GL1200 Engine Rebuild

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Rednaxs60

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Looking for info on oil and clutch oil pumps regarding rebuild, gaskets, etc. Any help would be appreciated. Will also be looking at the neutral switch while the engine is apart.
 

Rednaxs60

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Engine gasket set came in:
Engine Gasket Set.jpg
Bought it primarily for gaskets, will still use OEM head gaskets. This set is for 1100/1200. When I did the heads last year and used aftermarket gaskets, the gaskets didn't fit quite right. The exhaust header to head donut gasket is considerably different:
Header Head Gaskets.jpg
Header Head Gaskets 2.jpg
The bronze colour gasket is OEM. I guess the other will work, but will use the OEM.

Took a list of selective parts to the local dealer. The lady with whom I have been dealing was on her last day, but she checked the parts list against what was available, and came up with some alternate sources. Going to miss this type of service.
 

Rednaxs60

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Have been stripping the 1200 for engine removal and painting. Taking my time, using lots of ziploc bags for parts - these are your friend, and thinking of what I intend to do. Also working on the parts for the 1500 - 8 pieces to paint. Like having a variety of things to do, and this is in between being sociable with the Mrs.

A year or so ago, I stripped all the aluminum bits and sanded/polished with Flitz products. Took the timing covers off yesterday and they are still in good shape, haven't polished them since I did the initial work:
Timing Belt Covers.jpg
Will do a good refresh of all the polished aluminum parts during this work period.

Taking the air chamber out to clean up, and it will give me more space to get the engine out. Hope to have the engine on the bench by end week.
 

Rednaxs60

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Another good day. Taking my time, bagging all the bits and pieces as I go. Have the air chamber out, and the engine stripped down to the lower engine mounts and removing the rear wheel. Tried sliding the u-joint back, but it likes being up tight to the engine. Replaced the springs when I bought the bike 5 years ago. Will work on it tomorrow.
 

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[url=https://classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=217884#p217884:31eejrze said:
Rednaxs60 » Wed Jun 10, 2020 9:52 am[/url]":31eejrze]
Wondering if it would be easier to remove the engine from the frame with or without the heads on. Took it out before with the heads on. Thoughts?

I have my entire 1100 engine out of the frame getting ready for paint. I remove the radiator just for clearance, but the whole engine, carbs and all come out in one shot easy peasy!
 

Rednaxs60

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Friday came early. Had a friend come over and help me get the engine onto the work Bench:
Friday Came Early 2.jpg
Got going with taking parts off and taking a lot of pictures for install. Lots of crud to clean:
Front Case Crud.jpg
Looking at the bearing sizes as stamped:
Crank Bearing Sizes.jpg
Schedule has now changed, could have halves split by Friday. At a point where I have to read the OEM manual again.
 

Rednaxs60

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Another good day. Started out with the front off the engine this morning. Got the back end off, but left the clutch basket on, supposed to slide off, but that wasn't going to happen. Took out the bolts, counted them. Then started on splitting the case. A little heat along the top split, some judicious tapping with a drift and hammer, kept at it then a small opening. Exploited the opening and eventually got the cases split:
Cases Split.jpg
Still lots of daylight and Kept at it. No broken bolts, only stripped one screw, will have the machine shop remove, I'd just bugger it up and don't want to damage the case. Been a good day, all apart, pictures taken, used lots of ziploc bags. Friday came early:
Friday Came Early 3.jpg


Have used a centre punch to ensure the con rod and journal bearings are matched.

Wanted to get at the con rod and journal bearings to see what the damage is. Overall not bad, have seen worse. The con rod bearing ID Codes are "2" for all four con rods and the OD is B for all. This indicates that the bearing size is "Brown". The crank journal bearing OD code is "3" for all three journals. The ID code according to the markings: are:
Crank ID Code.jpg
front journal bearing - II, centre journal bearing - I, rear journal bearing - I. This indicates that the front journal bearing colour code is "Black", centre and rear is "Brown".

Here are the con rod brg pics:
No 1 Con Rod Brg.jpg
No 2 Con Rod Brg.jpg
No 3 Con Rod Brg.jpg
No 4 Con Rod Brg.jpg


Journal Bearings - centre:
Centre Crank Bearing 2.jpg
Centre Crank Bearing.jpg
Rear Journal:
Rear Crank Bearing.jpg
have to redo the pics of the front journal

Interesting that with all the bearings, the front journal bearing being the odd one out, it has a black colour code on it. Me thinks that the "Brown" bearing size was the defacto standard and only the bearings that were not this size are marked.

