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To close the loop on my issue, here's what happened. I brought the bike to Bear's Cycle in IL. Bear specializes in GL's and he rebuilds racks of carbs on a daily basis for customers. He could not find a problem with my #3 carb. In the end, he replaced the carb body and used all of my parts in...

Well, the carbs from my 75 just went into my 76 and the 76 starts and runs SO FREAKING GOOD. It revs better and idles better. It's crappy out so I won't ride it but at least I know it's definitely a carb issue with the 76. I'm bringing the bike to a different Randakk approved carb guy and will...

They are actually still pretty pliable. I like to warm them up on a radiator before installing them, and I'm able to get the clamps nice and tight. I believe that they are sealing well.

Just spent the last 3 hours pulling the carbs again and swapping all of the internals between the #1 and #3 carbs. The behavior remains with #3. I was hoping it would move to carb #1, indicating something amiss with a float, jet, etc. I weighed the floats while they were out, and they're both 12...

It starts and runs nicely but the sweaty intake tube bugs me because this was a frame off restoration with a lot of money invested, and I'd like it to come out perfect. I've tried the screws in various positions with no change to the #3 cylinder behavior on choke. My carb rebuilder said if it...

Thanks for sharing. I may look into purchasing one. There's a different Randakk approved rebuilder 2 hours from me and I may see if he's got one and wants to go through these again. I've removed and reinstalled the carbs 4 times now and am just about bored with it. :D

Seems like it to me as well. #3 is where the choke cable attaches, and when the carbs are out, the mechanism and linkages all appear to be moving freely and together. I'm stumped.

They were professionally rebuilt and #3 is not firing on choke despite the rebuild. That's why I'm messing with them. Everything else is new, and since #3 doesn't fire while on choke, there's something going on with that carb.

I don't believe the carbs are interchangeable, but I do appreciate the suggestion. I've blasted every passage and orifice with carb cleaner and compressed air, and I believe they are 100% clear.

I may not be as clear as I should have been. My comment about holding it at 3500 RPM was to emphasize that off choke it runs on all 4 cylinders. Applying the choke (no throttle), the RPM's raise to 3500 RPM and #3 cools down. So, it's not related to RPM, it's related to the choke being applied...

I have a 76 GL1000 that I'm trying to finish up. It has only 7500 miles on the clock and sat for many years. This was a frame off restoration but I did not see a need to go into the engine, aside from valve lash adjustments and timing belts. The carbs were restored by a Randakk approved carb...