Float bowl levels?

I'm rebuilding a set of gl1100 carbs that will go back on a 79 gl1000 motor. Trying to set the float levels and checking results with the clear tube method. The question is, where should the fuel level in the bowl be? Is it like the keihin carbs on my cb750, where the level should be 2-3 mm below the float bowl seam?
I can set the float height to 15.5 mm according to the factory manual, but there is no mention of desired fuel level in the bowl.

Appreciate your help on this.

p.s. yes Joe, I know it will run better on just one super-modified progressive two-barrel carb, but I don't feel up to that yet :shock:

Yes 1100 carbs work really well on 1000 motors ...big plus in my book ..if the rack operates sweet ..they as good or better than they do on 1100 motors in my opinion lol..especially on the 78-79 1000s ..i had the mongrel setup like that awhile ..sweet in the hills of southern Indiana with excellerator pump.

Seems I remember somebody here had posted that info, but ?????

Thanks for the encouragement, but how much fuel should be in the bowls for normal operation? The consensus among cb750 owners with keihin carbs is 2-3mm below the bowl seam. Would you agree?

[url=https://www.classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=216547#p216547:2m5xbbhu said:

kerryb » Today, 5:24 am[/url]":2m5xbbhu]
Thanks for the encouragement, but how much fuel should be in the bowls for normal operation? The consensus among cb750 owners with keihin carbs is 2-3mm below the bowl seam. Would you agree?

Click to expand...

2-3 mm is what I found to be very close to the correct float height. I found it can be a little hard to see accurately but it gave a good comparison with all 4 carbs.

[url=https://classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=216549#p216549:3birtx1e said:

dan filipi » Sat Apr 11, 2020 12:29 pm[/url]":3birtx1e]

[url=https://www.classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=216547#p216547:3birtx1e said:

kerryb » Today, 5:24 am[/url]":3birtx1e]
Thanks for the encouragement, but how much fuel should be in the bowls for normal operation? The consensus among cb750 owners with keihin carbs is 2-3mm below the bowl seam. Would you agree?

Click to expand...

2-3 mm is what I found to be very close to the correct float height. I found it can be a little hard to see accurately but it gave a good comparison with all 4 carbs.

Click to expand...

Thanks Dan, I'm using a method taken from the sohc forum called the clear tube method. The clear tube is threaded into the bowl drain.
From these pics it appears I need new float valves on #s 2 & 4.

There's a method for refreshing the tip of the OEM float valves, I don't recall what that was but many have done it and saved buying new. I gather refreshing the OEM valves is better than replacing them with non-OEM valves.

[url=https://classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=216551#p216551:739aduyq said:

dan filipi » Sat Apr 11, 2020 1:16 pm[/url]":739aduyq]
There's a method for refreshing the tip of the OEM float valves, I don't recall what that was but many have done it and saved buying new. I gather refreshing the OEM valves is better than replacing them with non-OEM valves.

Click to expand...

That would be great to know. I tried polishing the seats, to no avail.

[url=https://classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=216550#p216550:n8z0cvea said:

kerryb » Sun Apr 12, 2020 2:39 am[/url]":n8z0cvea]

[url=https://classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=216549#p216549:n8z0cvea said:

dan filipi » Sat Apr 11, 2020 12:29 pm[/url]":n8z0cvea]

[url=https://www.classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=216547#p216547:n8z0cvea said:

kerryb » Today, 5:24 am[/url]":n8z0cvea]
Thanks for the encouragement, but how much fuel should be in the bowls for normal operation? The consensus among cb750 owners with keihin carbs is 2-3mm below the bowl seam. Would you agree?

Click to expand...

2-3 mm is what I found to be very close to the correct float height. I found it can be a little hard to see accurately but it gave a good comparison with all 4 carbs.

Click to expand...

Thanks Dan, I'm using a method aken from the sohc forum called the clear tube method. The clear tube is threaded into the bowl drain.
From hese pics it appears I ned new float vaves on #s 2 & 4.

Click to expand...

:good:

I have polished OEM needle tips by rolling them over heavy plumbers emery cloth.

[url=https://classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=216600#p216600:3lcjon7p said:

mcgovern61 » Mon Apr 13, 2020 9:35 am[/url]":3lcjon7p]
I have polished OEM needle tips by rolling them over heavy plumbers emery cloth.

Click to expand...

That's very interesting. I could mount the needles in the lathe and spin them, but would emery cloth scratch the rubber tips. Trying to understand a possible fix instead of buying new. What do you think about polishing or rubbing compound?

I rolled the rubber tips between my fingers while pressing against the emery cloth. It was the only product I found cleaning two sets of 1100 carbs that was able to get the hardened gunk off the rubber tip. I also cleaned the seat by rolling the emery into a cone and only used the point of the cone to rub out the seat. Also, when cleaning the needle, be sure the plunger goes in and out real easy. If not, you will need to free them up.

Worked perfectly each time.

A BRIEF acetone soak might soften the rubber and remove junk. Maybe just a wash and rub. Make sure the bore of the seat and flutes on the valve are super-smooth too. Sometimes the internal spring gets junked-up and can be freed with carb cleanerand exercising.

Well, I polished the seats with brasso, and pulled the little return collars off the tops of the needles. Plungers work well, all parts cleaned again, and did the clear tube test a few more times. Then had to dissassemble the whole rack again to find out why the accelerator pump stopped working on carbs 2 & 4 (vb48c's from '83) cleaned the nozzles again and we're back in busines. So I declared the carbs DONE and put them on the bike.
This is my buddy's bike so I have no history on it except that it's a low mileage '79. Come to find out the engine has been out (bolts told me) the carbs are from '82 or '83, the front brakes are from a '77 or earlier ( replacement piston size) and I haven't even looked at the wiring yet...that's tomorrows adventure. Looking forward to getting this off my lift so I can work on my bike!

Congrats! :clapping:

Looks like the mix breed is coming along

I'm not sure which one made me happier, getting new bearings in the front wheel, or making the tools to get the job done!

woohoo :clapping:

Cool