Gl 1200 Secondary Air System-USA models

[backlander]

There was some small gearing changes between the 84-85 models to the 86-87 models, These changes occurred in the secondary primary reduction and the first and fifth gear. They were very minor changes, Final Drive ratio, wheel and tire size remained the same throughout the 1200 series.

 

[Ansimp]

bronko37 » Wed Feb 04, 2015 9:53 am[/url]":2cei1vxg]

Ansimp » Tue Feb 03, 2015 5:53 pm[/url]":2cei1vxg]
Excellent :good:
How much for a set shipped to Oz? :yes:

If it all works well we can work out widdlin you up a set Ans...

Sounds good let me know :thanks:

 

[bronko37]

I been studying my manuals for my carb rebuild, too cold out to actually work on it. Can you guys explain what the "starter arm" or "starter valve" on these carbs does? It shows that I should disassemble this part but i see no orings in my manual for it. Further, I am not sure of its actual function. :thanks:

 

[backlander]

Never heard that term used, is this what your talking about.

 

[bronko37]

backlander » Wed Feb 04, 2015 11:52 pm[/url]":1fgb7krl]
Never heard that term used, is this what your talking about. View attachment 1

I believe that is the guy Mike. My manual refers to this part as a starter arm and starter valve. Is it necessary to disassemble this during the rebuild for cleaning? What does it actually do?

 

[backlander]

I looked in my Honda Service manual and it also calls it the starter valve. Don't see any 0-rings internal on the breakdown, just a spring and valve seat. Manual does say to clean and check for wear or damage. I remember not being able to get mine out because the starter arm linkage would not disassemble, froze solid but it operated freely to and fro, it made it impossible to remove the valve because the valve has to come straight out and the arm is blocking it. If your linkage will come apart, I'd say clean it. That valve replaces the choke plate on the 1200's by increasing the fuel to air ratio helping the engine to start better in cold conditions.

 

[Ansimp]

Looks like the choke on my CBR carbies which would be an enriched/starter valve :yes:

 

[bronko37]

Got it guys :good:

Im hoping for some tolerable weather this weekend so I can get out into the garage and work on this rack. Need to check that off my to do list, which is longer than I would like it to be. I have some easy stuff to do but, slow n steady one thing at a time.

 

[bronko37]

Ok guys I had a great weekend of working on the bikes. I got the carb rack completely cleaned, rebuilt and re-installed in the machine with no secondary air system. I have a video I'm uploading to YouTube that I will try to post later, takin forever on that upload. I removed my pilot screws and counted the turns to seat them before removing them. Here is what I found to be the factory settings.

Screw 1: 3.5 turns
Screw 2: 2 7/8 turns (was just shy of 3 turns)
Screw 3: 3 turns
Screw 4: 2.5 turns

My question is should I reset all of the screws to my findings or should I set them off of the factory recommended 3.5 turns per my manual? When I rebuilt the 76 rack I simply set all the screws to the factory recommendation and then synced the carbs and everything is good. I am not sure why these screws are all so far apart from the factory recommendation. Would Honda have used the pilot screws in the synchronization process? My gut tells me to go to the recommended setting per the manual of 3.5 turns and sync but I dunno. What would you guys do?

I currently have them set to my factory findings as posted above...

 

[slabghost]

Manual setting is just the baseline. If you start with that it will run. But they should then be adjusted to get the most rpm from the motor one at a time returning idle back to 1000rpm each time. Do all of it twice and you will likely have the screws at the original settings you observed before removing them.

 

[joedrum]

go ahead and try it there no good reason not to ... but i would plan on adjusting things with you want to thurally work with the carbs good ...you seem to have all the info......as per ?... the scews and all setting are really tied together more so on stock cv carbs than other kinds of carbs

 

[slabghost]

You can get a cheap led gear indicator and hook up to the switch. nice thing to have.

 

[bronko37]

Perhaps I am not getting all the bang for my buck then out of my 76, even tho it seems to run pretty well I just have the screws set the the books starting point on it.

