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Classic Goldwing Technical Forums
Goldwing Customization & Tricks
'84 1200 engine for a '82 GW
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<blockquote data-quote="canuckxxxx" data-source="post: 183419" data-attributes="member: 2409"><p>So I probably won't get those rings until the end of the week so I thought I would go ahead and hone the cylinders. The way I am doing it is to leave some of the stuff like the transmission main shaft gear and the primary chain tensioner in place and cover them by stuffing plastic bags over and around them. </p><p>[GALLERY=media, 29908][/GALLERY]</p><p>The main bearing saddles in the right side case I sealed off with duct tape (I'm Canadian eh). First I cleaned the saddles with laquer thinner and then carefully ran the duct tape. Workmanship is the key here; make sure the tape sticks all the way along the saddle surface and up onto the flat parts, then trim the sides.</p><p>[GALLERY=media, 29909][/GALLERY]</p><p>On the top end of the block I followed the same method and covered the tops of the cylinders with duct tape and cut out the cylinder holes with a sharp Exacto knife.</p><p>[GALLERY=media, 29901][/GALLERY]</p><p>I set the crankcase halves up on the wood blocks and put a pan under to catch the Varsol I use to wash the cylinders down as I hone. It's handy to have the Varsol in a can with a paint brush so you can pull the hone out every 20 or 30 up-down stroke to wash the cylinder down. After about 100 strokes wipe the cylinder down with a clean rag and look closely with a strong light. To get a 45º cross-hatch you have to run the drill fairly slow and move up and down smoothly.</p><p>[GALLERY=media, 29906][/GALLERY]</p><p>This is what it looks like. Any of you guys with experience please comment on the honing. I can easily do more if needed.</p><p></p><p>Brian</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="canuckxxxx, post: 183419, member: 2409"] So I probably won't get those rings until the end of the week so I thought I would go ahead and hone the cylinders. The way I am doing it is to leave some of the stuff like the transmission main shaft gear and the primary chain tensioner in place and cover them by stuffing plastic bags over and around them. [GALLERY=media, 29908][/GALLERY] The main bearing saddles in the right side case I sealed off with duct tape (I'm Canadian eh). First I cleaned the saddles with laquer thinner and then carefully ran the duct tape. Workmanship is the key here; make sure the tape sticks all the way along the saddle surface and up onto the flat parts, then trim the sides. [GALLERY=media, 29909][/GALLERY] On the top end of the block I followed the same method and covered the tops of the cylinders with duct tape and cut out the cylinder holes with a sharp Exacto knife. [GALLERY=media, 29901][/GALLERY] I set the crankcase halves up on the wood blocks and put a pan under to catch the Varsol I use to wash the cylinders down as I hone. It's handy to have the Varsol in a can with a paint brush so you can pull the hone out every 20 or 30 up-down stroke to wash the cylinder down. After about 100 strokes wipe the cylinder down with a clean rag and look closely with a strong light. To get a 45º cross-hatch you have to run the drill fairly slow and move up and down smoothly. [GALLERY=media, 29906][/GALLERY] This is what it looks like. Any of you guys with experience please comment on the honing. I can easily do more if needed. Brian [/QUOTE]
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Goldwing Customization & Tricks
'84 1200 engine for a '82 GW
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