GL1100 Starter

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wilcoy02

wilcoy02

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I have not had my bike started since middle of Aug due to a strained back.

I have had a ctec charger in snow flake mode on my agm battery.
volts check out over 12.3
I tried to get it started and it cranked over about 4-5 times and quit.
Now I can not get it to kick over at all. Same battery, different battery, and jumping from another 12 volt running battery.
I believe it is the starter clutch that is not kicking in.

How do I get it to catch to turn the engine over?

Trying to get it winterized.
Thanks for any help.
 
So I assume the starter in spinning but not engaged to the motor ...12.3 voltage reading is low ...I’m no fan of agm batteries ....starter clutch engagement can be a pain when they get sticky ...a rubber hammer a good tool to beat with and leave no marks ...especially the white ones trying to start ...LOL
 
Define "quit". Ex: starter won't engage, starter doesn't turn, turns slow, etc.

Watch your volt meter when you hit the starter. If it drops below 8 volts, the battery is no longer providing enough power to start the motor.

You mentioned jumping from a running vehicle. What voltage was the other vehicle putting out? Anything below 13 volts won't really help you.

If you can, turn off the headlight when trying to start. The HL uses a ccouple of volts just being on.

What is the temperature in the storage area? Batteries lose up to 50% of their capacity at 0F. Oil stiffens significantly at lower temperatures, causing an increased strain on the starting system.

Any corrosion on the battery posts or cables? The bike has sat for 4-5 months and corrosion can occur quickly.
 
The first time I tried to start it turned the engine over.
Now all I get is the ticking sound.
I have tried several clicks but it will not turn anything over.
Just click and headlight goes out.

today after charge all night
cold 13.76
key on 11.87
clicking key 12.09
jump from running vehicle 14.35

clicking is all I get.
What do I hit with a rubber hammer? the starter or where?
Will changing the oil with warm oil from the house help?

I guess it is time for a new battery again.
 
That AGM ..SUPER BATTERY IS SHORTED ....is shorted unhook it and throw that pos in the trash ....I’m rather sure with that in the system it nothing going to work ....try hooking jumper cables from car to bike and starter with bike in neutral ...hook ground cable to to bike frame somewhere to get good ground ...then if you can get at starter post on starter ...just touch the starter post ..starter will probably spin now ....just don’t touch anything else but post with the positive jumper ...lot of times I hook positive cable to large Phillips screwdriver...make a good probe connector and has a handle .......hope you I said it good Wes
 
I think more trouble shooting is needed before you spring for a new battery.

I would look at the solenoid because a clicking sound says the solenoid isn't making good contact inside or not getting enough current to make a good contact. Try swapping solenoids if you have a spare. You could also have corrosion in the cable from the solenoid to the starter.

If you've got 12+ volts after you press the starter button, that should engage the starter.
 
Just to be sure, you are pushing the start button and only hearing a single click right? If that is the case, it sounds like your starter solenoid failed. (Happens often.) You can try hitting it with a mallet (located at the rear to the right of the battery). Sometimes the solenoid gets stuck, but usually means it should be replaced. Do not be afraid to give it a good whack and try the starter button again.

If the battery is showing 12.8 volts, attach a jumper cable from the battery positive terminal and touch the other end to the starter cable at the bolt head. If the starter spins, it is a bad starter solenoid.

If you are talking you hear multiple clicks (like a battery going dead) than it is either a bad battery or bad starter.
 
Agreed more troubleshooting needed. Could be the AGM just up and quit without warning, it's not un-common. I've had 2 bike batteries do that to me so far, and 3 Bosch AGM in our Suburban. In the bikes at least, AGM is still worth it to me for not having fluid to spill or maintain.

In addition to the above checks, I'd put a volt meter on the battery while hitting the start button. If the battery is bad, the volts will drop way down (10-8 and lower). If volts don't drop, power isn't getting to the starter.
 
If the the light goes out to and with those voltage reading ...I’m still saying battery Wes ...but all things in play ...jumping the starter eliminates it being the problem ....there’s plenty of places that check batteries for free ...and it’s the easiest and cheapest thing to check first

Dans suggestion is spot on ....
 
Another possibility too that voltage could still drop (or not) even if power is getting to the starter...if the starter is dead, broken wire, brush etc...or if the engine is hydro-locked. Remove the plugs then see if it turns over. Liquid will spray out the plug hole if it was locked so careful your eyes and face.
But first step is to determine if power is even getting to the starter.
 
I still think it is the starter clutch not kicking in.
Had the battery checked and it is in very good shape. Bought it at batteries and plus and they checked it out today.
How can I get stabul distributed in the engine without getting the engine to start?
 
Not the starter clutch, you would hear the starter spin without engaging. Test voltage at the starter post while trying. I'm betting it will be very low if anything. Then work your way back toward the battery. Solenoid M post, then B post. Solenoid contacts carry a lot of current and arc causing damage to them, they eventually fail. Cable connections, even between connector and the wire eventually fail. And, the ground connection from battery to frame must be checked.
 
As said if you jump strait to starter ..that answers for the starter being the problem ..from there it is contacts solenoid or battery ...start button ..ignition switch ..witch they are the problem a lot of times ...as far as carbs go ...you can drain the carbs at the bowls for now ..and figure out what’s going on in starter circuit
 
Post subject: Re: 82 GL1100 updateShare Post: Post Number:#2 : Wed Mar 07, 2018 1:01 pm
User avatar




Although a contributor, it's not so much the viscosity, but seems to be more related to inactivity (or dirty oil). The centrifigal starter clutch doesn't get direct oiling - and does occasionally hang if it sits for a while. Dirty oil can make it worse. Of course there are cases where this happens regardless as they age. Darn things were completely trouble-free for only 35 or 40 years.

This is what I believe the problem is.
 
So starter spins and engine doesn't turn over?
Or you get only clicking when trying to start?

If it's the first, then add a little seafoam to the oil and push start the bike to get the engine started and run the oil till good and warm. This might get into the starter mechanism and "clean" it a bit. If it was me I'd do this routine a few times, draining the oil out and refilling with more seafoam/oil and running the engine. The hope is this cleans out that mechanism. Somewhere here there was a thread that described a way to drill a hole and 'flush' that mechanism. Not sure where.....
 
[url=https://www.classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=215012#p215012:14d1lxy5 said:
wilcoy02 » 21 minutes ago[/url]":14d1lxy5]
Post subject: Re: 82 GL1100 updateShare Post: Post Number:#2 : Wed Mar 07, 2018 1:01 pm
User avatar




Although a contributor, it's not so much the viscosity, but seems to be more related to inactivity (or dirty oil). The centrifigal starter clutch doesn't get direct oiling - and does occasionally hang if it sits for a while. Dirty oil can make it worse. Of course there are cases where this happens regardless as they age. Darn things were completely trouble-free for only 35 or 40 years.

This is what I believe the problem is.
Click to expand...
I don't know where you're quoting this from (I guess you are quoting a post, hard to tell) but I can tell you with certainty that thick oil like 20/50 does in fact make the starter clutch act up and not engage. Even clean oil. I have experience this a few times trying out different brand oils, and there have been many posts from others experiencing the same.
 

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