83 interstate carb jets

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kerryb

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Hi, I'm trying to locate info on stock jets for vb48c carbs on my '83 gl1100i. It seems the PO did a carb rebuild using non-keihin parts. Everything looks new, but the float valves won't seal ( marked 2.0), and the jets don't have the keihin logo on them. This makes me think they are aftermarket, and I don't know the stock sizes. I have randakks deluxe rebuild kit and howard halaz's book, but info on getting genuine keihin jets is eluding me. It seems I will have to spend over $200 to get new genuine honda float valves and seats, so knowing if I have the right jets would also be helpful.
Can you help me locate this info? I have searched sirius, Randakks, Jets-r-us with no luck so far.

Current jets are marked 145 and 35 respectively. The bike ran ok with the current setup but it smoked, and ran much better just as the bowls began to run out of fuel after petcock was turned off ( supports my guess that the bowls were too full from leaking float valves)
IMG_6127.JPG


(Fixed pic orientation, df)
 

dan filipi

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Yeh boy the gas level is way high. Sorry I can't help you out. Have you tried online search for a complete rack? Might be a few hundred but might get some good spare parts also.
 

joedrum

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Hmmm PO probably put new float valves in old seats ..this is huge gamble to seal or you have to work them to get them to seal

JP winger bought from sabre cycle complete rebuild set for 82 carbs and had great success after one take back off where one carb wasn't working quite as good ad others went through pit it back on and running great ...so who knows on stock carbs I'm thinking he changed jets and all
 

kerryb

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Well, it seems I have the correct size jets, just not keihin brand. Today I have been trying to get the existing needle valves to seal by polishing the seats and adjusting the float tangs. No luck yet, but I'll try again tomorrow. The worst that can happen is I ruin a part that doesn't work anyway!
I looked at the Sabre cycle stuff, but I've heard too many horror stories to risk my time and money on them.
 

mcgovern61

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Try this....

Take the rubber tip on the needle and run it across emory cloth or 400 grit sand paper gently while spinning the needle (same angle as the needle tip). I have had even the OEM needle tips get hard and not seal.
 

julimike54

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I've been reading several of Mike Nixon articles from his web page

https://www.motorcycleproject.com/index.html#102

and you may be suffering from the aftermarket parts. He's stated that half the floats made are either defective (leak) or are made too heavy (materials). There are many more, but I thought maybe look in there and see if he recommends vendors.
 

kerryb

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Come to think of it I haven't actually tested the floats to see if they float!
Everything else is beautifully clean and well put together...

I tried polishing the seats and scuffing the tips with 2000 grit paper, still no luck. Pretty sure tomorrow I'll place an order for new needles and seats at the local honda dealer for oem parts at $50/carb!
 

mcgovern61

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2000 grit may not be enough to break the surface and will more likely polish the tip. That is why I use emory cloth or 400 grit. It doesn't take much at that grit to get it right, but you can check right away by dropping the tip into the seat and blowing in through the fuel inlet pipe.
 

kerryb

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[url=https://classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=220401#p220401:1k1x5664 said:
mcgovern61 » Sun Dec 20, 2020 3:20 pm[/url]":1k1x5664]
2000 grit may not be enough to break the surface and will more likely polish the tip. That is why I use emory cloth or 400 grit. It doesn't take much at that grit to get it right, but you can check right away by dropping the tip into the seat and blowing in through the fuel inlet pipe.

There was no buildup on the rubber tips, they were clean, but two of them had a slight groove in them. I will try the 400 grit to be sure. I put the needle in a vinyl tube to grip it in my lathe and then spin it to avoid sanding it unevenly. I think the real issue is the poor seat finish, and my polishing efforts haven't resulted in much improvement. I'm using a wood dowel sharpened at the same angle as the tip. Then spin that stick in the lathe and hold the seat against it. Sort of like lapping a valve.
 
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