GL1200 Paint Project - Part 3 - The finish

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Rednaxs60

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Keeping the threads to fewer pages. This Part will detail my race to the finish on a slow boat.

Have done some faux chrome painting with Createx Quicksilver chrome. It is definitely not chrome as from a manufacturer, but I do believe it has a place in a restoration. Options for restoring chrome is to have the item media blasted then chromed, powder coated, painted or just to clean up the item - water and tinfoil does a good job of this. I have chosen, after considerable research, to use the Quicksilver paint for smaller pieces.

There are other products on the market from Dulpi-Color and others using a spray can. Have found that for us DIY people, without the benefit of a good spray booth, the results are never the same. The video I used as a guide for this product and what I have achieved first time round, the results are not that different. Thinking the more you use the product, the better you get at achieving a good finish.

You need to apply this paint over a high gloss black, even a high gloss white, depending on the look you are going for. Recommended application is four light coats, then leave alone. I used an air brush to apply the high gloss black and the Quicksilver chrome. Both products are water based. I was going to do the handlebars with this product but I like a brushed aluminum look and the shine is far superior to this faux chrome product. The hardware pieces should pic up some of the surrounding gold metal flake colour when installed on the bike. It does clean up the old chrome pieces. Have to do a clear coat and this should bring up the shine a bit.

Here are some pics to look at and a comparison hand polished chrome. Brushed aluminum:
handle Bars Polished.jpg
Here are the faux chrome air wing hardware:
Wing Hardware Chrome 1.jpg
Wing Hardware Chrome 2.jpg


When the bike is together, it will be interesting to see who of my riding friends notice these pieces.
 
Took some pics before I buttoned up the engine cases. Honing looks good:
Honing 1.jpg
Honing 2.jpg
Took a pic of the left side case - not much in there:
Case Internal.jpg
Used Hondabond 4 to seal the cases:
Case Sealant.jpg
Spent the rest of the afternoon joining the right/left engine cases, and putting some of the parts back on the engine:
Parts going On.jpg
Will torque the rotor and clutch tomorrow.

When I joined the engine cases, I used rags to position the pistons to drop the engine case over them. Worked a treat, don't need anything fancy to do this.
 
More work done today on the painting front. Applied CERAKOTE to the handlebars. Got the switch housings set up for painting. Made some jigs to suit:
Switch Housing Paint Jig 1.jpg
Switch Housing Paint Jig 2.jpg
Going to paint tomorrow.
 
Warp speed Mr Scott. Aye Captain! Things are percolating. Polished the timing covers ready for CERAKOTE:
Timing Covers Polished.jpg
Nice change from the mechanical and painting; however, did clear coat the saddlebag and side mirror trim, and the air wing hardware. Into cold weather painting. Heat up the garage, do small numbers of pieces, try to keep time down to half hour for painting. Still open the garage door when the fan is on. Going to polish a couple more pieces, then apply the CERAKOTE as a protectorant. Should get at the switch housings tomorrow.
 
Keeping the momentum going, other than putting up outside Xmas lights. Black matte finish on the switch housings, clear coat to be applied, probably tomorrow:
Switch Housing Paint Jig 3.jpg
Put the accent panels on the side mirrors - hope the black gloss is not too much:
Side Mirrors Done.jpg
Lots more to do.
 
Got the switch housings clear coated yesterday, look very good. Assembly is going to be interesting - something like a jigsaw puzzle. The Limited Edition has two lights in the key switch cover. Took this apart yesterday and the bulbs are U/S. Used a couple from the dash to check the circuit, one was not working so will check the dash lights as well. Can source these out of CMS in Holland, bout the same as ordering from down south and delivery is very quick. Have depleted my stash of brake caliper rebuild seals, and used one of the new brake pad pins I had on hand. Going to come up with a list of spares to get and order everything I can think of at once.

If someone has an alternate source for the small dash lights, would like to hear.
 
Painting season is quickly coming to an end. Had to scrape frost off the car this morning. Only have a couple of pieces that I will do now, the upper rear engine bolt holders, fuel filter holder and the mud flap.

Going to do the mud flap light bar with the Quicksilver chrome. No amount of cleaning/polishing is going to bring the original finish back:
Mud Flap.jpg
Thinking that the new finish will be a good accent to the rear of the bike.
 
Into doing the finer details such as installing master cylinders and switches. Not many pics to post, have some of the switch housings inside for the night to let the glue set between the base and main housing parts. Have the clutch MC on and the main switch:
Clutch MC Install.jpg
Thinking the look is quite nice and clean.
 
The never ending story, more pieces ready for painting. Picked up from the my media blasting guy, epoxy primer already done:
More Painting.jpg
Trailer hitch, upper engine brackets, heat shield, mud flap trim and an elusive caliper pin holder - not losing this one. Picking up some gloss black paint tomorrow, need a couple of these pieces to install the engine. In the meantime, electrical to do.

I think this can come in under painting and putting the bike together, new LED bulbs for the dash and headlight side lights have been ordered as well as CANBUS ready bulbs for the signals. Read up on the CANBUS bulbs and they have internal resistors that stop the hyper flash with normal LED bulbs. Will report on these when I can.
 
Have painted the remaining parts for this time round. Finish is quite good: however, since I painted these final pieces in cooler weather the paint did not flow as well as it should have:
Upper Rear Engine Motor Mount.jpg
Upper Rear Engine Motor Mount 2.jpg


This paint mixture of 3:1:1-1.5 parts, 3 parts paint, 1 part 2k activator, 1 to 1.5 parts reducer, was also different in that it used a 2K activator in the mix. This is similar to using the activator in the clear coat. It provides the paint colour with the gloss appearance while at the same time providing the protection of a clear coat. My thoughts are that I shouldn't have to apply any further protectorant coats and just install. Talked to my paint guy and he informed me that with a base colour such as the black, using this type of mix makes single stage paints quite easy to use. He mentioned that with a 2 stage paint system that has a metal flake aspect, it's base colour then clear coat. This way, if/when you cut/polish you are doing it to the clear coat, not the base colour - too easy to ruin the metal flake aspect. Going to let the pieces sit for at least a week, won't need before that, and should be good to go.

Gloss finish where a person will never see isn't a waste, but a bit overkill. Glad I did use this specific blend of paint because I learned something new. I do have some of the other paint product that needs a protectorant and clear type coating to give it a gloss look.
 
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