Front Brake Question

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marcusknight

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I have a 1984 GL1200 Standard. My front brake has been acting funny since I bought it a couple years back. I find it takes way too much squeezing to get any stopping pressure on the front brake. I have to squeeze it almost totally against the handle grip before it starts to do anything. Way to much squeezing than any other bike I have had. What's funny is if I squeeze it several times in rapid succession, it will build up more pressure, and require a little less squeezing then. That being the case, I am wondering what the fault is. My instinct is that the brake lines need to be replaced. I complained about this problem a few years ago and a local shop replaced or rebuilt the master cylinder parts. But that didn't do much if anything. Bleeding did nothing. Pads are good. I am thinking the next step is replacing the brake lines. Thoughts?
 
Bad hoses usually prevent the brakes from releasing before they prevent braking. However, you will want to overhaul the calipers and replace the brake hoses just to be safe. A local industrial hydraulic hose builder made factory duplicates of my brake hoses for $50.00, with the correct angled metric fittings and all! I asked him about using braided SS and he asked me why I would want to spend double, when the factory hose he uses is rated at 600 PSI and will last another 20-30 years. I couldn't very well argue with that, lol!
 
[url=https://classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=212321#p212321:2ykyi2ef said:
marcusknight » Yesterday, 12:04 pm[/url]":2ykyi2ef]
...takes way too much squeezing to get any stopping pressure ... almost totally against the handle grip before it starts to do anything. ... if I squeeze it several times in rapid succession, it will build up more pressure, and require a little less squeezing then....a local shop replaced or rebuilt the master cylinder parts. But that didn't do much if anything. Bleeding did nothing.

Having to pump the brakes to build pressure is a clear indication that the master cylinder is not moving enough fluid to act on the caliper... but wait...
The master cylinder's volume doesn't just 'change'.

That means, something else has... and there's really only two parts left: the caliper, and the lines going to the caliper.

The caliper doesn't arbitrarily change volume, either. It CAN retract... and it will... if something PUSHES it back... like a warped rotor, or a caliper bracket that's flexing under load. It's not common on a well-built system, but if the caliper's suspension is bound up, or there's slack in the wheel bearings, etc., it can push the piston back into the caliper body, hence, it'll take several cycles of the master to push it back into contact with the disk.

The hoses SHOULDN'T arbitrarily change volume, either, but something I noted to my airbrake students in all my classes, is that a hose is really just a tank that's been made really skinny, and really long. In the case of hydraulics, a small-ID line will have a pressure-capacity advantage over a large ID, because the large ID has more internal surface to yield greater wall tension, in brake systems, the ID is small for that purpose, and a dozen other good reasons... one being that a small ID line can be made to fit through all sorts of tight spots using bent metallic tubing...
But braking systems work under high pressures, practically always need a flexible section to allow for suspension travel. The downside of a flexible line, is that no matter how new it is, it will ALWAYS expand slightly under pressure... and as they age, they tend to be a bit less strong, hence, they expand more... and the brake feel gets really mushy.

I believe this to be your most likely issue...

But I wouldn't recommend just changing the line. I would pull ALL the calipers, flush and rebuild them, flush out the master cylinders and hard lines, and replace all the flexible lines. After that, you should be excellent for another 30 years.

BTW... Don't believe what the 'good books' tell you: PLUMBING is the root of all evil. :rant:
 
So you you pump it a few times, then hold, does it stay in that position, or does it slowly go to the handlebars?
 
The lines are old and expanding, OR the brake pads are saturated with brake fluid, fork oil, or some other lubricating substance (greased owl crap?)

Pull the front calipers and check the pads if you haven't already. Clean the rotors and pads with Brake-kleen before you re-install them. If still no brakes, the lines become primary suspects.
 

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