83 1100 INterstate rework

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rryman

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Harrisonburg, Virginia
I have been working on a 83 Interstate that has spent more time sitting around than running since 83 since it had 44k actual on it when I got it in September this year. I have cleaned the gas tank, repaired the fuel sending unit, rebuilt the carbs, changed plugs, and still having some issues with the running. It's a little sluggish from a standing start, but once running, will cruise at 70-75 with no problem. One if the issues is when you get up to speed and back off the throttle to "cruise", there is what I call a "burbling sound" coming out the exhaust. The PO had the exhaust tips cut off flush with the mufflers, and it's LOUD. Maybe not loud to some folks, but way too loud for me. I have learned on this forum that there are baffles in the tailpipes that may have had something to do with the burbling sound, and possibly the performance. I'm currently looking for a stock set of mufflers. I have also bought new plug caps and wires, which came in yesterday and I am about to go to the garage and start putting the thing back together. Since we currently have about 4" of snow on the ground and still coming down, what better place to be than in the garage working on the bike and watching football games!!
I'll report back on whether or not the new plug wires and caps helped.
 
Randy,

If you want to cut down on the sound a little and stop the burbley sound, shove some steel wool into the mufflers. Just be careful letting anyone ride behind you because eventually, the steel wool will come out like an orange grenade! (Don't ask me how I know this! :eek: ) :head bang:
 
New Plugs and wires made a big difference for me when I first got my 83. Also, the burbling sound can definitely be cured with the stinger baffles in the stock mufflers. I know this because I pulled them out of mine recently and it started burbling. I have not decided whether to leave it that way or not.
 
Well, I got the new plug wires and caps installed, started it up just for a bit in the garage, and it didn't sound appreciably different than before. It has always acted somewhat cold natured at start up. Anyway, I've pulled the carbs again and gone through everything there and checking to make sure everything was done according to book and they look good as far as I'm concerned. Got to put them back next. probably be awhile until I can get in another test ride, due to the weather here.
May do a compression check next to see what's going on there.
Randy
 
If your sure all the jets are clean, all the rubber parts are in good condition, the floats are set right on then I'd put them back on.
Did you sync them?
If out of sync that will make a big big difference.
 
If your sure all the jets are clean, all the rubber parts are in good condition, the floats are set right on then I'd put them back on.
======I rechecked everything in the carb. One question step in the book (Howard Halaz carb book) was where it said to remove the "needle jet holder and needle jet. You may need a drift to punch the needle jet out from the top side of the carb." When I remove the needle jet and holder, and look down in the tube that this goes in, there appears to be a brass insert in the carb. When I shine a light through from the other side of the carb, it is clearly open. What am I missing here? I tried by tapping lightly on it with a punch and it didn't want to move. I didn't want to get carried away for fear of breaking something. If that piece does have to come out, what is there that needs cleaning.
As far as the floats, when I reinstalled them, I checked the float height per the same book, and they were right, so I didn't do any adjusting on them.
I did Sync the carbs with the gauges and they are in sync. I bought a set of dial gauges from Motion Pro for that along with the idle screw adjuster and special sync wrench, and by the way, each one of those are well worth their cost.
Randy.





Did you sync them
 
When I remove the needle jet and holder, and look down in the tube that this goes in, there appears to be a brass insert in the carb.
Click to expand...

I've never seen Howard's book but I've redone 3 of these racks.
If I'm understanding the part your referring to I think your on track with that brass insert, a couple usually just fall out and the others just need a slight push to come out unless the carbs are very corroded.
I agree, there's nothing there to clean but can you post a pic to be sure I'm understanding?
 
I'll get some pics tomorrow and send. Bedtime here on this side of the country! About to freeze today at Fed Ex Field watching the Redskins hand the game to the Saints!!
Randy
 
If as you say the tips were cut off flush with the muffler then you need to either replace them with another stock set or cut the mufflers off at the header and put some after market or Harley take offs on. Requires a bit of mod work but can be done and will quieten them and do away with the gurgling sound. Most of the muffling takes place in the smaller section leading away from the larger section of the exhaust system, the "tail pipe" has an insert in it that has baffles and packing and if that's been cut off then that's it. Did the PO leave any of the tail pipe section? If so you can try an extension, that may cut down on some of the noise and the gurgling sound. You can get extensions from an Auto Parts Store and some of them have internal baffles in them.

When you were checking the carb situation did you replace the fuel filter? Those cause more problems that you can imagine. Also at this age for the bike it's a good idea to replace the fuel lines too.
 
Thanks for the info on the mufflers, Neil. There is not enough left to attach anything to. I had talked to a muffler shop about adding extensions to it, even though they would be aluminized steel extensions. But since finding out all I have about the baffling in the extension, I'm probably going to just try to find a stock set to replace them with. I've got some feelers out around here for some and something might turn up, even if I have to buy a whole "parts bike" to get them.

I replaced the fuel line from the tank to the fuel pump, but left the short one from the pump to the carbs, after I had checked it over and flushed it. New fuel filters also. I believe the one on it was the original based on how it looked.
Randy
 
Hi Randy, just noticed you are in Harrisonburg Virginia. I'm in that area quite a bit for my company and if you find one around my area of Pennsylvania I can get it for you and save you shipping costs.
I can keep an eye out for you if you'd like, I'm on other wing forums.
 
Hey, that would be good. York isn't that far away. Have an old Air Force buddy that lives in York that's a retired trooper. If you find something, let me know.
Thanks
 
rryman":39nqgt32 said:
Hey, that would be good. York isn't that far away. Have an old Air Force buddy that lives in York that's a retired trooper. If you find something, let me know.
Thanks
Click to expand...

Did my time in the Air Force too. 1970 to 1976, 3 tours in Nam ... got out an E6. Ahhhh, memories :sensored:
 
Here's the pic of the carb. Anyone see anything unusual? I still can't see why they want you to remove the "needle jet" in the bottom of the carb that the vacuum slide needle goes through.

01 carb resize.jpg



02 carb resize.jpg



04 carb resize.jpg
 
Oh that jet has tiny holes on the side of the tube part that needs to be cleaned and to make sure they are all open it must be removed, I mean the part that your screw driver is pointing to.
 
.....that jet has tiny holes on the side of the tube part that needs to be cleaned and to make sure they are all open............

====They are all open and clean. Still can't figure out why those little sleeves in the bottomof the carb that the vacuum slide needle goes through needs to be removed.posting.php?mode=reply&f=8&t=38#
 
I dont see why either other than making sure they arent gummed up where the needle slides thru but that's easily cleaned with a shot of carb spray and compressed air while in the carb body.
 
Well, I have reinstalled the carbs on the bike, and it started right up. I "imagined" that it seemed to run a little better after it warmed up just a bit, but can't be sure. I reset all the idle screws to 3 turns out, but haven't sync'd the carbs yet. Probably do that Saturday, since that's a nice warm, inside job!
Randy
 

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