1987 gl1200 w/ 17k seized?

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Thombar

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Bought bike last summer, mint condition 1987 gl1200 17k miles, w/ engine turning over but wouldnt start. Drained fuel from tank, carbs and lines but no fuel to carbs. This summer change pump and filter but now engine wont turn over, w/ car battery, just solinoid click and starter click and headlight dies as starter draws too much. Sprayed PB Blaster and tried rocking in 1st gear w/ plugs out. Disabled Vet finally free to wing off into sunset but in need of help. What am I missing please?
 

mcgovern61

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Welcome to the site from New Jersey!

It could be the starter solenoid failed (common) or the starter itself is failing (also common).
 

Thombar

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Thx all ! w/ plugs out am trying to applying jumper cables directly to starter terminal and housing, bypassing solinoid or bad connections. Good to know about headlight too. Such a complex bike electronically, afraid to do much.
 

Thombar

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Connected negative jumper cable to starter housing and touched positive cable to starter terminal. Same clunk then whinning sound for a second. I guess bendix disengaging and spinning a little after release. About to try center stand and move rear wheel? Does the clutch relay effect starting when in neutral?
The PB Blaster I put in cylinders, foamed out plug hole in two, isnt much lube especially in the two w/ exhaust valves open. Anything else I should do before I try moving rear wheel?
Thx,
Tom
 

Thombar

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When I press the starter button I hear the starter solinoid relay click, the headlight go off (until I release starter button) and I hear and can feel the starter engage w/ a dull clank. When I release starter button I hear faint spinning for just split second, assuming its the bendix retracting? Dosnt sound like malfunction and oil looks feels and smells new, clear amber. I could pull starter and using jumper cables, test off bike but it seems normal. When I used jumper cable to test on starter terminal the ark tried to weld to terminal, drawing more current as if there were a short or starter just couldnt turn, piston stuck.
For lack of anything better to try, Ive put bike on center stand and used a floor jack under the back tire, ( to the rear of the axle so its tryiny to turn wheel w/ in 1st gear. Letting weight of bike turn drive train attempting to free pistons. Didnt like the jerking bike back and forth in gear prescribed by others. Trying to ba as low impact as poossible. So often we do more harm than good in situations like theese. Hoping the solvent Ive sprayed into spark plug holes is enough to loosen and avoid anymore scaring than necessary. We'll see in morn if this rig w/ jack helps.
Thx again,
Tom

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Thombar
Thombar
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Discussion Starter · #7 · 5 h ago
I did try tapping on started while I pressed starter button a couple of days ago but will try again having tried to turn rear wheel w/ floor jack and sprayed more PB Blaster into chambers. Somethings got to give without too much force. It cranked fine last summer just wouldnt start without new pump, petcock, and carbs rebuilt.
 

joedrum

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Ok th ere are things you can do to figure w hats up ...if it was me I would take belt covers off ...this allows access to crank bolt and timing belts .you cold put bike in neutral and take one belt off and see if that head valves move some ...also check where pistons are at if real close to the top don't try to move valves much just check to see if it's free
..of so check other side
..I'm thinking you will find w hats going on at this point as said stuck valve somewhere .
My guess is you need to get heads off or valve covers and find what stuck
..cause the motor obviously got stuck while not running from your post I read and starter seems to be engaging just move slow and find the problem ...I'm doubting it in the lower end and trans but maybe ? Good luck
 

Thombar

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Ok, thanks. Will pull belt covers and check for stuck valves. We have bore scope coming soon too. I guess also pull starter and bench test. Bike is all original, timing belts included. Thx, Tom
 

Steve83

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If a valve is stuck open and the piston is hitting it, the engine should still turn in the opposite direction nearly one full rotation. Pull the valve covers first, this will tell you if a valve is stuck, and it's much easier than pulling the timing belt covers.

If a valve is in the open position, back off the adjuster to see if it closes, counting the turns so you can return it to its original setting.

Lastly, there is no bendix on the starter. It has an internal planetary reduction gear set, and uses a chain to turn a one-way clutch inside the alternator rotor.
 

dan filipi

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[url=https://classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=222450#p222450:juw16nkz said:
Steve83 » Today, 2:48 pm[/url]":juw16nkz]
If a valve is stuck open and the piston is hitting it, the engine should still turn in the opposite direction nearly one full rotation. Pull the valve covers first, this will tell you if a valve is stuck, and it's much easier than pulling the timing belt covers.

