GL1500 Alternator front seal replacement

So the alternator is disassembled, but waiting for the seal. Should be here tomorrow. Here's a few pics and some info on getting the coupler off the front, and the location of the dang seal.
The aftermarket, high amp alt I have is TOTALLY different from the OE alternator, as far as removing the coupler:



I had to disassemble the alt completely, and carefully put the armature in a vise(with protection). Then I used a 14" pipe wrench on the coupler to hold pressure in the direction of removal, and tapped lightly on the coupler fins. After a few taps, the coupler spun loose. No pics of that, but I'll try to take a few on re-assembly.

With the coupler off, you can see and remove the seal.


The seal actually seals on the surface of the coupler itself. On this one, the sealing surface is really rough where it was machined. I'm purdy shoor that's why the seals on both of the alts I have were leaking. I plan on smoothing the surface before re-assembly.


With the alt disassembled, you can clearly see the amount of engine oil on the inside of it, both in the front housing, and on the stator coil. All of this will be cleaned with electrical contact cleaner.



Along with a new seal, I purchased 4 new coupler dampers, even tho my originals are still in good shape. This also shows the part number for the dampers.


Still have a few more miles left on these brushes, so I'm not replacing them at this time.


Soon as the new seal gets here, I'll slap this puppy back together and see how I did... :good:

Why do you suppose that sealing surface is so rough? I can't imagine the rubber riding on it did that, 'least not that I've ever experienced on similar. Bad machining?

Yes...rough machining. It's basically like a record album...one long groove from front to rear. It pulls and releases the seal continuously....like a needle stuck on a record. That's my story, and I'm stickin wid it. :yes: You can actually feel the groove. I plan on chucking it up and sanding it smooth.

Good to see that you are making good headway Joel.

Get that sealing area polished up like glass, and the seal should outlast the alternator.

Seal FINALLY arrived Saturday. HOWEVER....it will NOT fit this aftermarket alternator. :sensored: :head bang: The inside diameter is far too small. It will fit my original Honda alternator tho, so I'll have a seal for when I finally get around to putting new brushes in the original alt, and have it for a spare, also.

I chucked the coupler up in the drill press, and used a brown Rol-loc disc on a die-grinder to smooth out the rough seal surface. I followed the Rol-loc with some 180 grit emory cloth, and followed that with a red scotch-brite pad. The sealing surface is now smooth enough to not rip at the seal.....the seal I had to order by dimension. Less than $10, at my door by Friday. :clapping:
I also got all of the oil cleaned from the internal parts of the alt, so it's all ready to be re-assembled as soon as the other seal gets here.

In case anyone is wondering, the seal is a 24x38x7(metric), which means it has a 24mm inside diameter, 38mm outside diameter, and a 7mm width. Actual part # on the old one is TC 24387. The OD and width are the same as the OE Honda seal, but the inside diameter(sealing surface) is much larger than the OE seal.

Pics will be coming when I get it ready to put back together. :good:

:good:

May I suggest going on up to 2000 grit (auto parts stores, Walmart) on the sealing surface?

[url=https://classicgoldwings.us/viewtopic.php?p=209411#p209411:25vrkk0w said:

pidjones » Tue Apr 23, 2019 7:04 pm[/url]":25vrkk0w]
May I suggest going on up to 2000 grit (auto parts stores, Walmart) on the sealing surface?

Click to expand...

You may... :thanks:

Also a dab of motor oil on both rubber and mating surface. Seals still need lubrication. A pump that I used at work started being produced with seals that leaked less and less due to a major user's demands. Then they started failing rapidly. Vendors went back to slight (an oil film would develop in the vicinity over a year, but only attract dust, never drip) leakage and lifetimes greatly increased.

[url=https://www.classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=209417#p209417:xd5k2yhz said:

pidjones » Wed Apr 24, 2019 10:31 pm[/url]":xd5k2yhz]
Also a dab of motor oil on both rubber and mating surface. Seals still need lubrication. A pump that I used at work started being produced with seals that leaked less and less due to a major user's demands. Then they started failing rapidly. Vendors went back to slight (an oil film would develop in the vicinity over a year, but only attract dust, never drip) leakage and lifetimes greatly increased.

Click to expand...

+1 and I like to glue mine in with aviation gasket.

New, correct seal arrived yesterday, so I got to put it all back together today. Here's a size comparison of the OE Honda alt seal, and the aftermarket alt seal...


I polished up the coupler where the seal rides...this will work much mo bettah...
Before pic

After pic

Seal fits here...


Speshul tool used to help tighten the coupler back onto the alt shaft...


Ever wonder why there were holes in alternator brushes?


They serve a purpose....to help re-assemble the brush plate onto the armature shaft...



Something you should always do BEFORE dis-assembly...


New rubber dampers installed....I'll wait.... :blush:


Got it all back together, and all is well. Alt is charging 14.3v constant. We'll give it a couple of weeks of riding to determine if the leak has been fixed, but I feel purdy gud so far. :yes:

This my first time seeing those dampers installed. What is the purpose of them?

Dan the dampers are a Cush drive coupling similar concept that is used in final drives.
Joel it is near impossible to pin the brushes for disassembly as the wear means that the holes won’t line up. :yes:

[url=https://classicgoldwings.us/viewtopic.php?p=209493#p209493:1t9h3ue1 said:

Ansimp » Mon Apr 29, 2019 1:36 am[/url]":1t9h3ue1]
Joel it is near impossible to pin the brushes for disassembly as the wear means that the holes won’t line up. :yes:

Click to expand...

oh2: Read it again...I state it is to help with re-assembly... :read:

:smilie_happy: :BigGrin: :smilie_happy:

[url=https://classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=209495#p209495:14xa7l9d said:

AApple » Mon Apr 29, 2019 9:15 pm[/url]":14xa7l9d]

[url=https://classicgoldwings.us/viewtopic.php?p=209493#p209493:14xa7l9d said:

Ansimp » Mon Apr 29, 2019 1:36 am[/url]":14xa7l9d]
Joel it is near impossible to pin the brushes for disassembly as the wear means that the holes won’t line up. :yes:

Click to expand...

oh2: Read it again...I state it is to help with re-assembly... :read:

:smilie_happy: :BigGrin: :smilie_happy:

Click to expand...

No worries, I read the label for the wrong photo. :doh: “mark halves before dis-assembly”

:smilie_happy: :smilie_happy: :clapping: :good: