GL1200 Engine Rebuild - Part 3 - Assembly and Install

[julimike54]

:good: opcorn:

 

[Rednaxs60]

Not so long ago, in a galaxy far, far away:

After yesterday's work:

When I see the bike coming together like this, I get the feeling that I should go a bit quicker and get the bike started. Have to exercise restraint, no sense in rushing the issue, not going anywhere quick anyway.

Have some small items to do that will not make as visible a change as what I did yesterday, but important none the less. The devil is in the detail(s).

 

[Rednaxs60]

mcgovern61 » Yesterday, 5:25 pm[/url]":3sblbwse]
On the 1100, the fan gets it's hot from the thermo switch, but the power comes directly from the black positive wire that feeds the whole harness, no fuse. The power for the fan is spliced in the harness right before the ignition coil hots. Pulling that wire out and putting it on it's own circuit with a fuse made a difference with the ignition when the fan comes on at idle.

Gerry: have looked at the schematic. When I did the manual rad fan switch and rad fan indicator light mod, this is the schematic I used:

Power to the rad fan is on whenever the key switch is on, rad fan only starts when the themo switch closes and power is allowed to go to ground. Would have to confirm which wire is hot all the time then wire accordingly.

 

[Rednaxs60]

Ansimp » Yesterday, 7:22 am[/url]":3kyhi9xx]
You can still use a 2 pin flasher where there is wiring for the 3 pin flasher, you just don’t need to use the earth.

Tony: have looked at the schematic and need a three wire flasher to keep the circuit operating correctly. This PDF:View attachment Turn Signals.pdf has the power in to the relay - white/green wire, the load goes out to the signal switch - gray wire, and the third wire goes to the turn signal cancel unit - blue/black - grounding the flasher unit. Found this hyper flash LED relay on Amazon:

Theoretically I would have the white/green wire connected to the "+" terminal, the gray load wire to the load terminal, and the blue/black wire connected to the ground terminal. The circuit works so that when the turn signal cancellation unit closes and power is going to ground, the power through the flasher relay is diverted to ground and the signals turn off. Rhetorical question - opinion on connections? This relay is supposed to be adjustable, would have to read up on it. Think this function is only to change the flash rate.

 

[mcgovern61]

Remember, for the 1200, Honda learned a lot of lessons in the wiring and made quite a few upgrades from the 1100.

 

[Rednaxs60]

Gerry - you might have just talked me out of changing what I have with the manual rad fan switch and indicator light.

Took some time today to progress the engine install. Finished connecting all the sensors. Connected vacuum lines and IAC valve air lines. Fuel system will be the last to be connected, have fuel will want to start the engine. Have electrical trials to do first.

Installed the front fender:

Doing the fit at this time to keep myself from going too fast and starting the engine. A while back I separated the fender brackets and destroyed the OEM rivets. Trying a couple of thoughts on how to attach the fender and fender brackets as economically as possible. Thinking of Chicago screws, don't have any but may order some. Have the fender and bracket attached using bolts and acorn nuts:

Can only use this arrangement on two of the three fastening points. There is an issue removing the front fender with the acorn nuts:

The look is not bad. If I go with this arrangement, will only use two of the three connecting holes, blue loctite on the screws so I can remove these at a later date if required.

 

[Rednaxs60]

My journey and journal continues. Good progress today. Only criteria I have each day is to progress the project, even if it's only a small item.

Bled the clutch and brake systems. Have Speedbleeders installed so I can do this work solo. Had to use the vacuum pump to get the fluid started in the brake system. Ran out of DOT 4 brake fluid, but will get more tomorrow. Nice to hear the clutch movement. Did some wiring for the manual rad fan switch and indicator light.

Added 4 litres of oil to the engine.

