Clutch cable

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Terry

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I ordered new cables for my 1000. When I looked at the clutch cable it is completely different from my 1100. It appears you have to remove an access plate to get to the business end of it. The only thing that looks tough is space is very tight.
Has anyone done their's?
How much of pain was it?
 

aussiegold

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did one or two last week. ( dont ask ... :smilie_happy: )
some say to tie the new one to the old one . no need to. what you DO have to do is remove a few things to make it easier.

remove the air cleaner box, ( makes it easier to see putting the new one in
on the right hand side, take the engine breather pipe out.
unplug the brake light wires and move them out of the way.

back the adjuster on the lever all the way off. i take the lever out and then remove the cable.
remove the clutch cover on the rear of the engine. bit tight, but it is just two 10 mil bolts.
screw the adjuster, (where the cable goes in ) all the way in.
i used long nosed pliers to get the cable out of the arm. fiddly... :wave:
pull that end of the cable out. the adjuster just sits in the housing.
remove the cable from the bottom. that is, by feeding it out, down between the frame and the tank.

get the lever end of the new one, feed it up between the tank and the frame until you can get the bottom adjuster into the housing.
IMPORTANT....
the cable routing ...
up over the frame in front of the tank.
it goes out between the radiator cap and the headstock, around the steering head and up out between the choke and the instrument cluster.
go back to the bottom end and make sure the adjuster is seated correctly and screwed all the way IN
get the cable into its slot
go up to the handlebar end , i always fit the cable into the lever and then put the lever into the mounting.
i take most of the slack up at the bottom adjuster and " fine adjust " at the lever.

hope this helps.
 

Terry

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[url=https://classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=157503#p157503:w1h050jv said:
aussiegold » Today, 12:13 am[/url]":w1h050jv]
did one or two last week. ( dont ask ... :smilie_happy: )
some say to tie the new one to the old one . no need to. what you DO have to do is remove a few things to make it easier.

remove the air cleaner box, ( makes it easier to see putting the new one in
on the right hand side, take the engine breather pipe out.
unplug the brake light wires and move them out of the way.

back the adjuster on the lever all the way off. i take the lever out and then remove the cable.
remove the clutch cover on the rear of the engine. bit tight, but it is just two 10 mil bolts.
screw the adjuster, (where the cable goes in ) all the way in.
i used long nosed pliers to get the cable out of the arm. fiddly... :wave:
pull that end of the cable out. the adjuster just sits in the housing.
remove the cable from the bottom. that is, by feeding it out, down between the frame and the tank.

get the lever end of the new one, feed it up between the tank and the frame until you can get the bottom adjuster into the housing.
IMPORTANT....
the cable routing ...
up over the frame in front of the tank.
it goes out between the radiator cap and the headstock, around the steering head and up out between the choke and the instrument cluster.
go back to the bottom end and make sure the adjuster is seated correctly and screwed all the way IN
get the cable into its slot
go up to the handlebar end , i always fit the cable into the lever and then put the lever into the mounting.
i take most of the slack up at the bottom adjuster and " fine adjust " at the lever.

hope this helps.


Actually your response was refreshingly helpful and addressed the topic exactly. A nice change of pace from the usual replies on here.
However, specifically, I was really only concerned with the "confinement of working space" as I know how to route and adjust it.
 

slabghost

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If you can palm a basketball pretty much everything is going to be very hard. Did you miss this part?
remove the air cleaner box, ( makes it easier to see putting the new one in
on the right hand side, take the engine breather pipe out.
unplug the brake light wires and move them out of the way.
 

Terry

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[url=https://classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=157520#p157520:hdt0tqbg said:
slabghost » Today, 8:25 am[/url]":hdt0tqbg]
If you can palm a basketball pretty much everything is going to be very hard. Did you miss this part?
remove the air cleaner box, ( makes it easier to see putting the new one in
on the right hand side, take the engine breather pipe out.
unplug the brake light wires and move them out of the way.


No, I didn't miss it.
 

dan filipi

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Actually your response was refreshingly helpful and addressed the topic exactly. A nice change of pace from the usual replies on here.
However, specifically, I was really only concerned with the "confinement of working space" as I know how to route and adjust it.

Don't understand what your question is :headscratch:

Yes it's a tight working space, sometimes moving or removing something helps to make it easier. Both were answered.
 

aussiegold

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:BigGrin: i might have gotten carried away a little with my reply....
getting the rear cover off can be tight, but with the right spanner it is easier from the left hand side. i gave a detailed answer because a common question for the 1000 involves the routing. :good:
 

rob.lafady

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Did mine about a month ago, snapped while riding - made an interesting ride back home... - I didn't remove any of that, just worked it through, it was tight, but it went ok. The hardest part was removing the plate from the rear of the engine, but once I found the second bolt it was a price of cake.
 

bronko37

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I also did mine without removing any extras. Just the two bolts on the back. I also had to dress the end of the cable to get it to fit in the key slot, but I had an aftermarket cable. You shouldn't have any issues other than the tight work area. Pretty straight forward job really.
 
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