86 GL1200A Cover B airbox repair?

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julimike54

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My Bike Models
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I was removing the air filter lower housing (held on by 4 shoulder screws) & 2 came loose as would expect, the other 2 didn't. My guess is that they were over torqued by a :sensored: "mechanic", term used loosely, and "locked" together (shoulder to nut). Any how by the time I got the assembly off, 1 nut sert? (not sure what it's called, it's inside thread cylinder with a square bottom) is spinning in the Cover B (ie loose) the other came out of the Cover B.
My question is has anyone gone through this and found an easy repair?
The part is 'discontinued' (oh surprise!, not).
Any pointers would be appreciated
Mike
 
It's possible a slurry of PVC cement can re-bond the nut. Maybe some nevrsieze on the threads will prevent this from happening again. Lowes hardware section has a few different styles of blind nuts that may work in place of the original.
 
Not a good thing, sometimes a drill with a driver bit chucked up good & tight, in reverse will spin fast enough to un screw when the screw spins but wont come out. Otherwise drill out the head & grab with vise grips, as impact would most likely break plastic, if its frozen. That 2 part epoxy for our type plastic, should repair if plastic is broken
 
[url=https://classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=141927#p141927:q06w371v said:
Denver » 12 minutes ago[/url]":q06w371v]
Not a good thing, sometimes a drill with a driver bit chucked up good & tight, in reverse will spin fast enough to un screw when the screw spins but wont come out. Otherwise drill out the head & grab with vise grips, as impact would most likely break plastic, if its frozen. That 2 part epoxy for our type plastic, should repair if plastic is broken
The drill driver is what I used to remove last 2 screws along with a few choice words. The one blind nut is loose in the cover, it spins and can be moved up & down, a little. The other screw/nut came out of the cover (plastic melted from turning with driver too fast). The only thing with a glue (whatever type is good for this plastic) is that it will likely flow into the threads & re-taping might break it loose again. Any ideas?
The anti-sieze is a good idea, I don't think it would every happen again if it wasn't slammed shoulder to nut (I'm thinking it was put together with a drill/driver).
Last would be the type of glue, the plastic appears to be fairly flexible, maybe polypro? or ??? so not sure what might work. I might have to drill out around the one that's loose to get anything in there to glue it?
 
I've no idea what glue would work best. Maybe someone at a local hardware could provide a good suggestion. it needs to partially dissolve the plastic in order to really bond.
 
When you re glue the nut in just install a screw with plenty of never seize on it that way the glue can't stick to the threads :yes:
 
Don't use glue, the A B S 2part epoxy or plastic repair stuff is at any hardware store. I've used Locktite's A B S stuff with success, spray your screw with oil, to keep from sticking. Soldering gun will melt plastic together, if any parts meet well, & tape will hold in place till dry. Good luck :good:
 
[url=https://www.classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=141967#p141967:3etpg8lv said:
Denver » Thu Feb 26, 2015 10:35 pm[/url]":3etpg8lv]
Don't use glue, the A B S 2part epoxy or plastic repair stuff is at any hardware store. I've used Locktite's A B S stuff with success, spray your screw with oil, to keep from sticking. Soldering gun will melt plastic together, if any parts meet well, & tape will hold in place till dry. Good luck :good:
I am confused Denver you say don't use glue but then you suggest 2 different types of ABS glue.
 
Regular run of the mill glue, was what I ment to say, sorry for the mix up. The A B S stuff is more like epoxy, handles like putty before it dries
 
Yes maybe a little runny at first, but not bad at all, firms up pretty quickly & can be contained with duct tape nicely, so you have more time to work with it if need be. :good: Follow the directions, yea read em first. I seldom do. THIS TIME, I DID, & worked great, MAKE SURE IT'S FOR A B S plastic, don't think J B weld melts the plastic like A B S stuff hope this helps. :whip:
 
All the above will work. I've had good results with black ABS plastics glue (available at ACE hardware). I've also used acetone (fingernail remover $1 @ Walmart) and made a plastic slurry by mixing it and scraps of black plastic in a sealed glass jar overnight. The slurry flows into crack & crevices in your pieces and bonds tightly as the acetone evaporates from the mixture. As suggested above, I would also thoroughly grease the screw and run it into the nut to prevent slurry or glue from running into the threads.

Good luck, Spring is only 2 weeks away (on the calendar).
 
Well as an update, been tied up?, I tested a spot to see if the ABS glue would stick, it doesn't, just pops loose, not even a mark on the cover. I'm thinking it's made of polypro. Still looking for a glue to stick to it. May try hot glue, thinking that equipment we used to build was made with that & it was welded
 
the bags and all are made of abs ...it dose work ...its great stuff ...as said acetone and and abs shaving make good filler and welds itself together ...give it another shot ....and like said clean better....
 
If acetone doesn't "dent" it, it is not abs. Going by memory, the plastic looks more fibrous like materials under the hood of many cars today. It's proximity to raw fuel probably necessitates non ABS.
 
I've used a soldering iron to weld some plastics. Might be able to find a similar plastic pipe at a hardware to use for filler.
 
Soldering iron is a great way to start, :yes: Locktite makes an A B S, 2part plastic repair kit I've used after welding & CLEANING WELL with good resilts. :good:
 
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