BObber build

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made2care

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A couple of questions. Im slimming down the bike with a redesign. I don’t need the tachometer and is there anyway to plug the hole on the fuel pump where the tach cable connects? Really don’t want to replace fuel pump with aftermarket.
Thanks
 

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pidjones

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I guess you can spin an aluminum plug to replace the cable. Really, if you are going this far why not have a cover machined to replace the pump/drive (still need to cover the worm on the cam shaft) and go to a low pressure electric?

If just omitting the tach drive, I'd remove the gear (and seal) from the case too just to eliminate unnecessary spinning parts.
 

made2care

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For now I just cut the cable and capped the portion that fits in pump. Later I will probably switch to electric.
Thanks
 

DaveKamp

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If it were me... I'd probably throw a piece of aluminum in the lathe or mill and make a cover, but I'd probably also find a way to tuck a little reluctance sensor (coil and polepiece) and something to slip on the shaft, to use as the electronic signal for a little digital tach... but I don't have a GL of your vintage, so I can't rightfully say how I'd do it.
 

brianinpa

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There are freeze plugs in various sizes that you can probably find one to fit. One it's in, a little JB Weld to make it semi-permanent, sand and paint.
 

made2care

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Question on wiring.
The 2 blue wires on this aftermarket switch is for the new headlight (3 prong)
The OEM wires going to the headlight are blue, green, white. On the OEM switch I have blue, white and Blue/white stripe ( i checked the blue/white striped wire on the schematic and this wire leads from the OEM switch to the starter.
So..... I only have two wires on the back of my new switch (does not have high/low beam) Which oem wires will go to my new switch?
hope you can help.
thank you

Update! I have not tested it yet but from what I'm seeing on the schematic, the blue/white striped wire might be the power, so this will go to new switch. The other two remaining wires white and blue are the high or low beam, so either one of those will also go to the switch , then just not connect one.
Thoughts?
 

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made2care

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Surely there’s someone on here that can guide me through some wiring. I have most of it figured out but am stumped with how to connect some of my aftermarket switch wires to the oem switch wires. If anyone can help, I would greatly appreciate it.
Thank you
 

Dusterdude

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Invest in a powerprobe 3,it will save you a lot of headaches

Sent from my LM-X420 using Tapatalk
 

brianinpa

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[url=https://classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=221845#p221845:11fx8ncm said:
made2care » Tue Apr 13, 2021 12:46 pm[/url]":11fx8ncm]
Surely there’s someone on here that can guide me through some wiring. I have most of it figured out but am stumped with how to connect some of my aftermarket switch wires to the oem switch wires. If anyone can help, I would greatly appreciate it.
Thank you

When I try to wire aftermarket switches into existing wires, I've always had problems. That's why I haven't been saying much
 

made2care

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[url=https://www.classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=221848#p221848:hnnznred said:
brianinpa » 22 minutes ago[/url]":hnnznred]
[url=https://classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=221845#p221845:hnnznred said:
made2care » Tue Apr 13, 2021 12:46 pm[/url]":hnnznred]
Surely there’s someone on here that can guide me through some wiring. I have most of it figured out but am stumped with how to connect some of my aftermarket switch wires to the oem switch wires. If anyone can help, I would greatly appreciate it.
Thank you

When I try to wire aftermarket switches into existing wires, I've always had problems. That's why I haven't been saying much
Lol, that’s gives me confidence!
 

D-50Dave

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I'm watching this, too. I have to replace my right Start button switch, which has 9 wires, with an after market which has 6 wires. :shock:
 

pidjones

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D-50Dave":2l5ft5mc said:
I'm watching this, too. I have to replace my right Start button switch, which has 9 wires, with an after market which has 6 wires. :shock:
Note that on the '78 and '79 GL1000, two wires went to the right switch in Europe for the headlight ON/OFF. The feed came from one phase of the alternator. In the US it was just jumpered in the plug.
 

brianinpa

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[url=https://classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=221849#p221849:1ir04si7 said:
made2care » Tue Apr 13, 2021 9:06 pm[/url]":1ir04si7]
[url=https://www.classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=221848#p221848:1ir04si7 said:
brianinpa » 22 minutes ago[/url]":1ir04si7]
[url=https://classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=221845#p221845:1ir04si7 said:
made2care » Tue Apr 13, 2021 12:46 pm[/url]":1ir04si7]
Surely there’s someone on here that can guide me through some wiring. I have most of it figured out but am stumped with how to connect some of my aftermarket switch wires to the oem switch wires. If anyone can help, I would greatly appreciate it.
Thank you

When I try to wire aftermarket switches into existing wires, I've always had problems. That's why I haven't been saying much
Lol, that’s gives me confidence!

I tried it with horns in my Vetter fairing. I think my problem was the way the horns were grounded and I didn't have them hooked up correctly. Now, I rewire whatever I am doing and install a relay as well.
 

dan filipi

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I'll refer to the wiring diagrams to do this, along with a meter or test light to check continuity and voltage.
Disconnect the battery negative until you're ready to find which wire is the positive or negative, but the wire diagrams should show this.
All wiring diagrams we have- https://classicgoldwings.com/forum/galle ... um_id=1877

So basically modding over a different switch you need to first test or "tone out" what each wire does at the old switch, then match that on the new switch. In this case we have the wiring diagrams to find this. The clymer manual indicates what each switch position activates. What is the question you have so far?

What bike is this for?
 

made2care

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[url=https://classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=221857#p221857:1qrhh9b0 said:
dan filipi » Today, 9:27 am[/url]":1qrhh9b0]
I'll refer to the wiring diagrams to do this, along with a meter or test light to check continuity and voltage.
Disconnect the battery negative until you're ready to find which wire is the positive or negative, but the wire diagrams should show this.
All wiring diagrams- https://classicgoldwings.com/forum/galle ... um_id=1877

So basically modding over a different switch you need to first test or "tone out" what each wire does at the old switch, then match that on the new switch. In this case we have the wiring diagrams to find this. The clymer manual indicates what each switch position activates. What is the question you have so far?

What bike is this for?

bike is a 1980 Gl 1100. I've traced some wires and copied those from the oem switch to the aftermarket switch but i have leftover wires from the oem and do not know where these go or I should say, the schematic shows where they go on the oem switch but the aftermarket switch has fewer connections. The switch I am trying to wire is the turn signal/ headlight/ horn switch. You can see above the aftermarket switch with fewer wires. I can take a pic of the oem switch. There is no room on the aftermarket switch for the gray wire, brown/white stripe and the indicators wires (orange and then a light blue)
 

made2care

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Here is a close up of the oem turn signal switch on a 1980 gl1100. This is not showing the horn or headlight wires.
The light blue with stripe goes to turn signal and same for the orange / white stripe.
The solid blue and solid orange go to the indicators on instrument panel and since I did away with that, I guess I leave these alone. There is a gray wire which I believe goes from switch to turn signal relay. And the brown / white stripe goes to ignition switch. I do not know where to wire the brown/ white wire on the aftermarket switch which only has 3 wires coming from the turn signal. Notice this brown/ white wire has little jumpers or loops. I have no idea what that means.
 

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