DadsWing'76
Member
Hey all!! I wonder if any of you can help me with this....
I am working on a 1976 GL 1000, I went to check the timing on it using a test light, as per my repair manual. I hooked up the test light to the #1&2 point and to the ground screw on that side as well. I noticed that the test light was already dimly lit almost as soon as I started to rotate the engine clockwise. It stayed lit up like that as I approached the F1 mark and once I was passed it, then lit up bright when I got to the F2 mark. Then went back to dim again once I passed the F2 mark. I know something is not right with that. I then hooked up to the #3&4 point and to the ground screw on that side. The test light was off and stayed off until just before the F2 mark aligned, and then went off as it passed. I'm not sure what is causing the test light to be dim almost continuously while on #1&2 breaker point, but I'm looking at it like a dimly lit tail light on a trailer...... a bad ground usually causes that dim taillight. Am I barking up the right tree? Is there any type of testing that I may be able to do to expose the problem?
On another note, I have bee thinking of upgrading the ignition to a Dynatek DS1-3. Good idea or bad? Has anyone here done this to their GL1000? Looking for some sort of review from those who have tried it out.
Thanks in advance for any info provided. :thanks:
I am working on a 1976 GL 1000, I went to check the timing on it using a test light, as per my repair manual. I hooked up the test light to the #1&2 point and to the ground screw on that side as well. I noticed that the test light was already dimly lit almost as soon as I started to rotate the engine clockwise. It stayed lit up like that as I approached the F1 mark and once I was passed it, then lit up bright when I got to the F2 mark. Then went back to dim again once I passed the F2 mark. I know something is not right with that. I then hooked up to the #3&4 point and to the ground screw on that side. The test light was off and stayed off until just before the F2 mark aligned, and then went off as it passed. I'm not sure what is causing the test light to be dim almost continuously while on #1&2 breaker point, but I'm looking at it like a dimly lit tail light on a trailer...... a bad ground usually causes that dim taillight. Am I barking up the right tree? Is there any type of testing that I may be able to do to expose the problem?
On another note, I have bee thinking of upgrading the ignition to a Dynatek DS1-3. Good idea or bad? Has anyone here done this to their GL1000? Looking for some sort of review from those who have tried it out.
Thanks in advance for any info provided. :thanks: