Head gaskets....part III

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AApple

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Location
Duncanville, Texas
My Bike Models
1981 GL1100 Innerstate("The Turd")SOLD!!, 1996 GL1500 Innerstate
:builder: Ordered a full engine gasket set(again), and it should be here today. Now all I gotta do is find the time, and a place to do it. Seriously considering bringing it out here to the shop and doing the job, 'cause I really don't have the room to do it at home, unless I leave the 1500 outside until the 1100 is back up and running.....which ain't happening. I should be able to tear it down get it all cleaned and reassemble it in one weekend, assuming nothing goes wrong.....which I firmly believe something WILL. :blush:
I have a new torque wrench now too so I'll be fairly confident the heads will be torqued correctly. In the past, I've used my eons old beam style torque wrench.....I'mma tinkin it might be just a wee bit out of calibration by now which sux, since I've only had it since somewhere around 1978 or so.....and i got it new. Should still be good, right? :BigGrin:
I bought one of them fancy pantsy electronical wrenches a while back to replace the beammer. We shall see if it makes a difference.
I still firmly believe that each of my head gasket failures has been due to engine overheat. The thing was runnin fine, and had no issues at all until the one day I forgot to turn the fan on before I hit stop/go traffic, and by the time I remembered it was already too hot. A day or so later is when it started steaming out the pipe again. I think the thermal switch is not working right, or isn't calibrated properly to turn the fan on before the heat gets out of hand, which is why I installed a toggle switch on it before. As long I remembered to flip it on before getting stuck in traffic, the gauge never got past the 1/2 mark. Last time I rode it a few weeks ago, I turned the fan on and just left it on for the whole ride, and the gauge never even got to 1/2.
Anyway.....I'll be ripping into it again soon. This will be the third time for head gaskets on this one...hopefully it will be the last. :beg:
 
I can only add that I was aware of my engine running hot on my trip to Florida 2 summers ago not only because of the temp gauge, but my aftermarket voltmeter was showing me that my fan was running continuously. My fan switch works correctly and kicks in as the temp is just past 1/2 every time.

With the voltmeter, I can also watch the drain on the charging system when the fan runs like that. For me, it is worth it to have the fan switch working normal. Miss turning on the fan and these aluminum engines heat up right fast!

My issue was because of my own stupididy!! I put straight antifreeze in instead of 50/50 by accident........ :oops: :oops: :oops:
 
[url=https://classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=190749#p190749:3ry22p2u said:
Steve83 » Today, 5:34 pm[/url]":3ry22p2u]
We're thinkin' positive for ya, Joel! Wanting the job to go smoothly, and to end up with perfect results!
:good: :good:
 
So I managed to get a little werk done on the tear-down. Engine guards, carb/sparkle plug covers, timing belt covers, & floorboards off, fluids drained. Intake elbows unbolted, exhaust almost off. Did all this in between doin that pesky day job thing. Just need to get the timing marks lined up, finish exhaust removal, and the heads will be ready to unbolt.
3rd time's a charm, right? :beg:


 
Got both heads off now. Pics in gallery. Honestly, I do NOT see any issues with the gaskets sealing around the cylinder at all, but.....these damn gaskets are, as Joe would say, "Goo gaskets". They are de-laminated right between the cylinders just as they have been the other two times I've torn it down. These are OE Honda gaskets, too. Since my issue is getting oil into the coolant, I am now wondering if that dang oil restrictor isn't leaking a little, and causing some damage to the gaskets in that area. The right side gasket does show to be oil soaked at the top. I see NO problems with the stainless steel fire ring around any of the cylinders at all. The rings were sealed well all the way around the cylinders on both sides, unlike the previous times when I could see a definite burnt spot.
Oh well....ya'll take a look at the pics and see if anyone can see anything I am missing....I'm taking a nap.... :lazy:




I'll have to look at the mileage on the bike tomorrow to confirm, these gasket really don't have very many miles on them...
 
Yep....that is the cylinder that was throwing the steam. I too think the piston is steam-washed....just cannot SEE anything on the gasket that indicates a leak in that area. I'll have a little more time today to take a closer look at everything. :thanks:
 
[url=https://classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=191557#p191557:15pwzbja said:
chilidawg » Wed Jun 07, 2017 6:48 pm[/url]":15pwzbja]
Turned out to be a water pump problem that was putting oil in my coolant.

:headscratch: How the heck does that happen?

Mine is also steaming out the right side tailpipe, tho. Strangely enough, the last two times I started & rode it, it did NOT steam any at all. :roll:
 
Well, it's one of the two places in the motor where oil and coolant come into close proximity with each other, the other one of course is the cylinder heads.

There is a large O ring in there that keep the two apart.

Now granted, mine only mixed because the weep hole that is supposed to give you an indication that this is happening, and drain the said oil, had gotten stopped up with dirt, so it mixed past the O ring with the coolant, I had no indication of coolant in the oil, just oil in the coolant. I'm told on here, that that is due to the pressure differences in the two places.

I only know my bike and a water pump rebuild fixed it.

IMHO! I relay to you my experience only! Good luck!
 
I'll be making a feeble attempt to put The Turd back together this weekend. Heads are ready to go back on...just need to do some clean-up werk on the block, and it should be good to go for re-assembly. I just had to wait until the weather turned good and HOT to do this... :Doh2: :heat:
Hopefully I'll be able to get the heads on, and the timing belts & valves adjusted at least. Then I'll just have the exhaust, and engine guards/floorboards to finish. New oil & filter, flush the cooling system, new antifroze, and fire that puppy up!!!

:BigGrin:
 
:rant: :sensored: :Awe: :rant: :sensored: :Awe: :rant: :sensored: :Awe:

I GIVE UP......
 

:sensored:



Busted the friggin right side head tightening the lower bolt around the oil drainback....with a 4" long, 1/4" ratchet & wrist action...... :rant:
Did not break the piece off completely, nor did it crack all the way to the ends. It can be welded, but not gunna do it now. Gotta find a GOOD head to replace it. More time & money.... :sensored:
I went ahead(after calming down) and installed the left side head & exhaust. Can't adjust the valves or install the timing belt until I get the right side head back on.
This dang thing has a curse on it or sumptin...or maybe it's just ME.

If anyone here has a GOOD usable head that doesn't need a ton of $$$$ for repairs, I'm interested. Otherwise, it's off to fleabay for me....
 
[url=https://www.classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=193596#p193596:2x7vld76 said:
joedrum » 27 minutes ago[/url]":2x7vld76]
My my ...I guess you wore out the head with all the gasket changes this bike has had.... :swoon:
Lol.

It won't break there if it's not stressed wrong. Have to be sure the head is seated against the gasket all around it and the locating pins. Tighten all the head bolts progressively to their final torque value.
I have always tightened that little bolt last and never a problem. It's purpose is only for an oil seal.
 
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