'78 - pinched another loaf - Johnny 5!

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Look better with the belt covers polished some? Valve covers tomorrow.
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I suppose a reminder. On my '82, after the engine was painted and ready to go, most of the engine is not visible under the carbs, valve covers and timing covers. Maybe the bit of streaking will not matter much?

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When I changed the engine color, I liked how it set off the chrome and polished aluminum, but again, most of the engine is covered:

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I think I see the streaking on the posted image. I'm a little surprised at the POR-15, I thought it was supposed to be good paint.
 
The POR-15 looked great in MG Maroon. The aluminum, not so much. It will not show much when assembled, I'm sure. Looks like the paint is good, it just doesn't look all that great. Valve covers tomorrow, then maybe put the water lines on and set the carbs on it to see.
 
Just to make me feel better about it, I set the carb rack down on it. There is a polished oil filter can for it, too. That will go on after the frame is on it (hopefully next week).
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I've been through ~80% of the wiring. Bypassed the alternator lead that goes through the right controls connector - 2 connections and ~2 meters of wire eliminated! After the wiring is all sorted, the next task available is to mount the frame to the engine, then the swing arm.
 
Today had a two-hour window for painting, and I took advantage of it by painting the air filter housing, tripple trees, kickstand, and tail light housing. Still so much more to do, but it looks like a week or two before another opportunity.
 
Reached the milestone of putting the frame back on the motor. Things might move faster now, but still held up by weather for painting. Was snowing this morning, but at 36F just keeping everything wet.
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Tip: Use some painter's tape to tape the circlip to the final drive assembly.

That way, it can fall off, get lost, and you can spend several hours searching for it before discovering that it got stepped on and bent, necessitating another order from Mother Honda.
 
Good tip, but I always use a new one. The last time I did this (on the Hunley) I bought a pack of them. Had to tear the garage apart to find it, though. I know a lot of people have problems removing/installing these. Just used cheap 90 degree circlip pliers and a screwdriver. I had more trouble getting the boot around the swingarm flange.
 
Tank in, front brake brackets on, some controls mounted. Synthetic ATF in forks. Finding which box I put things away in is taking time. Upper front engine mount goes on next, then some wiring snaked through an the shelter frame mounted. Need to get aluminum crush washers to hook up the brakes.
 
Wiring harness is in-place as well as shelter frame and a few other items including center and kick stands and their springs.

A note about the center stand spring (kick stand is much easier and can be done with brake spring pliers): I did this on the CB750F and it worked well on the GL1000 - pennys! I've seen the trick listed before and it works great. Handfull of pennys (or othe local smallest denomination coin or in a pinch washers) jammed between coils using slip-joint pliers to lever them in all the way (easiest done with the stand down). I put them in spiraled around on the 750, but it worked great just putting them inline on the GL1000. This gives enough elongation to the spring that it just lifts off and back on with the stand in the up position. Once re-installed, place the stand down and pull the coins out with needle nose pliers.

I hope to get the rear brake all plumbed and mounted plus the rear fender mounted and rewired so that the rear wheel can be mounted this week. A new battery is to arrive tomorrow, so finishing up the wiring can be completed. Some connectors have been left off intentionally to allow correct lengths when installed, but they are all ready for installation. I think that wounds due to Scotchlok use have all been healed, and all damaged connectors are replaced. Had to splice in connectors for the clutch switch as the switch had been removed and connectors cut at their exit fro the left control box. Replacement perch from ebay and wires/connectors from a junker control box now on.

Next week is a ship's reunion, so there will be zero progress then.
 
More today. Rear brake hooked up (not filled), Battery box mounted and most wiring to it done. Decided to try the Prestolite ignition. If it works, that saves me from scrounging up another point set. Haven't done the hookups in the headlight bucket yet. Still need to add one lug to a new positive battery cable. New battery due tomorrow. Rear wheel mounted (Yes, molly on the splines). Starting to look like a motorcycle. Shocks still need cleaned up and new rubbers mounted before they go on.
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More progress today. Did the headlight bucket wiring (had to splice in a new headlight connector as the original had been hacked off). Also had to turn and thread some adapter sleeves to go into the headlight ear sockets that the turn signal stalks normally fit in. I didn't want to buy original-type as I'm trying to keep the investment in this one minimal. Using Chinabay signals with 10mm stalks, so I turned and threaded short aluminum 14mm-10mm adapter sleeves. Battery came today, so I installed it and checked minimal things like lights. Wire wheel on the drill press made a world of difference in the appearance of the rear springs, so they are mounted now and I just pulled the dolly from under her. Need to put oil in the engine and install/fill the radiator. Then mount up the headers and muffler and see if she will fire. Hope to try that by early April.
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