Age related maintenance

[url=https://classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=141194#p141194:3eqokp6g said:

mcgovern61 » Sun Feb 15, 2015 6:41 pm[/url]":3eqokp6g]

I'm a dealer for NAMZ products

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Paul, so now you tell me!!! :whip:

I would have bought them from you!! Spread the word about what else you sell! :yes:

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Aren't you tired of hearing about me? Sometimes I just want to be a regular biker like everyone else :moped:

Have you visited our website? We also offer exhaust building parts.

www.c5ignitions.com and I'm working on a total website makeover right now. Too many products!!

Paul never sleeps.

Ok timing belts changed, old didn't look too bad
All radiator hoses changed, they certainly didn't look 29 yrs old
But the Stator plug....

not so good, bottom side is a little better but wire sheath is discoloring slightly & it's hard as a brick.
I noticed the dielectric grease trick, looks like it would work if I could get it apart...fraid it's welded together with corrosion & I would need new terminals for existing connector, if I can get it apart.
So 3 questions....
Any tricks for getting them to separate, I've tried releasing the catch & pulling but it almost sounds like some faint cracking noise, like plug housing about to disintegrate (I stopped)
Another if I can get apart what terminals fit in the factory housing
Last should I cut out whole mess & use same style plug or a waterproof like Paul talked about?

Thanks
Mike

Best bet is cut that out and use a new connector like Paul sells or your choice. Order of the wires is unimportant. Do use dielectric grease on the new connector.

[url=https://www.classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=141329#p141329:5ou9us2t said:

slabghost » Tue Feb 17, 2015 11:35 am[/url]":5ou9us2t]
Best bet is cut that out and use a new connector like Paul sells or your choice. Order of the wires is unimportant. Do use dielectric grease on the new connector.

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+1
Paul at C5

Yep, you will have to cut that out and throw it away. You will also have to cut some of your wire back a tad since it was overheated (discoloration on the insulation). Mine was pretty bad too. You can also see how it happens! With that connector mounted in the metal holder put there by Honda, it just screams to let water settle in!

Me, I would get a watertight connector set from Paul at C5. I still like the original OEM style connectors (and Paul has them too) because they are real easy to work with!

[url=https://classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=140898#p140898:35xirqiq said:

backyardtrouble » February 12th, 2015, 7:05 am[/url]":35xirqiq]
Replace your Shifter seal, it don't take a lot of time or money.

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The Shifter seal replacement, does it require a complete drain of oil, or does someone know about how much to drain out? Trying to be lazy & not drain it all, just to put back in, oil is fresh and assuming that oil would pour out of where seal goes.

Thanks

I have never drained oil to change a shifter seal but I haven't done one on a GW yet. Even if it does leak it won't be much as it is only what can come by the shaft. Just have everything ready to go and I don't see you having any problems :yes:

[url=https://classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=140887#p140887:1drqqp8l said:

slabghost » February 11th, 2015, 9:30 pm[/url]":1drqqp8l]
I think that about covers it as long as there is no sign of rust. Look over the frame once in a while to catch the rust before it get's too bad.

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I have a couple of spots with rust, but there is no way to get a spray can to them. I've barely gotten in to them to clean as best as can. Any thoughts on what can be done to prevent further rusting, besides a tear down to frame & repaint? Was toying with using stove black

Mike

Can you put one of those tubes in the spray can buttons to reach them?

it would have to be a curly Q. It's from the battery overflow line not installed properly by HONDA BS SHOP. It was too short and wound up on top of swingarm and dribbled/splattered down to centerstand ARG

Get some Hammerite black in a pint can and use cheap artist paintbrushes to reach. Hammerite is made to go right over rust and stop it. Does a pretty good job too.

[url=https://classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=140867#p140867:1rvtfmuv said:

dan filipi » February 11th, 2015, 4:26 pm[/url]":1rvtfmuv]
Rubber gets brittle with age. I'd replace the rubber brake lines with new or better yet, with stainless hoses for some better brake 'feel'.

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So my question regarding brake lines is...for a 1986+ GL1200 Aspy, the reason for specific is several vendors have stated yes, then measure your lines & tell us that. Unless I'm missing something I would think every 1986+ GL1200 Aspy was built the same & if they've done one before they should know, without me taking it apart to measure it.
Who is a vendor that has the stainless for brakes & clutch lines. I'm preferring to keep the lines black, more factory looking IMO.

Thanks for the feedback
Mike

https://randakks.com/products/stainless- ... rake-lines

Here is a link to Randakks page. He now sells the brake line sets. I purchased one and did mine over the winter and the lines are awesome! I put a set on my dads 78 and on my 76 as well. They are a perfect fit. The lines for an 84 are slightly different than in 85-87 apparently because the pull down menu on Randakks page suggests that they are different sets. Beware, I had to pull my fairing off in order to get the lines on. The lines are short and hook up to hard lines on the bike. Taking the fairing off was not very difficult once you see how to do it. Literally a few harness plugs and 4 bolts and off she comes. Just be a aware that you are prolly gonna have to take it off of yours as well to get to them front lines.

