Going SC

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gmartin

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 17, 2015
Messages
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Location
Granger, IN
Now that I am done with chemo (4 yrs worth) I want to get the Wing straightened out. I've had the carbs rebuilt the last two years and they never have ran good since. I went thru them this winter and double checked floats, etc, but would sync good but never run right at the high end. So entering the SC world.

So far, I've gotten the exact carb that Dan got and the VW center mount manifold. I do have a question, probably one of many down this road :) .
So the bottom of our existing manifold elbows are right around 1.3 inches. Has anyone tried using runners that same diameter?

Schedule 80 SS pipe is the same ID and the OD will fit the existing rubber boots. Just curious on thoughts.
 
No but,congrats on being done with chemo.hope the big C stays away

Sent from my LM-X420 using Tapatalk
 
[url=https://classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=221998#p221998:2aae52yv said:
Dusterdude » Today, 3:42 pm[/url]":2aae52yv]
No but,congrats on being done with chemo.hope the big C stays away

Sent from my LM-X420 using Tapatalk

Thanks DD!

I was doing some reading today and it appears a 1" pinch point close to the carb is recommended. With the EMPI manifold it has a clean ID bored in it approix. .70" deep and around 1.45" ID. Thinking of having a machinist friend turn me (4) inserts for this spot that taper to the 1" dia. opening. Then using the schedule 80 SS pipe with an ID of 1.3" would hold the inserts in place and hook up to the existing elbows. We will see. :)
 
Hi and congrats ...I can't remember all the numbers but I think the VW carb mount is 1 1/4 "ID .. I USED 1 1/2" OD stainless steel grab bars as my runners with 1 1/2" radiator hose as connectors ....to VW CARB MOUNT ...I used 2 18" grabars from home depot for runners ...I've ran my set up both ways necked down to one barrel size and on VW CARB MOUNT ..I use just the VW Carb mount ..MY BIKE. Is way from stock set up in the motor and ignition but it runs extremely fast ...been set up this way long time ..good luck with yours ...
 
[url=https://classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=222001#p222001:t7f62cdv said:
joedrum » Yesterday, 6:23 pm[/url]":t7f62cdv]
Hi and congrats ...I can't remember all the numbers but I think the VW carb mount is 1 1/4 "ID .. I USED 1 1/2" OD stainless steel grab bars as my runners with 1 1/2" radiator hose as connectors ....to VW CARB MOUNT ...I used 2 18" grabars from home depot for runners ...I've ran my set up both ways necked down to one barrel size and on VW CARB MOUNT ..I use just the VW Carb mount ..MY BIKE. Is way from stock set up in the motor and ignition but it runs extremely fast ...been set up this way long time ..good luck with yours ...

Thanks Joe!
I saw on one post that you left the anti-diesel solenoid on, am I correct? I could see where that might be useful.
Also as I start to plug carb holes, what is your favorite epoxy to use that is fuel resistant?

Thanks,
Greg
 
I am going to try to remember to document as much as I can.

The offending unit:
IMG_20210425_100031371.jpg


The Wing looks a little bare :)
IMG_20210425_100049849.jpg

IMG_20210425_100058671.jpg

IMG_20210425_100114081.jpg
 
Now that the carb holes are opened up, time to study what is not needed and can come off or gets plugged:
Got some work to do :)
IMG_20210424_143009877.jpg

IMG_20210424_143023239.jpg

IMG_20210424_143047648.jpg

IMG_20210424_143054655.jpg

IMG_20210424_180032313.jpg

IMG_20210424_180044384.jpg

IMG_20210424_180054078.jpg

IMG_20210424_180101444.jpg
 
After doing some measuring:
IMG_20210425_130701867.jpg

IMG_20210425_130710873.jpg

IMG_20210425_130737505.jpg


I am thinking that some metal chokes like this, will insert into the intake manifold. Since the pipe I want to use is 1.3" ID it should hold the insert in. Sort of like this:
Manifold choke.jpg


Then seal the joints with 1.5" Radiator hose pcs.
 
