Carburetor Overhaul, GL1100

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Any method of pulling them is as good as another as long as the orifice itself is undamaged. You can even tap the bore for a screw-in slow jet. This I know because I tried it. Many caveats to the process so I don't publish it but I'm just sayin'...

I designed my little dingus for repetitive use--I can have the slow jets out of a set of CBX carbs in about ten minutes and there's no guesswork. My daughter could use it, that is if she wasn't so picky about her fingernails.

There are carb builders out there who want you to think that their way is the only way and that you simply must buy their little booklet or video. This is pure hogwash, to which the literally tens of thousands of perfectly good running DIY carbs out there, whose owners flew by the seats of their pants--and in heavy crosswinds to boot, will attest. Given sufficient time and a whole lot of foul language, a competent tool jockey will have the job done.

We're here for the guy who merely doesn't have the resources or time to tackle them.

OSC
 
oldschoolcarbs":wga2lo8h said:
I designed my little dingus for repetitive use--

:blush: Must...not....reply.....must...keep...voices...quiet..... :smilie_happy: :smilie_happy:

I appreciate all the info you're providing on these carbs! :thanks:
 
AApple":1gddnodj said:
oldschoolcarbs":1gddnodj said:
I designed my little dingus for repetitive use--

:blush: Must...not....reply.....must...keep...voices...quiet..... :smilie_happy: :smilie_happy:

I appreciate all the info you're providing on these carbs! :thanks:
Absolutely!

Information is the key to keeping these old dogs on the road!
 
Thanks for the great writeup and photos. I'm rebuilding my 1100 carbs using Randakks kit and manual but I decided to check this out. I missed the little oring by the diaghram . If you hadn' pointed that out I would have reassembled the rack and installed it without the oring :Awe: ! That would have hurt. You have saved at least 1 person a lot of trouble. Thanks again.
 
Hi Roady, It may be awhile before I can answer that. When I' m finished with the carbs the plan is to replace the timing belts , hoses and clean and renew the appearance of the engine while I have the carbs off. The bike is an 81 interstate with 19,000 miles and in pretty good shape as it spent most of its life indoors. I'm thinking at this point I may go right through it before I put it on the road as it's going to be my ride for a long time. Thanks for your interest. This is my first 'wing' so if you can pass on any wisdom as to what I should be looking at or doing it would be appreciated. I wouldn't have been able to tackle this project(at least not very well) if it weren't for this site and guys like you who take the time to share their knowledge and encouragement. Thanks again, Steve.
 
sorry it has been so long since i was last here. thanks for every ones help. i set the floats the way u described on here. put back on & gas millage was worse & synced the carbs. when the carbs were off & set i noticed that when turned upside down that the top of the float would hit the bottom of the carb. so i took them back off. i have rebuilt many of carbs. i reset them like what most carbs would be set. when most carbs r set properly the top of float is parallel to the bottom of the carb. put back on & didnt want to post this till i had some miles on it. i did this dec-jan, i now have 12,000 m iles on it since. milage is 38-40 city-hiway & 45 on back roads where u r going55-60. milage is great, runs great, smooth, i was worried if it would be to lean, but it isnt. like i said i wanted to ride it a while before i posted this. again thanks for the help & all the pics, it all really helped a lot.
 
Since this post was made by Roady we've found out the generally accepted method of setting float levels at a carb slant won't always set the fuel level where it needs to be.
In a perfect world with good Honda needles and seats as well as floats that weigh what they did when new, then the general method may be ok but it's still good to verify gas level in the bowls after setting them.
 
The final float level is all that matters. The 15.5mm level assumes (bad word) float weight is perfect.
What does a new OEM float weigh
3 of my floats weigh 7.89g and 1 weighs 7.87g
What should the float level be relative to the top of the float bowl?
That is the bottom line!
 
Some crud I discovered today. I'll definitely be using this write up to right up my carbs :smilie_happy:
 

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[url=https://www.classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=171659#p171659:kst01x3c said:
zman » Today, 8:20 am[/url]":kst01x3c]
My mistake was using the old float needles, they looked good but had weak springs and intermittently leaked, for 25 bucks well worth replacing.
Did you get new Honda needles with seats for $25? Not bad if so.
 
[url=https://classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=171682#p171682:3ea0c4b1 said:
dan filipi » Mon Apr 11, 2016 6:40 pm[/url]":3ea0c4b1]
[url=https://www.classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=171659#p171659:3ea0c4b1 said:
zman » Today, 8:20 am[/url]":3ea0c4b1]
My mistake was using the old float needles, they looked good but had weak springs and intermittently leaked, for 25 bucks well worth replacing.
Did you get new Honda needles with seats for $25? Not bad if so.
No not actual Honda part(least I think not)..got them from cycle recycle pt2..have a good selection of carb parts, think they were 6 something each, may have been more with shipping but cheap enough, they have been great so far.
 
Never had the pleasure. :nea: K & L, has always been great to deal with! :yes: They have great needle, & seat assembly's, with float bowel gasket's. :good: Most times if NOBODY has been in there, since they left the factory, these part's, & a good cleaning, is all they need to be put right! :whistling:
 
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