Suspension shortcuts?

shop deals on amazon
Shop deals on ebay
Advertise with us
Classic Goldwings

Help Support Classic Goldwings:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
M

Motörhead

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 29, 2022
Messages
125
Reaction score
59
Location
Texas
My Bike Models
1985 Kawasaki Concours
1975 Honda GL1000
I want to put fresh grease in the steering and swingarm bearings. On my last project the bike was stripped to a bare frame then the bearings were addressed, not looking forward to disassembling this GW in the usual manner (removing triple trees and swingarm). Any ideas? What about loosening the top nut enough to spray grease in there? I'm also looking to replace the fork oil but I've read putting the top nut back on requires a fabbed compressor or a 800 lb gorilla.
 
I wonder if the forks can be refilled by pulling a vacuum on the air system with the drained fork in a graduated container?
 
The head bearings (unless they have been replaced) are ball bearings. The lower one gets abuse and often the balls dent the race to make steering "notchy". Most '75s require a special upper if going to rollers, but the upper sees little abuse so replaceing just the lower with a tappered roller bearing is the way to go. Later years get tappered upper and lower when rebuilt. All that while you have the legs off to clean thoroughly before installing new seals and fork oil. Make sure you loisen the bottom Allen BEFORE taking the leg out of the tripple trees.
 
pidjones said:
The head bearings (unless they have been replaced) are ball bearings. The lower one gets abuse and often the balls dent the race to make steering "notchy". Most '75s require a special upper if going to rollers, but the upper sees little abuse so replaceing just the lower with a tappered roller bearing is the way to go. Later years get tappered upper and lower when rebuilt. All that while you have the legs off to clean thoroughly before installing new seals and fork oil. Make sure you loisen the bottom Allen BEFORE taking the leg out of the tripple trees.
Click to expand...
Partzilla shows a caged tapered bearing for the 1986 so hopefully that's what is in there
https://www.partzilla.com/product/honda/91016-371-000Good tip on the allen bolt before removing the fork. What I was shown to do is drain the oil, pop off the dust cap, reach down and get the snap ring out, zip out the allen bolt with an impact, then slide hammer the lower and the seal comes out. Messy but quick.
 
I have about 20 windows open looking for a swing arm socket that isn't in the UK. One of the UK listings indicates 34mm is that information accurate? I want to order an SAE equivalent that'll arrive Monday from Amazon or pick up at the local AutoZone
 
Last edited:
always just made my own. but might as well cut the old one and replace. you need to replace the stems, barings, nuts etc if you ever go in there.
 
Going to try cutting down the inside lugs of this from 30 to 34mm inside dia which will leave 2mm of lug. If it works without breaking will update.
Screenshot_2023-03-03-12-52-54-081.jpg
 
Motörhead said:
I wonder if the forks can be refilled by pulling a vacuum on the air system with the drained fork in a graduated container?
Click to expand...
You most likely could, if you can find an adaptor to hook a vacuum pump up to the top air holes I don't see why not, you'd only need a couple of "Hg below atmospheric to do it.
You can also do it by gravity straight into the bottom, IF you can find an adapter.
And if you can find either one of these adaptors, let me know.
 
I don't have an ac pump or would go further with that. What about wiring the air suspension pump backwards 🤔😆
There's a guy on my street into those crazy off-road mud buggies, he looks like Dwayne Johnson and said will help with the speed wrench on the fork caps.
Getting the springs out means the fork inners can be sprayed down and flushed.
The seals on it now seem good there's only the slightest ring of oil on one tube so ordering a seal cleaning tool. Any comments on which is best?
 

Attachments

  • Screenshot_2023-03-04-07-47-27-442.jpg
    Screenshot_2023-03-04-07-47-27-442.jpg
    61.8 KB · Views: 0
If the swing arm is still tight, just re-lubricate through the grease fitting. You really should pull the fork legs apart, clean, and install new seals and dust boots. There are no valuable shortcuts that help, really. The only hard part is getting the old seals out (and breaking loose that bottom bolt if you have already removed spring pressure). If it has the TRAC system, it just complicates the job a bit more.
 
It does have TRAC and I need to get this bike roadworthy, registered, and start riding it before my trip on Labor Day. Last year I had the same trip planned but got so involved in the Kawasaki ZG1000 Concours I didn't have time to shake it down and missed going to Indy. The tickets and such went to waste.
 
Replacing the worn parts, seals, bushings, fork springs.
Is pretty much standard proceedure on any old bike.
Dont forget the steering head bearings.
Easier to replace now, while the forks are apart.
 

Latest posts

Top