More work to do, pics to post and plastigage to do. Cheers
 

Rednaxs60

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Dan - the old girl had it's creaks and groans depending on how long she was inactive, but I didn't tear it apart for any noises. I did not like the smoking on start - it was a lot, and the smell whenever it started was not the best. When I drained the oil to do this I noticed that the engine had used over a litre of oil in less than a 1000 Kms. Up to now, never used more than 1/2 litre in 5000 Kms. It's just tired and needs a new set of rings, glaze removed, and a good cleaning. No bolts broke as I mentioned, but did strip one of the screws for the bearing holder on the transmission countershaft, will let the machine shop take it out. If I had not stripped the one screw might take on the honing myself. Taking the cases to the same machine shop that did the heads, and if the cases are cleaned up and painted the same, well worth the $125.00 CDN.

There is no play in the con rods when tight on the crank. Plastigage this weekend, then make a decision on bearing replacement and cases to the shop on Monday. Have an inexpensive set of inside micrometers coming tomorrow to check the cylinders. The shop will do the check as well, and I'll be able to check my measurements against the shop.

The con rod and journal bearing "Brown" bearings are available. May have to get from a few places, but these are available. The journal "Black" bearing is no longer available, but the difference between the journal bearing "Brown" and "Black" sizes is 0.0003 inches (0.008 mm) overall. The "Brown" bearing insert thickness is 0.0788 to 0.0790 inches. The "Black" bearing insert thickness is 0.0790 to 0.0791 inches. There are options.

I was a bit intimidated at the start of tear down, but as I got going I realized these engines are not that complicated. Took my time, lots of pics to supplement the manuals I have, and everything was bagged and tagged - even if it was a single bolt. I want shares in the Ziploc company. I was concerned with splitting the cases, having read the challenges some have had.

New shopping list being put together.

My brother and I were discussing this engine overhaul. Yes, there are engines out there, not very plentiful up here and to get one from the US is cost prohibitive. Getting a used engine is getting a used engine, don't know what you're getting - sort of like the Bits and Bites commercial, sticking your hand in the bag and coming out with a different handful, repeat. When I'm finished with this engine overhaul, will know what I have.

Time wise there may be some savings in an engine exchange, but the time to strip the motor has been approximately 10 hours.

I have been collecting parts and such over the last 4 years - give or take. Some parts are not available, but some are interchangeable such as the neutral switch, can use one from a 1500. The clutch cover oil seal where the clutch rod is inserted, and the crank front oil seal are the same P/N and sizes.

At least it will be clean and sparkly when back in the bike.

Shim tool came in yesterday. Will measure to compare with the one Dan has.
 

Rednaxs60

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Did some work on the engine today. Replaced the primary damper in the primary drive sprocket:
Primary Drive Sprocket 2.jpg
These little rubber type dampers were rock hard, no give in these at all. The new dampers are very supple comparatively. I could twist the new dampers slightly and these felt better.

Did some plastigauge on the crank journals. Used red plastigauge. 0.003 inch is the limit on the journal bearings. Came in at 0.002 inch. Did the test in two spots to make sure of the reading:
Plastigauge Marks.jpg
The con rod bearings are next.

Talked to the machine shop this afternoon and will take the cases in on Monday. Have started to clean the cases, lots of built crud to get rid of. Want to paint the cases so have to be cleaned now or later. The "now" is fitting my schedule better.
 

Rednaxs60

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Thank you. Cleaning the engine, spent a few hours yesterday afternoon. Thinking that the time and effort spent may pay off when I take the cases into the shop. When I talked to the manager, he remembered doing the heads, I asked about cleaning, etc. He mentioned that they don't normally do anything to an engine block. After a brief discussion, he did mention that they might be able to do something to make the cases look "tiddly". Used this term a lot when I was in our Navy. Shop may appreciate working on the cases when clean, never know.

Will be painting the cases regardless - any suggestions? Thinking Krylon or Rustoleum high heat paint and primer combo in an aluminum colour that is close to the colour of the heads.
 

Rednaxs60

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Will look for engine paint on Monday. Waiting to see what the shop does to the cases.

Looked at the bearing pic, and the con rod. Compared #1 to the other three and cannot see a difference. Will be taking the cases and pistons into the machine shop on Monday and will ask the question. Looks like con rod plastigauge will be tomorrow.

Spent the latter part of yesterday and today cleaning the cases:
Clean Halves.jpg
Lots of crud and whatever. Decided to clean because do intend to paint, and maybe the shop will do a nice job on the cases because I brought theses in clean, less work for them.

Ordered some parts today, OEM head gaskets, dowel pins and collars.
 

Rednaxs60

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Dan - found an old post of yours on Steve Saunders site from 2006 - "Calling all main bearing gurus". Interesting read, and I'm having the same dilemma, but with the con rods.

Found another thread - "Mr.H's new engine" on NGW from 2017. He had to replace a con rod. The manual says to replace with a con rod of the same weight. My con rods have a 2G marking on the side of the bearing cap. The 2 in the ID code and I had been wondering about the "G". Found the answer - "G" is the weight code.
 
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