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Two Wheel Magazine 1975- Honda's GL1000, The Future
Cycle Illustrated, Nov. 1975- 2 Big Ones From Honda
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GL1000- Important GL1000 Service Reminder (1 Page) 6-13-1975
SL #108 Tire and Wheel Rim Matching Information 6-20-75 (7 pages)
Service Tools Newsletter 7-31-75 (2 pages)
SB 1000 #3 Pressurised Cooling System Tester 10-10-75 (3 pages)
SB 1000 #1 Cylinder Head Core Plug Leakage- Revised 7-9-76 (3 pages)
SL #117 Exhaust Pipe and Muffler Paint Damage 9-30-76 (1 page)
SL #118 Instrument Troubleshooting 10-27-76 (5 pages)
PB 1000-2 Changes to Clutch Components 11-3-76 (1 page)
PB 1000-3 Changes to Right Front Engine Cover 1-5-77 (1 page)
SB 1000 #11 Final Drive Gear Case Cover Change 10-15-77 (1 page)
SB 1000 #12 New Main Bearing Caps 11-23-77 (1 page)
SB 1000 #13 Recall to Replace Rear Brake Pads 3-21-78 (5 pages)
SB 1000 #14 Cylinder Head Bolt Torque Change 11-8-78 (1 page)
GL1200
Special Consumer Report: 1984 and 1985 GW Rear Hub
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Classic Goldwing Technical Forums
Goldwing Customization & Tricks
81 1200 Project
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<blockquote data-quote="brianinpa" data-source="post: 170807" data-attributes="member: 2394"><p>I proved a couple things to myself this afternoon.</p><p></p><p>1 - With the rubber removed from the horn, I can tighten flexible PVC to the lip that is left on the horn. Even though there is only 3/8" protruding, there is enough to get a tight grip, so if I have to go this route, it will work, and this is the gap that I am going to have to fill.</p><p></p><p>[GALLERY=media, 28824][/GALLERY]</p><p></p><p>2 - By centering the manifold between both sides and clamping it in place, there is more aluminum protruding into the intake horn rubber than I first thought would be. Both runners have 1/2" of aluminum that is not painted so you can see exactly how much is in the horn rubber.</p><p></p><p>[GALLERY=media, 28825][/GALLERY]</p><p></p><p>In addition, this shot shows just how far it is sticking inside. The runner is starting to touch the second rib.</p><p></p><p>[GALLERY=media, 28826][/GALLERY]</p><p></p><p>3 - Don't try this at home as I am trained in the art of caveman tech, but this manifold clamped in place so well that I could actually lift the entire motor by the manifold. :shock: </p><p></p><p>[GALLERY=media, 28827][/GALLERY]</p><p></p><p>My first attempt with the single carb is going to be just like you see it pictured here. If I have problems, well then I will move on to try something else.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="brianinpa, post: 170807, member: 2394"] I proved a couple things to myself this afternoon. 1 - With the rubber removed from the horn, I can tighten flexible PVC to the lip that is left on the horn. Even though there is only 3/8" protruding, there is enough to get a tight grip, so if I have to go this route, it will work, and this is the gap that I am going to have to fill. [GALLERY=media, 28824][/GALLERY] 2 - By centering the manifold between both sides and clamping it in place, there is more aluminum protruding into the intake horn rubber than I first thought would be. Both runners have 1/2" of aluminum that is not painted so you can see exactly how much is in the horn rubber. [GALLERY=media, 28825][/GALLERY] In addition, this shot shows just how far it is sticking inside. The runner is starting to touch the second rib. [GALLERY=media, 28826][/GALLERY] 3 - Don't try this at home as I am trained in the art of caveman tech, but this manifold clamped in place so well that I could actually lift the entire motor by the manifold. :shock: [GALLERY=media, 28827][/GALLERY] My first attempt with the single carb is going to be just like you see it pictured here. If I have problems, well then I will move on to try something else. [/QUOTE]
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Goldwing Customization & Tricks
81 1200 Project
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