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Classic Goldwing Technical Forums
Engine & Fuel System Modifications
the PVC manifold didn't go so well so now I'm making one from copper plumbing parts
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<blockquote data-quote="chuck c" data-source="post: 134743" data-attributes="member: 2907"><p>I didn't get as far as I'd hoped today but I'll show what I did. I discovered there's just enough clearance to do without the straight coupler between the elbow and the intake.</p><p>[ATTACH=full]10218[/ATTACH]</p><p>The pvc is only a millimeter or two above the screw head that holds the coolant tubes, the one in almost the center of the engine. It drops the carb by 2 or 3"' from my first one using the stock intake horns. It should be a bit easier to work on the carb.</p><p>The carb won't fit the normal way, the bowl is touching the frame. I guess it could be nudged 1/4" forward to clear it but there's no need. I'll just spin it around as many others have. The manifold looks really good. I did trim about 1/2" off two legs of the 5-way and two of the 45s but I've still got a solid 5/8" or maybe 3/4" of straight pipe to connect them. That's plenty.</p><p></p><p>The elbow ID is a great match to the Mikuni intake.</p><p>[ATTACH=full]10217[/ATTACH]</p><p></p><p>Centered. It seems best adjusting the lengths of the two runners I had to cut (#2 and #3) and once those are good adjusting #1 and #4. I quit for the day because it was too darned cold.</p><p></p><p>I got larger hose clamps for the intakes and one for the carb flange. I had to bend the carb linkage out just a little bit to clear the flange. I'll have to put the flange on the carb first, drop it on, then tighten the hose clamp. I also got new hardware the right length for the Mikinis.</p><p>[ATTACH=full]10216[/ATTACH]</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="chuck c, post: 134743, member: 2907"] I didn't get as far as I'd hoped today but I'll show what I did. I discovered there's just enough clearance to do without the straight coupler between the elbow and the intake. [ATTACH type="full" alt="141102_0003.jpg"]10218._xfImport[/ATTACH] The pvc is only a millimeter or two above the screw head that holds the coolant tubes, the one in almost the center of the engine. It drops the carb by 2 or 3"' from my first one using the stock intake horns. It should be a bit easier to work on the carb. The carb won't fit the normal way, the bowl is touching the frame. I guess it could be nudged 1/4" forward to clear it but there's no need. I'll just spin it around as many others have. The manifold looks really good. I did trim about 1/2" off two legs of the 5-way and two of the 45s but I've still got a solid 5/8" or maybe 3/4" of straight pipe to connect them. That's plenty. The elbow ID is a great match to the Mikuni intake. [ATTACH type="full" alt="141102_0000.jpg"]10217._xfImport[/ATTACH] Centered. It seems best adjusting the lengths of the two runners I had to cut (#2 and #3) and once those are good adjusting #1 and #4. I quit for the day because it was too darned cold. I got larger hose clamps for the intakes and one for the carb flange. I had to bend the carb linkage out just a little bit to clear the flange. I'll have to put the flange on the carb first, drop it on, then tighten the hose clamp. I also got new hardware the right length for the Mikinis. [ATTACH type="full" alt="141102_0002.jpg"]10216._xfImport[/ATTACH] [/QUOTE]
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Classic Goldwing Technical Forums
Engine & Fuel System Modifications
the PVC manifold didn't go so well so now I'm making one from copper plumbing parts
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