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Gallery Index & Tech Ref
Goldwing Trivia
Goldwing- The First 20 Years
From Japan to USA
Goldwing Magazine Articles
Two Wheel Magazine 1975- Honda's GL1000, The Future
Cycle Illustrated, Nov. 1975- 2 Big Ones From Honda
1977 Model GL1000 Setup Instructions
Owners Manuals
GL1000
1975 GL1000
1978 GL1000
GL1100
1980 GL1100 Standard
1981 GL1100 Interstate
1982 GL1100 Aspencade
1982 GL1100 Interstate
1982 GL1100 Standard
1983 GL1100 Aspencade
1983 GL1100 Interstate
GL1200
1984 GL1200 Standard
1986 GL1200 Interstate
1987 GL1200 Aspencade
GL1500
1987 GL1200 Aspencade
Service Bulletins and Recalls- All Models
GL1000
GL1000- Important GL1000 Service Reminder (1 Page) 6-13-1975
SL #108 Tire and Wheel Rim Matching Information 6-20-75 (7 pages)
Service Tools Newsletter 7-31-75 (2 pages)
SB 1000 #3 Pressurised Cooling System Tester 10-10-75 (3 pages)
SB 1000 #1 Cylinder Head Core Plug Leakage- Revised 7-9-76 (3 pages)
SL #117 Exhaust Pipe and Muffler Paint Damage 9-30-76 (1 page)
SL #118 Instrument Troubleshooting 10-27-76 (5 pages)
PB 1000-2 Changes to Clutch Components 11-3-76 (1 page)
PB 1000-3 Changes to Right Front Engine Cover 1-5-77 (1 page)
SB 1000 #11 Final Drive Gear Case Cover Change 10-15-77 (1 page)
SB 1000 #12 New Main Bearing Caps 11-23-77 (1 page)
SB 1000 #13 Recall to Replace Rear Brake Pads 3-21-78 (5 pages)
SB 1000 #14 Cylinder Head Bolt Torque Change 11-8-78 (1 page)
GL1200
Special Consumer Report: 1984 and 1985 GW Rear Hub
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She Runs! (1956 Chris Craft that is...)
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<blockquote data-quote="mcgovern61" data-source="post: 205230" data-attributes="member: 59"><p>We had her out a few times after the carb rebuild. Interesting fact. The float needle is stainless steel with no rubber tip. The rebuild kit came with a new float needle that has a Viton rubber tip. When I installed it and checked the float level I noticed the tip would stick and floats would not drop right away even with blowing a touch of air in the fuel intake pipe. I cleaned the new tip a bit and it still stuck, but not too hard. I installed it hoping the fuel pump pressure would be enough to push it down.</p><p></p><p>After installing everything, she started right up. With the initial settings, it took 2 hours to get the idle to settle, but she still idles too high. I adjusted the throttle rod (that's right, no cables on this puppy, all mechanical rods and levers).</p><p></p><p>Idle was still a bit high. Too high to really set or check the timing. We went out for short trips and at upper RPM's she moves along at about 21 knots average (about 23 MPH) at full throttle. BUT, when you pull the throttle back quickly, she will stall and fight to restart. :rant: :cheeky:</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="mcgovern61, post: 205230, member: 59"] We had her out a few times after the carb rebuild. Interesting fact. The float needle is stainless steel with no rubber tip. The rebuild kit came with a new float needle that has a Viton rubber tip. When I installed it and checked the float level I noticed the tip would stick and floats would not drop right away even with blowing a touch of air in the fuel intake pipe. I cleaned the new tip a bit and it still stuck, but not too hard. I installed it hoping the fuel pump pressure would be enough to push it down. After installing everything, she started right up. With the initial settings, it took 2 hours to get the idle to settle, but she still idles too high. I adjusted the throttle rod (that's right, no cables on this puppy, all mechanical rods and levers). Idle was still a bit high. Too high to really set or check the timing. We went out for short trips and at upper RPM's she moves along at about 21 knots average (about 23 MPH) at full throttle. BUT, when you pull the throttle back quickly, she will stall and fight to restart. :rant: :cheeky: [/QUOTE]
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