Recent content by captaindan

All good points and yes, the reason he changed to DOT 5 was the fact it is not harmful to paint. I'm just not sure you can flush a system good enough without disassembly to use two noncompatible fluids. Seems there is always some residue left somewhere depending on how many times you do it. How...

I'm more of a reader than a poster but I need some expert advice. I recently added a 77gl1000 to my motorcycle inventory. The bike is in original condition. A 7-8 on a scale of 10. 18000 original miles. PO seemed to be knowledgeable on maintenance and actually built many types of bikes over the...

Finally found what I was looking for on Randakks site. The style I have is fastened together with rivets so at least I'm not losing all my marbles. He says to drill out the rivets and tap for screws. There ya go.

Ok, I feel dumb. I bought the Randakk rebuild kit with the pieces for the petcock included. How the heck do you take the petcock apart? Are those screws or some kind of rivets? I know I'm half blind, but mine look smooth and they have never been touched.

I am assuming you bought a complete set of shocks. One thing I do want to do is keep the stock look. Am I correct in thinking you can put new springs in the old housing for less money?

I'm in the process of rebuilding shocks and forks. I'm using OEM parts and the old springs to keep costs down. I know someone will suggest Progressive springs, but honestly I don't want to spend the extra dough for a non daily rider. I fully understand the handling is better, but heck, the stock...

Yes, the tank slides out the back.

One reason I didn't use a battery in line with the charger was since this was new to me, I wanted to use less amps. One statement jumped out at me and that was, it didn't rust overnight, so why try to fix it quickly. Now I don't think a battery would be a problem, but whatever you use, keep an...

The stuff I read could use several different electrolytes. Arm and Hammer washing soda, (laundry) supposedly has less salt content even than baking soda. The salt is what is corrosive. I had not a hint of trouble with baking soda

Here's what I have. If I remember right, I googled rust removal from fuel tank or something like that. One of the hits was for a GW forum, in which had a link to a electrolysis sight.

Mark is right, read up on it. I mixed baking soda about a 1/3 to half a cup with water and mixed it in a bucket. I had a plastic plug, like a lid that I shoved into the fuel sender hole. A small funnel would work. I set the tank upright and poured in the solution, or "electrolyte" and filled it...

I can't really attest to the vinegar. I soaked my fuel cap in it and with a little brushing here and there it worked great. I had two fuel guages with one being a little rustier than the other. I soaked the worst one in vinegar for several days with some luck, but not to my satisfaction. I used...

Frame is powder coated. Now waiting on some parts to get it back together. I do need some help in figuring out the rear shocks. Are you guys replacing the entire shock with a progressive unit, or rebuilding with progressive parts. I would like to keep the stock look of the shock if I can...

:smilie_happy: Amen brother. I would rather have it hot than that frozen stuff. Everything takes 3x longer to do in the cold. Although in the cold, the grain dust falling off the combine into your face doesn't stick as bad if your not sweating. :fiddle: I agree, working on these wings is...

yea Joe, and why is it that in the middle of the field breakdowns are never in 70 degree weather with a nice breeze. Well, maybe up north there. :smilie_happy: