minimum gap of .004" which seems tight so I am happy with the end gap I have.

Brian
 

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