Where can I get parts

I have a 1986 GL1200I that I purchased a couple of years ago. Started having some electrical problems. When I got the fairing off and looked at it I was concerned. As you can see from the pictures someone has done some wiring changes. I would like to take it back to as close as possible to the original wiring. I am having a problem trying to find the original connectors. Anybody know where these can be obtained

You can get all of the original connectors including the tools to work with them from Vintage Connections:

http://vintageconnections.com/Products/Connectors

Yup, like Jerry says, vintageconnections.com. the crimping tool is kinda spendy, but it works so well you don't mind too much. Plastic sockets don't always mix with the old stuff so it's better to be prepared with both halves new. Looks like you need to look at most of them. A trick I use to clean the old ones in place, is to clip a ziplock to the bike with vinegar in it. Then arrange the dirty connector to hang immerssed in the white vinegar overnight (it is a mild acid). Last tip for now, don't replace the connector for the three yellow stator wires. Just clean the ends, solder together, and shrinktube them. Be sure the black wire to the voltage regulator is really clean, it tells the the reg/rec how much to charge the battery. Poor connections there cause overcharging to cook your battery.

Search Gerry's forum posts. He has done a lot with electrical. Most electrical problems stem from dirt/crud/oxidation in/on old connectors, and less than stellar wiring.

OEM style connectors and pin removal tool(s) can be had from Amazon and eBay as well. Get a good crimper - ratcheting type, wire stripper, and pin crimper.

Shrink tube for connections is a must. If using solderless connectors, spring for the heat shrink variety. The heat shrink on these connectors helps keep the connector joined.

Most common OEM style connectors you will use are 2/3/4 pin. Don't throw old ones away, clean and reuse.

Recommend removing any non-OEM wiring and get back to the basics. Once this is done, and you want to add items, nice to haves, use an accessory fuse box that is powered through a relay. Get the fuse box that has the power and integrated ground bus. This allows you to disconnect these circuits when things happen, and you only troubleshoot the original OEM install. Splicing into a wiring harness designed with the minimum sized wire to operate the electrical system safely as it came from the factory is not always a good idea.

Agree with Kerry regarding the stator wires; however, a good waterproof high amp 3 pin connector from a marine chandlery will work very well. If your bike has the original connector, a new one will outlast us both.

A good place to mount this fuse box is in the rear trunk.

Ok, I knew for awhile I needed a new ignition switch. Bought one from sabrecycle. Bad choice! I will never buy another part from them. So I bought a used switch. It seems to be working ok. A former owner apparently did not want to put in a new switch so things were wired crazy to get power to where he wanted it. I was still getting a voltage leak of 12.6v. The thermo switch that operates the radiator fan looked real corroded so I replace the switch and put in some new wiring. The capacitor's looked really bad and corroded so I replaced them. Still had over 12v loss. Then I went through and disconnected all the wiring that was not original. Bow my voltage leak is less than 1 volt. I still will need to trace that down but I am making some real head way.

No such thing as voltage leak. Amperage is what drains the battery.