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Two Wheel Magazine 1975- Honda's GL1000, The Future
Cycle Illustrated, Nov. 1975- 2 Big Ones From Honda
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GL1000- Important GL1000 Service Reminder (1 Page) 6-13-1975
SL #108 Tire and Wheel Rim Matching Information 6-20-75 (7 pages)
Service Tools Newsletter 7-31-75 (2 pages)
SB 1000 #3 Pressurised Cooling System Tester 10-10-75 (3 pages)
SB 1000 #1 Cylinder Head Core Plug Leakage- Revised 7-9-76 (3 pages)
SL #117 Exhaust Pipe and Muffler Paint Damage 9-30-76 (1 page)
SL #118 Instrument Troubleshooting 10-27-76 (5 pages)
PB 1000-2 Changes to Clutch Components 11-3-76 (1 page)
PB 1000-3 Changes to Right Front Engine Cover 1-5-77 (1 page)
SB 1000 #11 Final Drive Gear Case Cover Change 10-15-77 (1 page)
SB 1000 #12 New Main Bearing Caps 11-23-77 (1 page)
SB 1000 #13 Recall to Replace Rear Brake Pads 3-21-78 (5 pages)
SB 1000 #14 Cylinder Head Bolt Torque Change 11-8-78 (1 page)
GL1200
Special Consumer Report: 1984 and 1985 GW Rear Hub
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Classic Goldwing Technical Forums
Restorations
Daeouse's GL1200 Freebie Restoration
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<blockquote data-quote="Rednaxs60" data-source="post: 200708" data-attributes="member: 4617"><p>Nice to have the lights come on when you turn the key. Have to agree with the collective, need to start the bike first. Once it is started check the condition of the alternator unit - the bike has a three piece alternator unit consisting of an internal rotor/stator assembly (2 pieces) and an external combined regulator/rectifier unit, make sure the rotor/stator assembly is operating correctly. You can test the RR early without the engine started by disconnecting it and doing the checks as per the service manual. Once you confirm a good alternator unit, check for operating amps. Your rotor stator assembly is approximately 350 watt unit and at max power (5000 RPM) has an amperage output of approximately 25 amps. I would estimate that your bike needs approximately 15 to 20 amps to operate without the add-ons. Lots of power to support this when at higher RPMs, but at the lower RPM levels, the electrical system voltage will drop. </p><p></p><p>The mechanical maintenance is very straight forward. Most concerns when bringing an older vintage bike back to life that I have read about tend to revolve around the electrical system, and carbs. Get these two items right and you will have a great ride.</p><p></p><p>Good luck. Cheers</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Rednaxs60, post: 200708, member: 4617"] Nice to have the lights come on when you turn the key. Have to agree with the collective, need to start the bike first. Once it is started check the condition of the alternator unit - the bike has a three piece alternator unit consisting of an internal rotor/stator assembly (2 pieces) and an external combined regulator/rectifier unit, make sure the rotor/stator assembly is operating correctly. You can test the RR early without the engine started by disconnecting it and doing the checks as per the service manual. Once you confirm a good alternator unit, check for operating amps. Your rotor stator assembly is approximately 350 watt unit and at max power (5000 RPM) has an amperage output of approximately 25 amps. I would estimate that your bike needs approximately 15 to 20 amps to operate without the add-ons. Lots of power to support this when at higher RPMs, but at the lower RPM levels, the electrical system voltage will drop. The mechanical maintenance is very straight forward. Most concerns when bringing an older vintage bike back to life that I have read about tend to revolve around the electrical system, and carbs. Get these two items right and you will have a great ride. Good luck. Cheers [/QUOTE]
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Classic Goldwing Technical Forums
Restorations
Daeouse's GL1200 Freebie Restoration
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