GL1200 Engine Rebuild - Part 4 - Getting to the Road

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Rednaxs60

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It's something small that I did, or have a bad connector/connection. If all had gone well, I would have hooked everything up, and not worried about the cruise control issue I had before the project. Now I'll look into it as well. Everything comes up as it should, a couple of glitches, the LED dash powers up, but no readout. Lights on the fairing, signal, headlight, and such work fine. When I tested the headlight high beam, the indicator came on but flickered like there was a bad connection. Little thing but telling as well. I'll get to the bottom of this mystery.

I have wanted to put an oil gauge on the engine since I got it. There's room to install a "T" fitting. Might be a good time to do this. Have to remove the existing sensor, and find a "T" fitting with the correct threads. Want this connection more as a troubleshooting/maintenance item to check the oil pressure. These engines are supposed to have approximately 14 PSI oil pressure at idle. Install a gauge with a long enough tube to secure it on top of the shelter, then go for a ride on the highway.
 

mcgovern61

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I installed a tee in the oil pressure port to operate a second oil pressure switch which is used to trigger a relay to turn my headlight on/off automatically.

image.php
 

Rednaxs60

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[url=https://www.classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=221032#p221032:3kqn4kpa said:
mcgovern61 » 57 minutes ago[/url]":3kqn4kpa]
I installed a tee in the oil pressure port to operate a second oil pressure switch which is used to trigger a relay to turn my headlight on/off automatically.

image.php

I have three oil sensors. An oil pressure warning switch on the rear of the right engine case. An oil pressure sensor on the top of the right rear of the engine, and an oil temp switch on the lower right engine case. Haven't researched this much, but the oil pressure warning switch should be for the dash oil pressure warning light. The oil pressure sensor and temp switches should be for the dash temp/pressure indication that is controlled by the travel computer. Travel computer has a button that changes the fuel level and engine temp indication on the dash to the oil pressure/temp indication. The oil pressure warning light works on the dash, comes on and goes off when engine started - got oil pressure.

Ordered the load resistors for the taillight circuit. A four pack of 50W 8 ohm- should be enough.

Edit: Every now and then I revisit the build threads I have read in the past. Always find out something new, or can better relate now that I have done an engine rebuild and freshened up the paint. Have a few more items to be detailed to catch up to the frame painting crowd.

Taking today off. Rather cool in the garage, a frigid -4 deg C, wind chill at -12 deg C. I know, suck it up - could be worse, could have snow as well.
 

Rednaxs60

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Got sidetracked talking to my brother. I'm restoring my GW, he's doing his kitchen. Lots of projects going on.

Did some troubleshooting yesterday. Put the front fairing back on, the Supplement is very good with detailed instructions on how to troubleshoot the FI models. Checked for power to the dash at the connectors behind the dash, none on the wire that is supposed to be live. Removed front fairing, checked for power at the main harness connector, battery voltage.

Took the fairing connectors out of the side connector holder, and made a wire colour chart for each connector. The connector that is in question is good with the exception that I have put a row of wires in the right order, but 180 degrees out. Knew it had to be something I did and not complicated.

Bit cold today, a blustery day outside so be a day or two before I put the fairing back on. Have a cruise control issue to solve as well.

The dash indicator lights such as high beams, oil, signal light on, and such come on and with the new LED bulbs installed are quite bright. Like the new look.
 

Rednaxs60

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Tweaked my lower back the other day when I was wrestling with the front fairing. Taking it easy for a few days. In doing this, looking into the cruise control indicator light issue on start and when operating. The cruise on and cruise set lights do not cycle when key is turned to on, or illuminate when using cruise. Have replaced the indicator lights with LED bulbs and proved them when I put them in.

Perused the wiring diagram and there is an indicator light relay. Power comes to the indicator lights from fuse #9 - hot at all times. Power from #9 fuse passes through the CFI main relay that is activated when the key is turned on. Power to the CFI main relay to operate the relay comes from #5 fuse through the engine stop switch.

Power goes through the cruise indicator lights to the cruise control unit that provides a ground for the cruise indicator lights when the system is being used on the highway.

There is a junction just after the cruise indicator lights and before the cruise control unit. These wires go to the indicator light relay that when activated allows power to flow to ground. This is a specialty relay in that it has a capacitor on the ground side of the relay. I had seen the symbol for the capacitor in this schematic a while back but never paid much attention to it. I searched for an explanation on why the capacitor is there.

This capacitor while charging allows the indicator lights to illuminate for a few seconds until the capacitor is fully charged. Once the capacitor is fully charged the lights will go out as there is no flow of power through the capacitor, it is now a dead end for power flow. As long as the capacitor is kept at a state of full charge the lights will not illuminate until you use the cruise system and the cruise control unit provides a ground for the power that is provided to the cruise indicator lights.

Here is the PDF file of the cruise control system: View attachment LTD Cruise Control.pdf
The cruise indicator lights are supposed to cycle on then off after a few seconds when the key is turned to the ON position. This does not happen. Will be checking for power and hopefully find the issue. Sourcing a new relay may not be that easy.