Installed the front fairing bracket so I could install the alternator. Finally did an alignment of the crank and alternator pulleys with a piece of 1" angle aluminum. It will be straight enough for this type of alignment check:

Alignment was good considering when I did the initial install it was an "eyeball" alignment. Changed out the OEM rad fan for one from an 1800. Spent a bit of time getting the rad installed, had to move some wires - will do final wire routing when buttoning up the engine compartment:

Coolant fill this weekend. Have had a Morosso spacer for some time but never installed it. Decided this was a good time to install it:

Have installed a new speed sensor from a 750 Honda. Same install and wire colour identification. Had to make a jumper because the the OEM connector at the airing harness and on the speed sensor were female ends. The jumper is two male ends.

 

[Dusterdude]

Red,is the spacer a chevy item?

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[Rednaxs60]

Yes it is. The reason I have waited until now to install is I did install when I did the mod, but it leaked so I made do with the original configuration and made the joining hose fit.

Had a thought last night that I could make one to fit, something like doing a Vee block and clamp when I did my first engineering course in our Navy. The instructors gave us hacksaws, files rulers and such with a set of plans. Tolerances were quite close, +/- 0.010 or so. We would do the work and the instructors would mark our projects using dial indicators and certified flat beds. Got good using hand tools. Be a good little project.

 

[Dusterdude]

Another question,what is the purpose of the spacer?

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[Dusterdude]

I think I see it now,you kicked out the bottom of the rad.

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[Rednaxs60]

Had to kick out the bottom of the rad to accommodate the crank pulley for the alternator.

More progress today as well as a setback. Fuel system connected, coolant in engine, and sensors connected. Wiring for rad fan is done. Confirmed the 12 VDC power wire. Started an electrical check today and not working as I want it to, or how it did before. Have taken some of the wiring apart, looked at my wiring diagrams and will have it back together operating correctly in a day or two. Jumped the wire from the stop engine switch that goes to a relay for the side stand safety switch, and fuel pump came on. Tells me where I have to troubleshoot. Should be able to start the engine this week. May have to take the rear wheel off and look at the shaft line. When I spin the wheel the shaft line is very noisy. When I do turn the wheel the u-joint turns nicely. Investigation necessary.

Been a long journey, but not over yet.

 

[Ansimp]

I have purchased some of those adjustable flash rate flasher but have yet to use them in an actual application. Theoretically they should still give you a hyper flash when a bulb fails (or hopefully a high output led) but I haven’t tested this out yet. I Mainly purchased these as hopefully an improvement over the fixed rate led flashers that I have been using for years so that in situations where the rear lights are LEDs the flasher will work similarly to the OEM without resistors. The likes of my current vehicle uses the BEM or BCM to produce the flash rate so the only option is to use resistors for each LED replacement bulb.

 

[Rednaxs60]

Going to do a test of the flasher when I get it. Never know.

Today is a banner day. Got the wiring corrected for the alt and side stand safety systems. Connected the fuel system, and of course, fuel leaks. New crush washers on the fuel filter. No more excuses.

Checked the shaft line, connected properly.

Checked the power to the starter, solenoid working well. Connected starter, spun the engine without the plugs in and stop switch off. No noises. Plugs in and push the start button. Had my brother on the other end of the phone. He wanted to hear it start and run. Took a few tries, air in the fuel system. Had to adjust the RPM. No water or oil leaks that I can see, so it's time to finish wire placement, and a few other items, then the body work.

Going to change the coolant and oil before the first road test, just because.

Took a video and it sounds very good. Will try to post. It's 115 MB.

Been a long time coming. Cheers

 

[Dusterdude]

Excellent!!!

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[Rednaxs60]

Yesterday was a day of troubleshooting. Monday, started the engine and posted a video clip, major milestone. Went to the garage yesterday, sussed out the rad fan manual switch and indicator light circuit. Went to start the engine, no joy, nadda, zip, nothing. Disconnected the rad fan wiring, always go back to the start, still nothing. Knowing that it is not mechanical, took out the multimeter and started looking for the issue. Also noticed that the battery was at 12.1 VDC, approximately 50% state of charge, not good - connected battery tender.