I read and re read, then read one more time on the process of setting the pilot screws for the 84. I get how to execute the procedure but I don't really understand exactly what it is that I am doing. Also, the book recommends using a more sensitive tachometer as because you should be making adjustments per 50rpm change up or down. Is this how you guys do it or do you just use the bikes tach? I am sure some of you are tuning pros and just do it by ear but I am still not even sure what it is that I am doing here or why. Some guidance on this step would be great. I am not doing this tomorrow or anything, I am still waiting on my new fuel and air filters to arrive. :thanks:

 

[bronko37]

joedrum » Mon Feb 09, 2015 12:51 pm[/url]":1yjz5hvv]
go ahead and try it there no good reason not to ... but i would plan on adjusting things with you want to thurally work with the carbs good ...you seem to have all the info......as per ?... the scews and all setting are really tied together more so on stock cv carbs than other kinds of carbs

I am getting my information out of a Clymer manual Joe,

 

[slabghost]

bronko37 » Mon Feb 09, 2015 1:13 pm[/url]":1dylei69]
Perhaps I am not getting all the bang for my buck then out of my 76, even tho it seems to run pretty well I just have the screws set the the books starting point on it.

I read and re read, then read one more time on the process of setting the pilot screws for the 84. I get how to execute the procedure but I don't really understand exactly what it is that I am doing. Also, the book recommends using a more sensitive tachometer as because you should be making adjustments per 50rpm change up or down. Is this how you guys do it or do you just use the bikes tach? I am sure some of you are tuning pros and just do it by ear but I am still not even sure what it is that I am doing here or why. Some guidance on this step would be great. I am not doing this tomorrow or anything, I am still waiting on my new fuel and air filters to arrive. :thanks:

what you are doing basically is adjusting the air fuel mixture to where it burns best. The procedure is in the manuals. I do not go as far as the idle drop procedure as I feel that is counter productive and too lean.

 

[bronko37]

I did a bunch of research last night on how to adjust the pilot screws. Here is the basic idea that I have from what I have watched on line and read.

Step 1: Start with the screws at the stock setting. On carb number 1 adjust the screw in until the bike labors (count turns from seat), Adjust screw out until the bike labors(count turns from seat), adjust the screw to the center of the range

Step2: Re-adjust the idle

Step 3: Repeat steps 1 and 2 in sequential order on all 4 carbs

Step 4: Syncronize the carburators

Step 5: Ride the bike, read the plugs, and make minor adjustments 1/2 turn max at a time until everything feels right.

Does this procedure sound OK? I do have a small flat spot off idle on my 76, I should probably do the same procedure on it since all the pilot screws are set to the factory book recommendation with no adjustments made to them other than carb sync.

 

[slabghost]

I don't know how or where you found that procedure but it makes less sense to me than to leave them at the base setting. Start at one carb with the bike warm and idling. Use bike tach or add on or just listen close and adjust the screw to the highest rpm you can get. Set idle back where it was to start then go to the next carb and set it to the highest idle you can. Continue the procedure for all four carbs. Then do it all again as each carb adjustment affects the other 3. Carb synch is unaffected by this so if it was right to begin with it will still be right.

 

[dan filipi]

To me, adjusting them to highest rpm you can get tells me the engine is happiest and burning the best it can.
I have fiddled with the pilot screws on the 1100 rack all different ways, set a bit rich, set a bit lean, always came back to highest rpm got me the best idle.

 

[bronko37]

slabghost » Tue Feb 10, 2015 10:51 am[/url]":2u5kqafn]
I don't know how or where you found that procedure but it makes less sense to me than to leave them at the base setting. Start at one carb with the bike warm and idling. Use bike tach or add on or just listen close and adjust the screw to the highest rpm you can get. Set idle back where it was to start then go to the next carb and set it to the highest idle you can. Continue the procedure for all four carbs. Then do it all again as each carb adjustment affects the other 3. Carb synch is unaffected by this so if it was right to begin with it will still be right.

I know my carb sync is going to be a little out of whack from taking the carbs all apart. I had to remove the sync screws and springs in the center when I was cleaning everything. I did visual bench top sync so I know they will be close but they will need adjustment for sure.

I thought that the carb sync would also be affected when making pilot screw adjustments. I understand the procedure that you are describing slabghost but I dont see how it will ever come together and be right since everytime you adjust the pilot on one carb it affects the other 3. It seems like it will be a never ending tail chasing contest. Perhaps I am over thinking this whole thing but it seems like such a critical step. I can follow instructions but I am really trying to wrap my head around wtf is going on inside when I am making these adjustments. Shouldnt all the screws be adjuted to the same setting? Should I sync them first or after? Should I adjust pilots, sync carbs, and repeat?

Sheesh my head is spinning now.... :heat: This tuning stuff is all brand new to me so I am just trying to fully understand

 

[joedrum]

hang in there more coming ...