To test the relay, thinking that I will connect the multimeter to the ground pin on the relay, turn on the key and watch the voltage going through the relay. Should read from battery or electrical system voltage to zero, indicating that the capacitor in the relay is working properly. Next test will be to ensure there is power to and from the indicator lights at the dash, and power to the relay from the indicator lights. Will check some other power wires if necessary.

Think I have a way ahead.

Edit - took the indicator relay off the bike. Found a suitable light to hook up to the relay. Wired as per manual. Works as indicated. Learn something new every day considering electrics and electronics were not my part ship in my past employment(s). Very cool.

Have to install front fairing to troubleshoot this issue further.
 

Rednaxs60

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Spent the day getting the front fairing ready to go back on the bike. Should get it installed and trialed tomorrow.

Edit: The load resistors that I need to add load to the taillight and brake lights so the dash indicator will go out:
Load Resistors.jpg
arrived today. These are 50Watt 6 ohm load resistors. Will be installing these as a load as if I was adding another light to the system. Have 4 load resistors, so I will add the resistors to the right and left saddlebag lights. Install two first, will only install the minimum amount of load resistors required, but will balance each side.

Installed an electronic LED flasher unit that took care of the signal light hyper flash.
 

Rednaxs60

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Mike, get your popcorn out. Have had a good day. Found the issue with no dash, had cleaned the fairing connectors a while back, and put one row of wires back in the connector 180 out of phase. Matched up the wires, installed the front fairing this morning, and everything works.

Did some troubleshooting of the cruise control, had to install my spare cruise control module. Will be looking for another spare.

Have the front fairing on, hopefully not to come off for a while. Started the engine and have tach and all dash functions. Shelter installed. Checked the travel computer functions, all good.

Installed a new speed sensor from a late model 750 Honda. Won't know how this works until I get it on the road. More to follow on this.

Been a long road. Still have some work to do. Here's a picture of the bike after clean up this afternoon:
Getting there.jpg


Additional info. The cruise indicator lights on the dash come on when the key is turned on as these are supposed too, and do "dim" once the indicator relay capacitor is fully charged. I changed the OEM lights for LEDs. What happens now is when the key is turned to "ON", the lights come on very bright, then stay on but at a lower illumination, something like high beam and low beam headlights. Turn the cruise on and the cruise on indicator light goes to "HIGH BEAM" so to speak. At least it is indicating correctly. There should be no power flow in this circuit once the indicator relay capacitor is fully charged. Checked the relay the other day. Will be checking the circuit to determine if there is power leaking through to the indicator lights.

Received 4 load resistors the other day to compensate for the LED replacement bulbs in the taillight circuit. Using OHMs law, these four 50 watt 6 ohm load resistors would add approximately 24 amps to the circuit. This can't be happening or the fuse would fail. Think I have the load resistors wired into the system incorrectly. Thought I could just wire these load resistors into the circuit as a bulk load, but this is not working. Going to plan B, wire these load resistors into the system, one per an LED and in parallel to the LED bulb. Now to look for real estate to install the load resistor so I don't melt any plastic. Possibly mount the load resistor onto a piece of aluminum that can be mounted onto the plastic. Aluminum dissipates heat quite quickly.

More to follow.
 

Rednaxs60

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Update - spent the morning kitchen cabinet browsing, Sonya's going to renovate the kitchen.

Got home about 1400, and started to work on the bike. Have always had an issue with installing the shelter. It was a struggle to get it in place. I started to reroute the cables and wires under the shelter that could affect this and have improved the install a good 100% from what I started with. Not perfect, but I can live with it for now.

Still haven't found the reason for the cruise indicating lights to be on when the cruise system is not on. Will continue my search for the reason. I did swap out the new speed sensor with the old one. No change.

Started the engine this evening to run it through a heat cycle. Operated it for some 50 minutes. Let it idle until the fan cut in at 6 bars on the dash temp gauge. Checked the oil pressure and temp gauge readings. Have to look at the owner's manual to see what the indicator means. After the first start/stop of the rad fan, upped the RPM to 1700 for approximately 10 minutes, then up to 2100 RPM for approximately 10 minutes. Engine temp stayed at 6 bars with the rad fan on. Think there is some air in the cooling system, should draw in more coolant overnight while engine cools. Dropped RPM back to idle and the rad fan cooled the rad enough to turn the rad fan off.

Noticed the absence of an oil smell on start and during engine operation. Before the rebuild, had a serious fuel smell when the engine was operating. None at this time. I attribute the fuel smell to an over-fueling condition that I actually made. I was calibrating the TPS incorrectly. I changed this during the rebuild and I think it will be fine now.

Thinking I'll secure the wiring in the rear of the bike, and take it for a spin around the block on Monday, weather permitting. If all goes well, will continue to install body panels and engine covers, and get it ready for a good road test. Going to change the oil before I do this.

Been a long road, almost nine months since I started this project.

