GL1200 Engine Rebuild - Part 3 - Assembly and Install

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Rednaxs60

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Next installment to keep the thread length shorter. The other relevant threads are: viewtopic.php?f=24&t=14067 and viewtopic.php?f=24&t=14282 For painting: viewtopic.php?f=24&t=14073

Decided to bite the bullet and have ordered the bolt(s) required to button up the engine cases. Until these arrive, hopefully before Xmas, I will put the case together, hand tighten the bolts - can get a bit of torque when doing this, and install some of the other parts pieces. Have read where heads have been installed and some have loosened then torqued head bolts again. With the number of bolts holding the engine case together, should be okay. Not too many bolt on parts/pieces go between the right/left cases.

Since the weather is getting colder, have started to use a small space heater in the garage. Warms up by mid afternoon to 14/15 degrees C. This is acceptable painting temperature, so will do mechanical in the morning then transition to painting later in the day - want the painting to be over. Only have one small heater, going to get a second.
 

Rednaxs60

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Messed up yesterday's post, in wrong place - under painting. Oh well stuff happens. Good day today, assembling engine going well. Thought I was missing two collars for the install of the water pp cover, ordered 2 and a couple of bolts from offshore. Went back out to look at the bolts for the water pp cover and what did I find - the collars. Honda's not making any more of these so having a couple on hand won't hurt. Have the front end together:
Engine front view.jpg
The back end together as well:
Engine rear view.jpg


Have an issue with the original bolts used:
OEM bolts.jpg
Don't know if it's age, heat cycles, or whatever, but seems these bolts get soft. Not a lot of torque required, 9 ft-lbs, just shy of a good umph with a wrench/ratchet. These were used to secure the clutch lifter plate. Even being careful, one of these stretched - had to chase the threads. Replaced with new same size bolts and all is well.

Soldiering on, just a saying - I was in the Navy. Looking forward to getting to where I can install the engine. This is going to be a very productive week.
 

Rednaxs60

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Good work day, weather wasn't bad and did some grocery shopping.

Continued putting parts on the engine. Some will have to come off, but I also wanted to find stuff, it's been almost 6 months and you never know what took a walkabout. After having a helicoil put in, I've started to put the securing bolts for whatever in by hand and as long as I could thread the bolt all the way in - good to go. If not, used wire brushes to clean the bolt hole in question:
Wire Brushes.jpg
Took to reading and checking the service manual twice for mention of lubricating the bolts with a moly paste.

Have taken some pics of what this rebuild will look like, enjoy:
Engine 1.jpg
Engine 2.jpg
Engine 3.jpg
Engine 4.jpg
Engine 5.jpg


One other issue is the sensors at the thermostat housing call for O-rings. Don't think this will work. Going to look for crush washers as a good alternative:
Thermostat Housing Connections.jpg
 

Rednaxs60

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Thanks, won't be able to see most of the engine. So far haven't found any parts/pieces that need to be inside the engine cases :music:
 

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Did a post on my paint thread that should have been here. These are the pics. Honing of the cylinders:
Honing 1.jpg
Honing 2.jpg
Using Hondabond 4 for sealing:
Case Sealant.jpg


Good work day today, got the MCs together. Look great. More tomorrow, brake calipers.

Have a list of some 16 items that I have to attend to. Struck four off the list then added two - go figure.
 

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Have been progressing the engine rebuild/install. Have it together, water pipes in. Going to make a couple of holders for the timing gears. Brake calipers together, one of the pad pin holders has gone for a walkabout - have a spare and will find the offending culprit. Brake/clutch MCs back together. Waiting for the PET wire loom to come in - going to replace the old OEM wire loom cover as these are oil soaked and full of crud.
 

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Have an issue with the original bolts used:Don't know if it's age, heat cycles, or whatever, but seems these bolts get soft. Not a lot of torque required, 9 ft-lbs, just shy of a good umph with a wrench/ratchet. These were used to secure the clutch lifter plate. Even being careful, one of these stretched - had to chase the threads. Replaced with new same size bolts and all is well.



That is quite a stretch on that bolt! :shock:
 

Rednaxs60

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I know. Since I had the issue with the engine case and con rod bolts, I am very sensitive to how the various bolts were tightening. Don't know why this happens, but since it has/does, I don't push my luck anymore.
 

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Progressing and contemplating the engine install schedule. Engine is timed, these engines are very easy to do. Line up the T1 mark on the crank, line up the cam sprockets, install belts and you're done:
Engine Timed.jpg
I mentioned that I was considering replacing the old wire coverings with new. Did the Gr/Gl sensors on the back end of right head:
Wire Loom Replacement.jpg
It looks good, wrapped the wires with TESA cloth tape, then the PET wire loom. There's a lot of air space in the OEM plastic wire covering so this could be beneficial as a space saving measure. Most will be under cover and never to be seen so I ask the fateful question - Y/N? It's a bit of work but does look good, and the old OEM covering is getting a bit ratty.
 

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When I did my wire harness, I ran into the same issue with adding new covering. I did use black mesh, but it didn't really matter because 90 percent of the wire is out of sight.
 

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Have black 1/2 inch wrap, need to order 1/4 inch black. Hear what Dan is saying, the red will stand out and that is not what is intended. Gerry - most is buried, so colour is not an issue, but where it is visible, think Dan's comment is good. Lots to do even while waiting for the product.
 

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Went for a ride up island today, great day for a ride. Lots of time to think on the road. This time about the wiring I have done and how I can make it more efficient and gain some space. Should be done with this project in a year or two - maybe.
 

