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About 15 years ago I experienced poor handling from a brand new Shinko where I couldn't hit my line consistently. I've had similar problems with worn and cupped fronts of other brands. I'd have to experience the handling of a rear car tire. Maybe people are just living with the quirks and...

I'd be patient that bike is worth a bit more than $2500. Try your local Craigslist, take more and better pictures like in a motorcycle magazine and write it up like a salesman. Here's an example of when I sold my XR650R. The puffery here is actually mild compared to other ads I've run...

I wouldn't use it because tests on diesel oil reveal that none of them offer the best protection for gasoline engines. Read the oil blog at the beginning of this thread. Rotella T6 is Shell's flagship product for diesel engines. The additive package is designed specifically to protect them...

I would agree with you if Rotella were actually designed for gas engines. Unfortunately when you go to the Shell website you clearly see that Rotella is for diesel engines. Use almost any gas engine oil and you'll save wear on your engine compared to Rotella. Did you not read the most...

Bandit offered a good microfiche and that's about it as I came to discover. I tried them a few times. They would sell anything whether in stock or not. I eventually got my parts but vowed to never order from them again because of long delivery waits. I'm refurbing a '76 Wing and have...

Most any oil will work. You could probably use olive oil and be OK for awhile. Diesel oils offer good protection in low revving diesel engines along with low cost and long change intervals. They offer poor protection to a high revving gasoline engine because they were not designed for that...

Even though I've painted quite a few exhausts I'm now stuck on whether to spring for 1200 degree and up rated paint. or the 500 degree or so BBQ paint I have on hand. It's a short run from the headers to the rear painted section and I don't know hot it gets back there. I guess it's new paint...

Don't run the Rotella. Diesel oil is kind to a wet clutch but is not designed for gasoline engines. Use a gasoline engine oil. I used the Rotella diesel for years before putting two and two together. When hot I began hearing a bearing knock on my '03 SV1000S at idle. Bike only had 15K miles...

Might as well try and match the factory finish. Does anyone know whether the Honda OEM exhaust paint was flat, semi-gloss or glossy?

I contacted Randakk but only got a pro forma response. My guess is a typo in his instructions and the air gap should be around 260mm and not 160mm. After a careful remeasure my gap is 270mm or close enough.

I posted this topic but it needs an edit. Whoever installed seals on my 76 did not push them fully down to the seats below. That left a convenient 1/4" gap for removal by twisting sideways a large flathead placed underneath. I just installed new seals and drove them down to the seats and the...

pidjones - thanks for the tip! Honda PDF manual on hand. Honda does not specify an air gap but rather a range for the amount of fluid. Can anyone compare the difference running oil on the low vs the high end of the range? I've never ridden a GL1000 and don't know the damping characteristics...

I'm reassembling my '76 Wing forks and have run into a conundrum. Clymer says to use 5.6 - 6.1 US oz. and does not specify an air gap. I cross referenced that with Randakk https://www.randakksblog.com/removing-stiction-from-gl1000-front-forks/ who specifies 6.6 - 6.9 US oz. after a full...

Very interesting (in voice of Sgt. Schulz)! I would agree likely not a required part as it's purpose seems to be the prevention of marring the inside of the fork body upon seal removal. Do you have any more thoughts on the matter?

I'm short one "Ring, Back Up" which is a large washer placed underneath the fork seals on a '76 GL1000. It's #4 on the diagram and part #51412371003. My measurement is OD 42mm and ID 38mm. The closest I've found the Honda OEM part is in the Netherlands. It seems this washer protects the...

I rode a newer model 500 triple that had been slightly detuned and had a tight feel plus electronic ignition. For whatever reason the '72 had 3 sets of points. Best two stroke was my '76 Suzuki GT500. Always ran perfectly hot or cold similarly to what you get in a modern water cooled...

In '74 I was riding a '72 Kawasaki 500 H1B (2-stroke triple, 60hp). The power to weight ratio compared to a CB750 was greatly in my favor. I blew them away regularly and with ease. About that time I rode to a Lynnrd Skynnrd concert in Mobile, Alabama with a 165 pound passenger. On the return...

The seals in my '75 have been sitting since at least 1997 and probably much longer. They were in surprisingly good shape with no leakage onto the fork tubes but due to their age they are being replaced anyway. When you look into it there are a number of techniques for removing seals but I'm...

I don't like that oil and weight for two reasons. First, my '03 Suzuki SV1000S had an audible bearing knock at idle on that oil once hot and at only 2K miles on the oil. That was 15K miles ago. The knock went away after changing away from Rotella and has not returned. The Suzy has 30K miles...

I just had this issue on my 2000 Triumph TT600. I couldn't find a suitable 3 prong male/female connector (easily or on hand) so even though it might be a hassle later I cut out the plastic connector and soldered the 3 wires together. It seems there's enough current going through those plastic...