hooch blew a head gasket

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Hmmmm Brian it seems I have trashed my motor in hooch ...it hard to say really was the big nail in the coffin ....after my bout with trying copper head gaskets ...I'm sure I ended up shaving the heads quite a bit ...I mean shaving the block......I'm guessing more compression and such ...well it seems since then the bike ran well ...but if you really went after it ...it seemed to run out of gas in the carb ...I'm thinking the machanicly fuel pump was already maxed out pushing gas to the dft carb that sits even higher than stock carbs...and the bike started shutting down ....I remember while trying to right everything out ..the shut down one time and then it came back on and really yanked that crap out of me and the bike ..it seems it started make noise from then on from the motor ..it has gotten worse it seems ..not sure if it's a rod or wrist pin ...but I'm thinking it one or the other ...I've pretty much lost hope on the motor ....before this the motor was the quietest wing I'd ever had...
When you have a motor with the potential as hooch has and something like this happens ...that's all it takes to over stress the motor ....when I was at the Carlyle meet and greet.we tried to fix the problem thinking maybe new fuel pump might fix it ..at first I thought it was doing better and went for test ride ...well it wasn't ...the bike shut down in first wot and again came back to life and really pulled the front wheel off the ground ...talk abou yeng yang effect on me sheesh ...I told the guys when I got back what hooch did .....from there I left the meet and greet and baby the bike home ...I havnt done any riding since ..I've only started it a few times ...I've been very busy rebuilding the house where I'm going to live and driving my sons car for transportation

Witch by the way is a Toyota supra 85 yr with the strait six sports car motor ...what a ride ...it's like an adult go kart....it really gets with it ..stops on a dime ...and has no body roll what so ever...I'd take this thing over a Z Nissan any day ....nice car ..I never knew much about them ...they sure are bad to the bone .....

So hooch is in the garage in down time now...
 
Been out of the loop pretty much while finishing up my last year at work. Hadn't caught this thread. Sorry to hear of Hooch's possible demise - but I wonder if maybe the hard acceleration may be causing something else? Floats keeping the carbs from getting gas, fuel filters screwing up, even electrical system running out of juice (or C5 hiccups). Hope you don't give up unless you find a major failure. I know the work you put in on the heads and block as I've done the same on the Hunley. And I used copper head gaskets back in the 70's on an old Triumph 650 - annealed over a gas stove burner in my dad's mobile home while he wasn't home.
 
Well no I’m not giving up on hooch ...I’ve been very busy working on new homestead minus the shedevil...I think the exoerience with the copper head gaskets ...led to much higher compression ..I’m thinking now hooch requires premium gas and also an electric fuel pump ....and I also think the motor got damaged some from when it shut off once and then came back on with a huge yank on the motor causing it to knock now ....I want to change the short block out with another motor ...trying to get one now ...and get back to where regular pump gas will work in it ...and maybe go through the motor I have now to try and find the lower end problem .....it was a bad day loosing all the oldwing stuff to last me forever to the shedevil .....but I’m coming back ....the new place where I’m living is ten times bigger more secluded and about 1/8 mile from some of the best bike roads in the country to travel ....to me hooch is a one of a kind bike ...I put on who knows how many miles on it before I made the bad move of milling the block down by hand ...sometimes being able to do something is just what’s needed to really screw something up LOL ....the hooch bike in all ways was super reliable bike that made many road trips ....but the motor now is more like a drag strip bike now ....hooch will be back :builder:
 
Rednaxs60":1q13ru2p said:
I also put in a rad fan switch so I could manually turn it on when in the city, at slow speeds or stop lights. I find this helps quite a bit and I generally turn the rad fan on when I hit 6 bars on the temp indicator. The owner's manual states that with a 10 bar indicator, normal operating range is between 2 and 8 bars. Not willing to hit the upper range.

The 1200 rad is supposed to be a high efficiency rad. Nice to say but a cooler engine is better than a hotter one. Will have to investigate the difference in size between the 1000 and 1200 rads for future reference.