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Been a very good day on the restoration/rebuild work. Have been prepping some wire runs for the new outer wire cover. Have the wires for the lights in the key switch cover done:
Ignition Switch Cover and Lights.jpg
Will be using the black with red wire cover in places that are not out in the open, don't want to waste it. The lights shine through the slits in the key switch cover - shine on the dash.

Took several other polished aluminum parts - valve, timing belt and IAC covers, and injector housings - cleaned with Dawn dish detergent then sprayed with a liberal coating of the CERAKOTE clear that I have. Thought I had stopped putting parts/pieces in the exercise room:
Engine Aluminum Coated 1.jpg
Engine Aluminum Coated 2.jpg


Also decided that I need to upgrade the wiring I have installed in the last 5 years, and to refresh the memory on what has been done. Have most of the wiring uncovered, and there is quite the lot to sort out:
Electrical Wiring 1.jpg
Lots of splices and different coloured wires making up a single run. Thinking I'll put a push on and get this done this week. Will have a go at numbering everything again. Have to work on the new switch panel I intend to install, something similar to what I installed on my V-Strom - bent some ABS sheet to suit:
Accessory Panel 3.jpg
This pic shows the jig I made up to bend the ABS sheet:
Gauge Panel 2.jpg
Worked out well, didn't have to, put holes in any of the plastics.
 

Rednaxs60

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Being kept off the street so have to keep busy. Getting at the wiring right now. Have done a few mods with the associated wiring and as you can imagine wires get entangled so that when you want to decipher what has been done or to remove a string, not possible. Also had lots of splices and such:
Wiring Rats Nest.jpg
Wiring Rats Nest 2.jpg
This was the time to refresh my memory as to what I did. I took the old off a bit at a time. Used new wiring throughout, the old stuff is generally dirty, spliced and not making a lot of sense. Made separate wiring harnesses for the side stand safety switch, external alternator wiring - have the excite and such coming off the auxiliary fuse block, rewired the auxiliary fuse block relay, removed the horn relay for the upgraded horns - going to hook into the OEM wiring harness connector for operation, but will power from the auxiliary fuse block - gets rid of one relay and a lot of wires. This is just the left side, have to get at the right side wiring:
Wiring Rats Nest 3.jpg
Started to use the PET wire loom on the wire runs for a couple of reasons. Looks good, easy to run two to four wires without tape through the loom, and I was just being lazy and didn't want to spend the time taping the wires. It will allow for quick identification of what wire runs are additions.

Will be putting the trunk on soon, need to hook up the new fuse block I bought. 12 position with integrated ground bus. Will have all of my add on wiring connected in one place.

Need to put together a lift so I can take the engine off the workbench to floor level. Have the Big Blue lift that should fit the bill:
Bike Lift 2.jpg


Coming together. Cheers
 

Rednaxs60

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So it's on with the restomod. Had a good day once I was back from a few errands. Had new street tires installed on my bicycle, sold the old ones for a good price. Picked up a new drill/driver set - Bosch. The driver can do both 1/4 inch tools such as screw drivers, and it has a 1/2 inch square drive for sockets. Came with a recip saw as well.

Installed the trunk so I can progress the wiring retrofit:
Trunk Installed.jpg
Got the lift prepped for engine removal and install. Might get this done this weekend. Once the engine comes down, it has to go in the bike. Will post pic of my makeshift lift when I take the engine off the work bench.

The bike will be moved to the lift, the V-Strom will take it's place alongside the wall, and the work bench will be for parts. All coming together.

Looked at some of the pieces I could remove to do a paint refresh. Going to do what I can now because I sure won't want to do any painting for a while. Going to have the pieces media blasted. I could spend the time to sand and such, but I can also spend my time progressing the main work in conjunction with. When I break the cost down to hours, more advantageous to have someone else do the media blasting, and I don't have to clean up the garage afterwards. Painting the pieces will be epoxy primer, gloss black, then coated.
 

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Restomod has slowed down, but will progress as I can. Getting ready for Christmas, have presents to wrap and house to help decorate. Don't mind wrapping and giving presents, but not the deck the halls with trimmings kind of guy.

Received the black wiring cover so I can now finish off the right side switch wiring. The new fuse block is going to sit nicely in the trunk and allow me to have the ground wires in the same place. Checked to make sure I could still put two modular helmets in the trunk with the new fuse block and it's good.

Took the last, yes the last, of the pieces that could/should be painted, and were easy to remove, to my media blast guy. Only items left to blast and clean is the frame and triple tree and these are not coming off. Monday and Thursday weather looks good for painting.

Good week to install to get the engine installed in the frame, and the bike on the lift.
 

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A lot done today. Put the injector housings together, look great. Moved the bike to the lift for the next round of work:
Bike Moved to Lift.jpg
Moved the engine off the work bench to the Big Blue lift. Can still work on it on the lift, but can now lower to floor level for install:
Engine Moved to Lift for Install.jpg
Back end of the bike is looking good. When everything is back together, a lot will be hid but I will know it's done:
Rear Brake and Wheel.jpg
Final Drive and Rear Wheel.jpg
Lots of room in the garage now that the 4X8 sheet of plywood is gone. Will be doing some more clean up tomorrow of the work bench:
More Room.jpg
have the prop shaft and u-joint installed. I've read that you can remove and install the engine from/in the frame with the u-joint in place. Hope this works because I would like to keep the prop shaft and u-joint together - PITA when trying to line up with the engine installed.
 
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