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Gallery Index & Tech Ref
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Two Wheel Magazine 1975- Honda's GL1000, The Future
Cycle Illustrated, Nov. 1975- 2 Big Ones From Honda
1977 Model GL1000 Setup Instructions
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GL1000- Important GL1000 Service Reminder (1 Page) 6-13-1975
SL #108 Tire and Wheel Rim Matching Information 6-20-75 (7 pages)
Service Tools Newsletter 7-31-75 (2 pages)
SB 1000 #3 Pressurised Cooling System Tester 10-10-75 (3 pages)
SB 1000 #1 Cylinder Head Core Plug Leakage- Revised 7-9-76 (3 pages)
SL #117 Exhaust Pipe and Muffler Paint Damage 9-30-76 (1 page)
SL #118 Instrument Troubleshooting 10-27-76 (5 pages)
PB 1000-2 Changes to Clutch Components 11-3-76 (1 page)
PB 1000-3 Changes to Right Front Engine Cover 1-5-77 (1 page)
SB 1000 #11 Final Drive Gear Case Cover Change 10-15-77 (1 page)
SB 1000 #12 New Main Bearing Caps 11-23-77 (1 page)
SB 1000 #13 Recall to Replace Rear Brake Pads 3-21-78 (5 pages)
SB 1000 #14 Cylinder Head Bolt Torque Change 11-8-78 (1 page)
GL1200
Special Consumer Report: 1984 and 1985 GW Rear Hub
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Hello. My first Goldwing 1978 GL1000
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<blockquote data-quote="pidjones" data-source="post: 207265" data-attributes="member: 3026"><p>Get a manual (you need one anyway, and can download a pdf of one from several sites for free) and learn to change the pads yourself - it is very easy. The only tools that you will need is a 6mm hex wrench (a 3/8" drive socket type and ratchet works best), a ~6" C clamp, and a turkey baster. Supplies are brake pads, gloves, brake fluid, rags, and plastic trash bags. Two Allen bolts removed on each caliper allows you to remove the caliper from the pad carrier. Then the pads can be slid out and replaced with new ones. Don't loose the thin metal shims, spings, and caps! They are easily misplaced and made of unobtainium. You are supposed to be able to press the pistons back into the calipers by hand. Use the C clamp if you can't. Use the turkey baster (don't borrow the wife's!!!) to keep from overflowing the reservoir. Do one caliper at a time. Cover everything that you don't want the paint removed from with trash bags. You can tape them in place with painter's tape. The '78 is one of the easiest to replace pads on, and the pads are pretty cheap. All USA-sold pads have been asbestos free since tbe mid 90's.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="pidjones, post: 207265, member: 3026"] Get a manual (you need one anyway, and can download a pdf of one from several sites for free) and learn to change the pads yourself - it is very easy. The only tools that you will need is a 6mm hex wrench (a 3/8" drive socket type and ratchet works best), a ~6" C clamp, and a turkey baster. Supplies are brake pads, gloves, brake fluid, rags, and plastic trash bags. Two Allen bolts removed on each caliper allows you to remove the caliper from the pad carrier. Then the pads can be slid out and replaced with new ones. Don't loose the thin metal shims, spings, and caps! They are easily misplaced and made of unobtainium. You are supposed to be able to press the pistons back into the calipers by hand. Use the C clamp if you can't. Use the turkey baster (don't borrow the wife's!!!) to keep from overflowing the reservoir. Do one caliper at a time. Cover everything that you don't want the paint removed from with trash bags. You can tape them in place with painter's tape. The '78 is one of the easiest to replace pads on, and the pads are pretty cheap. All USA-sold pads have been asbestos free since tbe mid 90's. [/QUOTE]
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Hello. My first Goldwing 1978 GL1000
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