1987 gl1200 w/ 17k seized?

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Thombar":3afavktb said:
Thank you DusterDude. I gently tapped on the rocker arms over the valves and I could feel the spring compress and valve move ever so slightly. Could a valve move out but stick going back in? Maybe I could lube top of valve while I tapped gently?
Lube the area where the stem goes into the valve guide.

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Is all there is to pulling head the head bolts and the timing belt and intakes? I have the new head gaskets. I have carb kits too, while Im in so deep.
 
Thanks for all that guys. I wouldnt try if not for yall! Since exhaust is already off and carbs need cleaned anyway I.ll pull both. Thx for being there, Tom
 
Pic labeled rf shows the obstruction. Once the heads were off I tried to crank and did same thing. Wasnt a valve allowing only one cycle. I havnt cleaned anything just wiped w/ dry rag. Others are perfect, poor lighting. It cranked last summer. Head gasket leaked a little straight antifreeze into that cylinder?
 

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Guys its really interesting to go back to the beginning and read all our posts. All the time and thought that got us here. Good to know people like you are out there in this world of "me me me". Be cool to rendevous somewhere so I could buy you all a beer, or two. Cheers!
 
That's a lot of buildup for antifreeze. Seems to me water got in there. Hope it's only surface rust.
The good news is since you didn't force crank past it the rings stand a better chance at being okay.
 
It sure is a lot of buildup for only sitting for a year. With rust that high in the cylinder, I would have expected a lot of water poured out when the head was pulled or the oil pan would be full of water. Rust that deep doesn't normally form on an engine that is inside a building just sitting.
 
I've noticed antifreeze much worse than water ...my vote is it can be cleaned up and will run fine ..motor was locked up cause this build up is above cylinder...clean it up and don't dig and the bile will live and run great I'd say
 
The antifreeze was not diluted, straight. Am hoping some of that buildup is that residue. There was NO water in it. Like green syrup!. Most of the minor discoloration where the rings touch disappeared when I wiped it with a small paint brush w/ Marvelous Mystery oil. I ordered a "dingleberry hone" for 75.5 bore hoping to minimizi it all. Try to set up a drill press horizontally? Sheeit! Maybe I can put that head back on and do a compression check for status? I already got the gaskets, gotta try!
 
About 3 yrs ago the original owner, Vet, died and gaxe bike to his doctor. Left outside but under its cover for bout year and a half when I bought it. Not running, fuel issues I guessed, but it would turn over. I drained tank,lines and carbs, but fuel pump was inop which was where I left it, indoors. This summer I install new pump and rebuild kit for petcock and before pulling carbs I had to try but no movement. If this cylinder holds up, the plan is to ride for months at a time. Its theraputic for me to ride, if I dont let everything else go and pay attention I'll die. Am disabled Vet whos been livin for family and country, hoping its my turn!
 
Has anyone heard about having to put the exact same head bolt back in the exact same hole?
 
[url=https://classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=222845#p222845:352a5p9s said:
pidjones » Wed Jul 28, 2021 6:21 pm[/url]":352a5p9s]
I would NOT hone it. just scrape the build-up off with blades. Move the piston to BDC and mask off the ring gap to keep grit out. Wipe thoroughly after.

I agree
 
Scrape it first, see where it's at. Any raised or pitted could damage the rings.

Head bolts can go in any hole, just make sure threads are clean inside and out with some lube so you get a good torque on them.
Honda moly grease is recommended in the manuals but any clean grease will do IME.
 
Was going to scrape w/ blade then mildly finish, only the the surface afflicted, w/ this and oil. No? Ordered one for 75.5 bore?
 

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