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Two Wheel Magazine 1975- Honda's GL1000, The Future
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GL1000- Important GL1000 Service Reminder (1 Page) 6-13-1975
SL #108 Tire and Wheel Rim Matching Information 6-20-75 (7 pages)
Service Tools Newsletter 7-31-75 (2 pages)
SB 1000 #3 Pressurised Cooling System Tester 10-10-75 (3 pages)
SB 1000 #1 Cylinder Head Core Plug Leakage- Revised 7-9-76 (3 pages)
SL #117 Exhaust Pipe and Muffler Paint Damage 9-30-76 (1 page)
SL #118 Instrument Troubleshooting 10-27-76 (5 pages)
PB 1000-2 Changes to Clutch Components 11-3-76 (1 page)
PB 1000-3 Changes to Right Front Engine Cover 1-5-77 (1 page)
SB 1000 #11 Final Drive Gear Case Cover Change 10-15-77 (1 page)
SB 1000 #12 New Main Bearing Caps 11-23-77 (1 page)
SB 1000 #13 Recall to Replace Rear Brake Pads 3-21-78 (5 pages)
SB 1000 #14 Cylinder Head Bolt Torque Change 11-8-78 (1 page)
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Special Consumer Report: 1984 and 1985 GW Rear Hub
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Classic Goldwing Technical Forums
General Classic Goldwing Technical Forum
Painting your Bike
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<blockquote data-quote="OldWrench" data-source="post: 2628" data-attributes="member: 232"><p>Wow, didn’t expect so many nice responses. I’ll gladly do what I can to show the techniques that I use and the most economical way to come up with a nice paint job. It does require a lot of work but the end result if done properly is well worth it and very rewarding. The last bike I did was a 1500 GW. </p><p></p><p>As for questions, I’m happy to answer any you folks may have. I will be the first to admit that I don’t have all the answers but I know where to find the ones I don’t. I don’t paint for a profession but grew up in the business. </p><p></p><p>As for painting clear coat. If you have a vehicle that has a two stage paint (base coat clear coat) on it and the clear coat is peeling and the base coat is in tack and good you can re coat it. If you have an enamel paint you can not put clear coat over it. However my preference would be to prep the area and shoot fresh base coat and clear coat. If you have a metallic base coat and the clear coat has peeled off of it don’t sand the base, it will cause the metallic to streak, you should re shoot the base.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="OldWrench, post: 2628, member: 232"] Wow, didn’t expect so many nice responses. I’ll gladly do what I can to show the techniques that I use and the most economical way to come up with a nice paint job. It does require a lot of work but the end result if done properly is well worth it and very rewarding. The last bike I did was a 1500 GW. As for questions, I’m happy to answer any you folks may have. I will be the first to admit that I don’t have all the answers but I know where to find the ones I don’t. I don’t paint for a profession but grew up in the business. As for painting clear coat. If you have a vehicle that has a two stage paint (base coat clear coat) on it and the clear coat is peeling and the base coat is in tack and good you can re coat it. If you have an enamel paint you can not put clear coat over it. However my preference would be to prep the area and shoot fresh base coat and clear coat. If you have a metallic base coat and the clear coat has peeled off of it don’t sand the base, it will cause the metallic to streak, you should re shoot the base. [/QUOTE]
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Classic Goldwing Technical Forums
General Classic Goldwing Technical Forum
Painting your Bike
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