On a seperate note, if you are going to take the time to do the lines I would also rebuild the calipers and the cylinders as well. Then you know that from the peddal to the pads everything is good. Takes all the guess work out. Prolly cost about $300 to do the entire system. I have a great vendor who I get all my OEM parts from. Send me a PM if you want his information. I have ordered all of my cylinder repair parts, caliper repair parts, head gaskets, and more from him. I just email him and tell him what I need, he sends me an invoice via email, then I pay him via PayPal. Good prices and fast service for quality OEM Honda line parts.

OK! Today was the test shake down after doing the following:

Replaced the timing belts, all new coolant hoses, new coolant; waited for shifter seal & cleaned stuff, replaced stator connector with trailer plug (water tight and local), used dielectric grease. Actually any plug removed got coated.
Shifter seal arrived a week later & replaced it (minor oil drips while replacing), easy....but! I look over and oil drip has formed at coolant hole :head bang: so order water pump & front cover kit, & wait for those to arrive. The day after I order I'm reading AAple topic about water pump & realize I need 2 more parts, oil pump shaft seal and that 'o' ring (thank you AAple). Those parts arrive & I decide since I have to take radiator back out again, I'll change T'stat also, don't want to do this again! Everything apart again

Found the water pump drain hole plugged tight, coolant could have been trying to leak but would never come out the hole. I wonder as a maintenance item ,should the hole be cleaned out some how and how often?
So...put it back together again :yes:
Then the brake & clutch lines arrive so....more has to come off


I get all the lines replaced (SS with black sheath)and bleed, start putting things back on , had trouble orienting left front brake line connection(separate post). Hind sight one should mount all the brake line stuff completely BEFORE putting fairing on oh2: made it a real pain the other way. The clutch line was replaced from lever to rear as 1 new line. Didn't require any more parts removal other than Tupperware and air filter & cover. All fluids looked really clean, no gunk in lines or reservoirs (maintenance pays off).



Used Hammerite paint and small long brushes to cover the small areas that battery acid took off coating (refer to earlier in post).
Repaired the 2 nuts in 'Airbox B' cover

using the following tools (never found a glue that would stick to the plastic), might be a type of poly???


Used the long screw to fill nut (pre oiled) and see that nut was aligned (not cocked), applied hot glue to perimeter of nut and wood stick to push it into the void around the nut. After cooling unscrewed long screw & repeated for the other one across from the pic. Then used razor blade to trim flush with surface.
Put those parts back together.
Replaced side cover grommets
New oil & filter (guess what no washer on filter or drain plug :evil: (guess who again) HBSP
Bolted, snapped or attached everything back on and that sunny day when I finished it started to rain :cheeky: It let up briefly and took for short spin (less than mile) make sure everything functioned, all ok.
Today B4 rain started again took for a 40 mile run to make sure all good, ran & stopped better than I remember.
Pulled up to park & letting it idle while pulled off gear and.......... :crying: the timing belt tensioners are chirping, only at idle can you hear it, soooo.....on it goes :sensored:

Well wanted to update about the chirping timing belt tensioners. Don't be very quick to change them out, I think? I ordered them & took about 2 weeks before they arrived. During that time I kept riding around some...the more I rode the quieter they became. About 1000 miles later they are making no noise, if a stethoscope is used you can hear them whirring around under the cover, but no chirp or other abnormal noise. They weren't noisy before it was taken down for the rework. The only thing I can surmise is the grease wasn't distributed around the bearing well and driving moved it back where it belonged. Any way if they act up I have the replacements. Anyone else experience the same thing?

I have been reading the various threads on this site, and others as well, and was quite interested in this one because I always get good ideas for making my new to me '85 LTD (bought in October last year) well maintained and a fantastic ride. I have followed a lot of the recommendations found in this thread and on other sites for maintenance to be done when the bike is new to you and the maintenance done is unknown.

I have noticed that there is a lack of mention regarding changing the bearings on the bike - wheels, swing arm and steering stem bearings. I have found that bearings degrade over the years from wear, and a new set makes a significant difference in how the bike handles and rides.

I was surprised to see how small the swing arm bearings are that are used on the 1200, especially since I took my bike over the scales and when "wet", without me on it, it came in at 910 lbs. When I removed these bearings, the tapered race was worn and imprint of the tapered rollers was visible.

Another bearing that I had to replace was the FD pinion shaft bearing. Once I renewed this one, there was almost no shaft vibration when letting off the throttle. Tried finding the pinion shaft bearing on the net, but it appears that this one bearing is proprietary to Honda. All other bearings in the FD can be bought form other suppliers.

I do recommend getting a bearing puller to do these. I tried the "bolt" removal method and was only successful because the inner race on the bearing I was removing came apart after a few tries and this allowed me to get both bearings out.

Only have the steering stem bearings to do and I have some more research to do on this issue. This will probably be relegated to next winter even though I do ride all year round here in Victoria.

Cheers

Steering bearings are an easy upgrade, :yes: with great results. :good:

julimike54 - great idea getting the black SS sheathed brake lines to keep the original intent. Hadn't thought of that, hope you don't mind if I borrow your idea. Too late for my rear brake line, but it is well hid by saddlebags.

Cheers

I don't mind anyone borrowing anything, long as the beers are returned & tools returned, hahaha! Yeah I figured it was down for all that I replaced them all with the black to make it look like it was still factory, but any close look will reveal the smaller diameter.