GL1100 Neutral Switch Rehab

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AApple

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Location
Duncanville, Texas
My Bike Models
1981 GL1100 Innerstate("The Turd")SOLD!!, 1996 GL1500 Innerstate
Thanks to some info from Old Fogey, I decided to see if my neutral switch would come apart without me breaking it....it DID!! I put the switch in a vise with low tension, and used the same 90* type snap-ring pliers used to remove the driveshaft snap-ring....if you have the engine out of your bike, then you prolly have these pliers. The end cap has 4 blind holes in it that allow 90* snap ring pliers to turn the cap in/out. Old Fogey mentioned that the plastic end cap is very brittle, and it is, so USE CAUTION if you want to do this repair to yours. I got the end cap unscrewed with no issues, and was able to clean the internal parts well, and re-assemble. I used some fine emery cloth the clean the brass terminals of the switch components, and the steel housing where the brass actually makes contact to provide the ground for the neutral light. I used a small amount of sillycone on the end cap threads to re-assemble for leak protection, as well as to keep the end cap from possibly un-screwing itself. Testing afterward confirms the switch works as designed....plunger at rest, continuity, plunger depressed, NO continuity. Here's some pics...

btw....this same switch is used in several other model Honda bikes....750, GL1000, etc.






There is a small rubber lathe-cut seal that fits between the endcap and housing as a seal....I did not get that seal in the pics for some reason...but there is one there.
 
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The CB350 & CL350 Neutral switch consisted of a rotating bakelite cam with one brass contact spot on it, and a flimsy flat brass contact wiper bolted to the engine case right next to it. All of this was located about an inch away from the front drive sprocket under the dust cover. It was typically a mess from chain lube, road, dirt, and on the CL350s, everything else that can get jammed in there from trail riding, lol! Never bought a CB/CL 350 that it didn't have to be cleaned, repaired, unbent, resoldered, what have you. The old metal stoplight switches on all the 60's models always had dirty contact & wiring issues, too. Anyone else remember the late-60's front brake switch made as part of the front brake cable? Thankfully that "feature" only lasted about 18 months, when Honda decided it should be in the brake handle housing, instead!

Does this qualify me as an "old fogey"? lol!
 
Thanks to some info from Old Fogey, I decided to see if my neutral switch would come apart without me breaking it....it DID!! I put the switch in a vise with low tension, and used the same 90* type snap-ring pliers used to remove the driveshaft snap-ring....if you have the engine out of your bike, then you prolly have these pliers. The end cap has 4 blind holes in it that allow 90* snap ring pliers to turn the cap in/out. Old Fogey mentioned that the plastic end cap is very brittle, and it is, so USE CAUTION if you want to do this repair to yours. I got the end cap unscrewed with no issues, and was able to clean the internal parts well, and re-assemble. I used some fine emery cloth the clean the brass terminals of the switch components, and the steel housing where the brass actually makes contact to provide the ground for the neutral light. I used a small amount of sillycone on the end cap threads to re-assemble for leak protection, as well as to keep the end cap from possibly un-screwing itself. Testing afterward confirms the switch works as designed....plunger at rest, continuity, plunger depressed, NO continuity. Here's some pics...

btw....this same switch is used in several other model Honda bikes....750, GL1000, etc.






There is a small rubber lathe-cut seal that fits between the endcap and housing as a seal....I did not get that seal in the pics for some reason...but there is one there.
Good information,thanks,I'll give it a try.
 
I'm happy to report that my repair was a success!! It is now showing neutral as it should. I was worried for a while, and did actually wire in an "emergency" wire to ground(thru a switch) if needed. So far, so good!
 
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