Going SC

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dan filipi":165tj280 said:
Good times!

From 40, are you going larger or smaller next?

Dan, I've been PMing with Joedrum a bit. I also appreciate your advice also.

Joe suggested I pull the plugs today, clean them, then let the bike run, not touching the throttle for a long bit. I'll put a couple of fans in front of the bike, monitor the temp. Afterwards, pulling the plugs to see what color they may be. Joe is wanting to check on it's performance.

Once warm it idled nicely at #40.

But I just got an emergency service call, no a/c. Well i'll start the process this afternoon, hopefully.
 
So this video is at the end of running 1 hr of idling. This was per JoeDrum's request. Idle was steady as a rock at 1050-1100 rpm. This is with 740 carb and the Primary Idle jet at #40, instead of #50. I cleaned the plugs and re-gapped them, also hooked up the vacuum advance since it still works. Pulled plugs after run and they looked just like when they went in, none were wet or black.

 
Couldn't resist a ride around the block. Even though around 40 mph it is sluggish or hesitant, the idle to that point was impressive. My bike hasn't ran like that before. Count me impressed.
Need to figure out the hesitation. I was still in the primary at that point.
 
Sounding like primary might be lite in gas charge ...with this carb there a point where it goes way rich to lean I think this is where your at idle good now and the next stage of dialing in is where your at at 40mph ...there are two ways to bump up gas charge

One is closing down air bleed on top of emulsion tube or making gas jet bigger on bottom of tube ..I always made fillers to close off air some out of stands of copper wire to see of I was heading in the right direction ...you have have to get this right as your accelerator pump on these carbs has 2 places where it squirts ..just off idle and just before secondary opens so jetting has to be right as it's the only thing adjustable here ..your doing good so far idle was huge step
 
[url=https://classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=222356#p222356:3hn21is7 said:
joedrum » Today, 7:10 am[/url]":3hn21is7]
Sounding like primary might be lite in gas charge ...with this carb there a point where it goes way rich to lean I think this is where your at idle good now and the next stage of dialing in is where your at at 40mph ...there are two ways to bump up gas charge

One is closing down air bleed on top of emulsion tube or making gas jet bigger on bottom of tube ..I always made fillers to close off air some out of stands of copper wire to see of I was heading in the right direction ...you have have to get this right as your accelerator pump on these carbs has 2 places where it squirts ..just off idle and just before secondary opens so jetting has to be right as it's the only thing adjustable here ..your doing good so far idle was huge step


Joe, the strands of copper wire are genius! I have plenty of stranded #12, #10, #8.
I will experiment with the air first, by blocking as you said.
 
So last night I had an hour before shutting down for the night.

Joe Drum said once you hit a spot these bikes can become monsters. He is very much telling the truth!

I originally when to a 1.80 on the Primary High Speed Bleed, stalling on load got worse.
So then I soldered the top and went down to a 1.40 on the Primary High Speed Bleed, on acceleration, just about broke the rear loose from a rolling start on pavement.
I am getting just a little mini backfire from the exhaust after running it hard like that under load. Probably need to slightly open the air bleed a little more.
1.40 = a #54 bit, 1.50 = a #53, so that might be tonight's trial. So far it has no issues with the secondary circuit.

This video is of the 1.40 Primary doing engine pull. SO far the secondaries do not seem to need to be messed with.



Hope to get my GoPro knock off out this weekend, after another tweak for a ride video.
 
Well I finally had a few evenings to spend and hour or two messing with the jets.
I have found that it really likes the .50 idle jet more than the .40.

I finally had some time to read on Weber carb set up for cars. They want you to start with the idle screw adjustment turned in from just hitting the stop, two turns. Then set the mixture screw at two turns and adjust from there with it running.

At .40 I was out 3 3/4 turns. So I went up to a .45 jet it ran a little better but not totally right at low speed (mini surges). So tonight I went to a .50 jet and it really likes it better on the low end. The mixture screw is turned out 2 1/4 turns. I've got good idle, drops right down to idle after a run, and the little surges are gone under load.

Now I have to figure out where to go for the stalling under load at 40 mph. My thinking is that should still be in the primary side. with that said I am at Main Jet 1.05 and the Primary air at 1.80. I was thinking more air was needed, but now wonder if it actually needs more fuel? Any thoughts?
 
Tonight dodging rain and lighting moving in I ran a test run with the following:

Here is where I am with the wing at the present:
Primary Idle jet .50
Primary Air 160
Primary Fuel 110

Secondary Idle 60
Secondary Air 220
Secondary Fuel 105

Here is good video, but sound was bad:


Primary runs not too bad until you start opening up, then it stalls around 4K rpm.
Also in the video at 37 seconds that is 60 mph. At the the 1:24 point it is opened up, full throttle and stalls, that is again at 60 MPH.

Any ideas on where to go from here?
 
So yesterday I tried switching the air jets only to see how the primary would react with more air. It bogged down at 40 MPH.

Today I switch the air jets back and drill the primary fuel jet to a #56 drill or 1.18 mm. The primary side ran great, revs were good under load and quick.
Now to try to dial in the secondary.
 
Here is where I ended up on the jets. Mind you this is a (Stock) 1980 GL1100 engine and driveline.
Primary Idle jet .50
Primary Air 160
Primary Fuel 118 #56 Drill bit

Secondary Idle 60
Secondary Air 220
Secondary Fuel 132 #55 Drill bit

The secondary is so-oooooo much fun! I wish I had never wasted having the stock rack rebuilt 2x's in the past 3 years. Oh well, to Ebay they will go.
I want to thank all those who have done this before me. CGW has been a treasure trove of information! Special thanks to Dan F., for his ride report video that convinced me to go this way, also to JoeDrum who has helped me when I would get stuck and encourage to keep plugging on. I am so glad I made the change. I have had this bike for 5 years (Barn Find) and making it my own resto mod. This pretty much completes it.

This video was tonight. Mind you it was shot on a county road with a limit of 40 mph, but man 60 mph comes up fast.

 
Yes it's fun ...on my bike with the caveman modded 1200 motor .
.I don't think many ever believed that it will pull the front wheel off the ground even two up ..my brother flipped.out ...my bike has more power than clutch..it's maxed out ...it's as fast. As a oldwing can Be ...I've had many fast cars and bikes ..hooch is the most radicle thing I've ever put together ...very glad Classicgoldwing help you make your bike your own ..we have always been the leader in true SCC information ...as we have always outed the BS people against and for SCC with plenty of proof videos and threads ...fantastic you hanged in there and got achieved your goal ...
 
After a surprise visit from my daughter last night (3.5 hrs), I got back to buttoning up items. I was able to make a mounting plate, then cut off the factory air box off 2". It sat on the 740 carb perfectly. I then took a piece of 10-24 all thread, made a hook. Then fitted the factory filter and air box top.
Waiting for the adhesive to dry making the backing plate and air box one unit, then I'll drill for the crankcase breather hose.
I'd rather have the filter enclosed than have room for the tool tray for riding in the rain.
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Sent from my moto g(7) plus using Tapatalk
 
Here is a good video on the basics of how a carb works and draws fuel, with a see thru carb.

 
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