On the old carbs witch mine was the anti Riesling device really did cut off fuel flow witch is a good thing cause it had a rubber pointed stopper that really shut the gas off ..the newer carbs have some BS METAL THING ...that doesn't shut it off good ...the deal is the idle off idle cirquit will siphon the gas bowl down to the idle Circuit pull.level about 1/2 full bowl ...I use a electric fuel pump that switched and let run till it dies on turn off ...in my many moments of crazy I screwed up my old school cut off valve and have never seen another one like it ..I say the one you got is of last production and won't stop bleed down ...there are many tricks that need to be done on my bike to get this carb to work ...but I'm no expert on setting one up on stock motor lol....the deal is to get these EPA carbs more like a strait carb and completely adjustable ...the biggest problem for me was the idle cirquit being to much and it's combined to the off idle Circuit ...the non adjustable power valve ....the secondary throttle plate adjustment ...and throttle plates adjusted on there shafts ...on my bike I can't see any other type carb operation that works better than these carbs ...but it sure takes getting to know them and nodding them to work ...I've never come across a oldwing that I'm worried about that includes supercharge ones...as I've said many times I am the weakest link on the bike
 
Thanks Joe for the info!
My guy is making the chokes this week. The cool thing is they just slide in, so if I don't like them, he can turn them down again so the make a smooth transition form the plenum to my runners.

Making progress last night stripping the carb. The choke housing is off, the vent valve is off and the various vacuum connection are pulled. Going to pick up some epoxy tonight.
 
So finally got time to make a little progress on the SC.
I ordered the right size plugs for the idle fuel shut-off solenoid hole, the fuel bowl vent solenoid hole, vent pipe holes.
FYI: If you plug them and epoxy the holes you will need the following:
(1) Set Screw 10MM X 1.00X 8
(1) Set Screw 8MM X 1.00X 5
(1) Set Screw 12mm X1.00 X 8

I ordered mine online from BelMetric.com and had them in a few days. Used JB Weld on the treads before inserting. I tested and you can remove them if ever needed.
Carb Plugs.jpg

Carb Plugs 2.jpg
 
I also got my chokes. They really are not what has been called chokes in the past. These are black nylon. Inside each of the Empi Manifold ports they are machined to a larger diameter. These pcs match the Empi Manifold ID before the machining and match the ID of the stainless pipe I am using for a smooth transfer of air.

EMPI Manifold view inside the ports:
EMPI Manifold Ports.jpg


Inserts (Chokes) Side View
Inserts1.jpg


Inserts (Inside Manifold Side)
Inserts2.jpg


Inserts (Side to the Pipe Runner)
Inserts3.jpg
 
Here is the Stainless Schedule 80 Pipe I am using. Fits the factory elbows perfectly and matches up to the manifold well also:

Pipe:
SS 80 Pipe.jpg


Starting Mock-up; :)
Starting.jpg


Starting2.jpg
 
Finally got back to the bike tonight. Runners complete and installed.
Linkage connected.

Manifold 2.jpg


Manifold3.jpg



Getting a surge at idle.
Got too excited, mounted the carb without removing the mixture plug. Will need to pull carb tomorrow and remove it. Off of throttle, it is hanging up on RPMS, then slowly coming down. I believe I read something about that, I will need to find that info.

Pleased that it runs and no vacuum leaks :) Now the fun adjusting and tweaking.

 
This morning, I remembered reading that someone tried and switched the idle jets side to side. I tried that and the running of the bike was a lot smoother. I have confirmed my jet sizes are .050, .060, .180, .220. I switched the .050 and .060 and got those results.
After things cool down, I'll pull the carb and drill out the mixture plug. Debating on disabling the power enrichment valve. If I remember JoeDrum disabled his and got the idle to return back quicker.
 
Put the jets back where they were originally. Then adjusted the idle mixture screw to the best running spot. Also epoxied the power enrichment valve.

It now drops back to idle better but not quick enough yet. I also think that it sounds like it is loading up. It will idle for a bit at 1000 RPM, but then get a surge to 2000 RPM, then slowly drop back down.

Latest video:

 
This is like going down memory lane...my guess is this is gas building up and pooling on the low parts of the the throttle plates and then getting suck through ...causing the surge ...both plates can do this ...there a adjustment on secondary to open this but it has a EPA PIN IN it thst needs defeated so you open it slightly so it can drain constantly ...the primary can be adjusted by idle set screw on linkage...but this leads to the problem of to much gas coming through idle mix screw. Feed below the plates at least on mine...but all motors are different maybe yours will adjust out ...
 
Got my micro drill bits today, so after work I soldered the primary side idle jet. It was a #50, Drilled to a #36 for this video:
Here the video of that run:


Seemed a little sluggish, so I drilled to a #40. Here is that run. Still taking it's time to drop back to idle.
 
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