Cheers
 

Rednaxs60

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Another productive day. Balanced the right/left cylinders:View attachment 1Can only do the cylinder banks, cannot do individual cylinders because of the fuel injection. Lots accomplished today such as cleaning and securing the wiring in the rear, seat, windshield, side mirrors and other niceties done. Getting closer to a road test:
Getting Closer.jpg


Operated the engine for another 50 or so minutes today, up to 2200 RPM. Temp gauge went into the 7 bar range, took it back to idle and it cooled down. Not a lot of air moving in the garage. Oil change tomorrow, fresh oil for the road test. When I shut the engine down, sounded much better. It'll take a few miles to sort it out.

Fitting the lower fairings tomorrow as well. Four new emblems on the way, the eagles for the side panels and the HONDA emblem for the front fairing. Going to replace the antennas. The ones I have are a PITA to keep tight and are a bit for wear. In for a penny, in for a pound - something like building a house or buying a ready made, the accessories kill the budget.
 

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Rednaxs60

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A very good day. No more parts to put on at this time. Going to order new antennas, have to complete the wiring on the bars. Fitted the lower fairings, always a treat especially when I make some adjustments, be good for now. Checked to make sure the cornering lights work with the new electronic LED flasher. These do but the cornering lights are flashing in time with the signal lights. Another mystery to solve. Here are some pics of the bike outside in the driveway:
Outside 1.jpg
Outside 2.jpg
Outside 3.jpg
Outside 4.jpg
It is no longer a garage queen. Had to put in gear and ride back into the garage. Test ride tomorrow, weather permitting.

Had a bit of a time getting it off the bike lift. Doesn't roll well with a flat rear tire.

Found an '85 Limited Edition parts bike, not complete, but I think it will be worth the price. Has a useable ECU. $250.00 and I'll be interested in what comes with it. My brother will pick it up and take it to his place.

Cheers
 

Rednaxs60

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A very good morning - road test to gas station, then on to the highway into town, coffee at friends place and back home. It's a different ride than the 1500, end May, early June last year was the last time it was on the road. Worked well, and shifted nicely. Only did just under 50 Kms, but more to come. Going to pull the lower side panels and check for leaks and such. It was a nice ride.

Installed a new speedometer gear box on the front wheel and a new speed sensor from a 2002 VT750 P/N 37700-MBA-611, works a treat.

Cheers
 

Rednaxs60

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Thanks

Solved the mystery about the cornering lights flashing - the signal circuit is very load dependent. Took the LED bulbs out of the front fairing that are for signal and clearance. Put the original bulbs back in, and the system works as it should - cornering lights stay on and do not flash. Still like the brilliance of the LED lights so will come up with a solution. I know load resistors. Issue is where to install the load resistor.

Did a small test on the workbench. Piece of 1/8" aluminum bar stock between the load resistor and 1/16" ABS sheet, hooked up to a battery. Let work for 5 minutes then checked the ABS. No melting so I'm thinking bigger is better in this case, use 3/16" aluminum bar stock between plastic and load resistor, or mount the aluminum bar stock so that there is a small air gap between it and the plastic. Should work well.
 

julimike54

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Great to hear that it's running well! Is the front wheel speed gear the same for all 1200s or is it an LTD part specific?
 

Rednaxs60

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The VT750 P/N is 37700-MBA-611, the P/N for the '85 Limited Edition and Aspencade, both have an LED dash, is 37700-MG9-951. Will/should work on any 1200 that has the 37700-MG9-951 P/N. I had found this reference years ago and put it in my parts spreadsheet. The connector on the VT750 speed sensor to hook into the wiring harness is a female connector and it has to fit into a female connector. I made a short wire connector with two male ends to suit.
 

Rednaxs60

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Good ride today, have some 155 Kms on the clock since back on the road. Supposed to be a good week, so riding it will be.

The Mrs and I went up and over the Malahat to Mill Bay for coffee. Temp gauge stayed at the 4 bar range except once when it dipped into the 5 bar range. Through town on the way back, hit 6 bars on the temp gauge, but not hot enough to activate the rad fan. Cooled down quickly once we were back moving on the highway. Intend to do the same as before the engine rebuild when riding in town, hit 5 bars and manually start the rad fan. Worked well before.

Had some admiring gents at the coffee shop, very complimentary. Think it will turn a few heads. Going to take it downtown and show it off to my paint guy - vain I know, but I like it.

Looking into a new set of Hagon shocks. The Progressive shocks that are on the bike now have been good for solo or two up riding with one annoyance, the eye to eye distance is 14 1/2 inches compared to the stock air shock eye to eye distance of 13.75 inch. This extra 3/4 inch makes the bike ride nice, but when on the centre stand both wheel are on the ground. This makes it difficult to come off the centre stand. The Progressive shocks adjustment is a PITA to change as well with the saddlebags attached. The Hagon shocks will have a remote adjustable preload (RAP).

Will keep the front suspension as is, have a Race Tech system. Front springs in a year or two.

Have the 1500 on the lift now. New brake pads and rotors going on - planned this when I purchased the bike.
 
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