If a valve is in the open position, back off the adjuster to see if it closes, counting the turns so you can return it to its original setting.

Lastly, there is no bendix on the starter. It has an internal planetary reduction gear set, and uses a chain to turn a one-way clutch inside the alternator rotor.
I was going to suggest looking at the rockers but is there a way to back off the adjusters on the 1200 hydraulic?
 

Thombar

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Very cool Dan,
Havnt started the timing belt effort so I'll gladly pull valve covers first. We should know suppertime tomorrow. Would it hurt anything to try moving rear wheel in reverse a little to see if engine is free that way?
Thanks a bunch,
Tom
 

Steve83

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[url=https://classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=222451#p222451:1dl6nyou said:
dan filipi » Wed Jun 30, 2021 4:53 pm[/url]":1dl6nyou]
[url=https://classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=222450#p222450:1dl6nyou said:
Steve83 » Today, 2:48 pm[/url]":1dl6nyou]
If a valve is stuck open and the piston is hitting it, the engine should still turn in the opposite direction nearly one full rotation. Pull the valve covers first, this will tell you if a valve is stuck, and it's much easier than pulling the timing belt covers.

If a valve is in the open position, back off the adjuster to see if it closes, counting the turns so you can return it to its original setting.

Lastly, there is no bendix on the starter. It has an internal planetary reduction gear set, and uses a chain to turn a one-way clutch inside the alternator rotor.
I was going to suggest looking at the rockers but is there a way to back off the adjusters on the 1200 hydraulic?

Oops, I wasn't thinking about the 1200 hydraulic valve adjustments...
 

Rednaxs60

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Hydraulic valves, no adjustment similar to a non-hydraulic lifter arrangement. Only adjustment is with shims. With the valve covers off, you are able to view the valves and when turning the engine can see the valves move, or not.
 

dan filipi

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[url=https://classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=222453#p222453:334w3k46 said:
Thombar » Yesterday, 5:19 pm[/url]":334w3k46]
Very cool Would it hurt anything to try moving rear wheel in reverse a little to see if engine is free that way?

That is what I would carefully try at this point while in 3rd gear and on center stand. Small engine rotation can be seen with a belt cover off, not so much with the 1200 cam holder (I don't think) with a valve cover off. Small movement can be seen also through the timing cap hole. Just need to find what is making rotation stuck so go easy and try to "feel" what's happening in the engine.
 

Rednaxs60

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To see a very small engine rotation could take out the timing mark cap and looking at the flywheel. You can use the stator bolt to determine if the engine is rotating. If you use the stator bolt turn it clockwise as if you are tightening the bolt.
 

Thombar

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Pulled starter, tested with cables working flawlessly. Connected to OE starter cable, w/ external ground, all good from starter button to starter. The sprocket and chain appear pristine and would only turn one way,(starter clutch)? Starter back on but all else undone. Started car w/ the battery Im using to fix bike, just to be sure strong enough.
I guess, while crash bars loose for exhaust drop to pull starter, I'll pull valve covers? Thx
 

Thombar

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Crank bolt wont budge w/ plugs out! Not putting weight on it just arm strenght w/ short boxend wrench as extention. Cranked fine last summer just never started. Been sheltered since, should have turned! Exhaust off, try to plug ports and fill cylinder w/ kerosene?

I did try to wiggle all rocker arms and none had any movement at all. Looks and feels new. Back to seized, cranking last summer w/ no fuel ? Does a 4 stroke lube cylinder wall w/ oil under the rings? And wouldnt the air filters have kept the moisture out above the rings? Why am I locked up?

I looked under the head to see into exhaust ports. On the left side, sitting on bike, the rear port was wet w/ the PB Blaster I sprayed in and the front was dry. I poured Marvelous mystery oil in front plug hole till almost filled. On the right side it was the same, front port was dry and rear wet. I poured MM oil in but it came out the exhaust port, so I poured MM oil into the rear and it came out the other exhaust port! I gently tapped on each rocker arm and tried to crank but no. Where am I?
 

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