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Kind of stalled for a bit. Thanksgiving week was busy, then our family came down with Covid, so now we are isolating, and this is the first day that I've felt like getting out of bed. The usual respiratory symptoms were tough but manageable. The headaches really knocked me out, though. Finally...

Looks like I have one headed this way over the next few weeks!

Obviously, the solution is a bigger garage!

Annnd, there it is! Surprised when the stem was loosened that it has roller bearings in it!

Could be low battery, bad connections, several other things.

Can accomplish so much more with the Triumph out of the way. Rear wheel, brake, fender, etc. out and then tank out. Headers and muffler (shot full of holes). Next, remove the front brakes and footpegs. Rear drive came off easy after the snap ring (not too big a struggle, but went through all of...

If the carbs are clean and well-adjusted, you might want to look at this: How to Cure "Off-Idle" Flat Spot | Randakk's Blog

Seems odd to me that the right side is rotted out, while the left is just a little rusty. Let me know if you have something. I've already obtained a decent muffler. This is for my "Pete" project '75 GL1000.

Not a lot today. Carbs are pretty much all clean. Waiting for o-rings to assemble. Moved the Triumph out of the garage and into the shed today - that gives me a lot more room to work on the GL.

The Honda FSM is available as a free pdf download from several sites. If you are going to work on a GL1000, you really need it.

Do you have the Honda FSM? It is spelled out fairly clearly in it.

Let us know how that goes for you.

Real happy with this method of removing the float valve seats. Just turned down ~1/4" off the end of a drift punch to JUST fit into the seat, then wobbled it patiently. A little brake cleaner helps, I think (although two came out without it). Sorry for the graininess of the video. The el-cheapo...

A bit more this morning (PT for the shoulder this afternoon). Plenum separated (a struggle - will need new screws) and all jets, tubes, etc. removed from #1 carb. Was surprised at how nice the float bowl looked for it. Not clean by any means, but no evidence of water like I've seen in every...

Carbs off, coolant and oil drained (coolant green, oil black), radiator pulled, handlebars pulled and wiring removed from them. Moving about as fast as I can (and want to) with the busted shoulder and very little space. Next will be to move it a little more out of the way so the carbs can be...

Yes, or just a continuity check with a VOM. Should be closed in neutral and open in any gear. Shift through several times to make sure it is not intermittent. But, that checks the switch, and you need to check the diodes also. Page 17-9 of the FSM tells how to check the switch, 17-12 shows the...

Oil drained? That is the easy part. You just about have to pull the engine. At a minimum you have to unbolt the front lower and spring the frame away from the case. I used a plastic chain saw wedge to help. But first, make sure the diodes are good.

Whew! Three days of patient wrenching, soaking, prying, soaking, wrenching, soaking finally got the front lower engine mount bolt free of its rust prison. After pulling the engine guards, removed the rack and started draining the coolant.

No.

Sometimes, she just wanted more attention.