Saw smoke coming from the side stand safety switch, disconnected this circuit. Still had an issue - was reading 10 VDC with the key switch off.

Not much else left to disconnect, except the alternator circuit - did this as well. With key off, no power in the system. Took alternator in to have it checked, working as it should. Thought that the diodes may be toast, but no backfeed through the alternator.

Came home and did more looking. With the alternator not installed continued to have a power issue.

Disconnect the battery, reconnect, no voltage with key off, something has reset. Key on, 12 VDC through system. Turn key off, 10 VDC through system. With key off start to probe certain points. Had power to auxiliary fuse block through a relay. Only way this can happen is if relay has failed, or if trigger wire has power, trigger wire had power. Relay was working as it should.

Removed the starter wires from the starter solenoid. Power was on the wire from the starter - not supposed to be. Left disconnected. Tried the starter by using screw driver, no joy. May be starter solenoid, but will wait on this. Disconnected starter from system - thought it might be the drain, had 12 VDC on the cable to the starter. Still have the issue.

Checked the engine stop switch. There was power to the system with the key off. Turn the engine stop switch from run to stop, still had power in the system, switch was not doing what it was supposed to.

Everything I had checked and eliminated as possible issues, still had me stumped. During all of this, fuel pump never cycled. Late afternoon, after a very frustrating day, the fuel pump cycled. Electrical gremlin having supper? Checked the engine stop switch and it was working as it should. This also indicated the engine was in neutral - not in neutral, no fuel pump. Jumped the starter solenoid, and the engine spun over like a good thing. Tried to start but was not successful, tomorrow was another day.

During all this did try pulling in on the clutch lever, again with no joy. Battery was load tested and is good.

For today, my work will be to have the engine spinning and start, try to not duplicate yesterday. :beg: I will be finding a new to me switch as well.

When I took the switches apart to paint the housings, the engine stop switch had one wire disconnected from the switch. Corrected this, but maybe there is an issue with the repair. Will look at today.

Thinking back on what I have had happen at various times, and one of these is the cruise control. Working fine, then one day the dash lights that are supposed to cycle on start did not, but the cruise control worked. Started to look into this, but did not want to take the bike apart at the time. The switches for the cruise control had been getting more "sticky" as I used the bike.

Aren't these older motorcycles fun! :music:

 

[Dusterdude]

Oh yea,they're a real treat

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[Rednaxs60]

Thanks. Didn't do much this morning, had my last throat cancer checkup, all is well and she kicked me to the curb. Going to miss the yearly visit(s), she's very pleasing to the eye.

Back home and connected the battery, left the battery tender on all night. Key on, fuel pump started and shut down as it is supposed to do, no error messages. Turned it over by jumping the terminals on the starter solenoid. Turned over, but did not start. Error codes on the ECU indicated Gr/Gl sensor fault and an Ns (crank sensor fault). Can deal with this, but didn't believe the sensors went out of tolerance since Monday. Gr/Gl sensor plug not connected, must have come apart when I was moving wiring around. Connected the sensors and all error codes went away.

Time to start, no joy. Have air, checked for spark - good, only thing left to have is fuel. Looked at fuel shut off valve and yes it was shut off. On fuel, small backfire, and started. Sonya is not impressed with the noise.

Alternator is connected and putting out a solid 13.6 at idle.

Haven't identified the root cause of the electrical issue, but still leaning towards the engine stop switch. Don't quite understand how power can be in the system with the key off. If it happens again soon, will bypass the engine stop switch to eliminate it as a cause. Could it be the key switch?

Not going to work on the bike any more today. Let it sit and check it out tomorrow. Going to install the exhaust temporarily so it's not quite so noisy.

Time to clean up the work space. Too disillusioned yesterday to do this.

 

[Dusterdude]

Yep,sometimes you have to walk away and congrats on the cancer.

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[julimike54]

Hope the problem reveals itself and good news on the checkup!