Cheers
hi rednaxs60
i'm wondering about if there are also differences with the coolant system between european and us gl 1200. i have riden 6 different gl 1200. 3 of the had a sidecar. all of them showed 3 bars at normal driving temp. at stops that are longer than 2-3 minutes or in traffic jam they get to 4 bars and the electric fan starts to work until it goes down to 3 bars. driving over 30° celsius outside temp they show 4 bars and over 35° to 40° celsius the go to 5 bars. i never saw 6 or more bars on a gl 1200. i never had a ride with more than 40° celsius outside temp.
greez
joebarteam
 
Joe you may want to talk to Green's Salvage south of Owensboro, Ky if you are looking for a motor. All of their Gold Wing stuff is in covered garages and they are reasonable.
 
joedrum":4ai8j2wj said:
Short block for hooch bike has been found ...can't wait to get hooch back up to snuff ...
Fantastic! Looking forward to this build account (after the house build, obviously).

Sent from my Le Pan TC802A using Tapatalk
 
:BigGrin: Well the bike is right there in the house ..I’m sure I’ll multi task things to get things done on hooch ...I want to be ready for the riding season ...the bike proved itself big time in my view ...so I’ll be doing some things that will finish things off good ...seems the bike been in testing stage since I first put it together ...like it needs painted buff up good ...and a few upgrades ...but I must admit I like the look it has ...and it rides well for me ...
 
Just found this Thread - So having spent enough time around old K & G Speed Associates getting a big '57 Chrysler HEMI built:
Copper Head Gaskets MUST be run with O-ringed Heads.

O-rings are Copper pressed into the machine cut grooves
and Compress similar to Stock HG Compression Rings.

Stainless Steel is Not Used as it will Cut Into the Copper sheet
gasket.
On High Boost Supercharged Engines - A corresponding
O-ring is cut into the Block - slightly larger so to INTERLOCK the Head O-ring.

Head & Block Surfaces Must Be Machined Flat - Period.

The True Believers then take Valve Lapping Paste & hard flat glass
for a final levelling finish swirl polish.

Head Bolt Locations further away from combustion chambers make O-rings mandatory
when using Solid Copper Gaskets.

Your Mileage May Vary - But Not This Practice.
 
[url=https://www.classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=188170#p188170:mxjbdd17 said:
ekvh » March 18th, 2017, 6:07 pm[/url]":mxjbdd17]
I used 1000 torque settings. The gaskets have to be annealed before use. Propane torch, heat with widest flame and watch color changes until blu/green, then a orange/red. Careful because it can turn into a puddle quickly at this stage. Place in a tray of room temp water. Unlike steel when copper is quickly cooled it gets softer. Search YouTube for vids. It probably tells a lot more than I did. I hung mine on a wire with a second wire on the other side so that when it was hot, I could place it flat and uniformly into a tray of water.

I'll see if I can find the annealing instructions.
Copper Gasket Installation Instructions



While copper is an excellent gasket material, it does require special attention to achieve a long lasting seal. For best results, follow the installation instructions detailed below.

1.​Check the fit of the gasket. If any dimensions are out of tolerance, don’t hesitate to notify us. We at Copper Gaskets Unlimited urge our customers to help us maintain our high standards as to the fit and design of our product.

2.​Make sure all the sealing surfaces are very clean and dry. Once you are ready to install your CGU gaskets, be careful to touch only the edges. An oily fingerprint on the sealing surface can cause gasket failure.

3.​When the surfaces are properly prepared, apply gasket sealer to both sides of your gasket only. We recommend Permatex Ultra Gray3294 sealer or Copper coat. Wait ten minutes for the sealer to cure.

4.​Assemble the engine following OEM specifications, again making sure not to compromise the seal with oil or grease of any kind. During assembly, pay special attention to the condition of the threads on all nuts, bolts and studs. Dirt, rust
or other contamination can cause torque specs to be reached before proper bolt stretching occurs. Torque the head bolts to the recommended setting and in the proper sequences. After assembly, allow the sealer to fully cure for 24 hours, then start the engine and allow it to reach operating temperature. Then shut it down and recheck the torque on all the fasteners. When everything has again cooled, check the torque for a third time.

5.​After the first time out with your machine, recheck the torque to be sure nothing has settled and lessened the pressure on your CGU gasket.

Follow these instructions, and your CGU gasket should last as long as the engine.





COPPER GASKETS UNLIMITED
515 E. Carefree Hwy., #673
Phoenix, AZ 85085
(623) 340-4300
https://www.coppergaskets.us
Check us out!!!

I went to your website but did not see any gaskets for the GL1000 or GL1100. You can reach me at [email protected].

Thanks,
Greg
www.viragocafe.com
 
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