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Here are pics of emblems with clear coat applied. Not [perfect, but better than the weathered look:
Working with black is a challenge.
GL1200 Paint Project
- Thread starter Rednaxs60
- Start date
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Cleaning up the 1500 spare rear wheel:
New damper rubbers going in and then the new rotor. Intend to put a Dunlop E4 on then install on bike. Cleaning this rim so that I can clear coat it with the CERAKOTE MC-5100 at the same time I do the 1200 engine. Should protect the finish.
Rim is cleaning up nicely. Using a degreaser with a soft bristle brush on the polished chrome area, and a brash bristle brush on the anodized section. Cleaning up the polished aluminum with 320 to 3000 grit paper, gives a good shine.
Rim is cleaning up nicely. Using a degreaser with a soft bristle brush on the polished chrome area, and a brash bristle brush on the anodized section. Cleaning up the polished aluminum with 320 to 3000 grit paper, gives a good shine.
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There are some nice to do items such as the inside of the saddlebags and trunk. A fresh coat of black will look good. This little detail always makes a good impression and doesn't take a long time considering everything is apart. Most of the undersides and backs will be done as well, gets rid of the roughness on these areas, rough equates to crud catcher. This work doesn't require a lot of setup, and can be done at my leisure. haven't been able to buy more Eastwood plastic restorer so I'm thinking Dupli Color, or VHT product(s) for an alternative. Have tried the SEM black trim, but not a fan.
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Been getting ready for doing CERAKOTE on the 1200 engine and the spare 1500 rear rim I have. I have been working on the 1500 rim for a couple of days. finished up this morning and removed the old bearings, new to be fitted after CERAKOTE. Have settled on the Dunlop E4 for this rim. The Dunlop and the Avon Cobra series are the only two manufacturers that I could find that have the size for the 1500. Others are one size up or down.
Here is a partially cleaned up rear rim:
Here is the final product:
Got all of the black crud off the rim. Was thinking of having it vapour blasted, but it is out of sight mostly, and the prep for any coating is the same, clean, get rid of dirt and grime, degrease, scuff for the product. It's all in the prep.
Will be doing a degrease with rubbing alcohol and SEM Prep, then a good wash with water and dish soap - DAWN as per CERAKOTE instructions. Doing this rim in conjunction with the engine parts/pieces. Looking forward to the finish result.
Have ordered an airbrush to have a second go at the emblems. Like the initial product, but think I can get a better finish with the airbrush. This is the one I ordered, not bad reviews and YouTube videos for this make: https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B071J4M3X6/ref ... 50_TE_dp_1
Have aluminum tape coming as well to tape up the engine parts/pieces.
Thinking I'll buy an inexpensive Princess Auto sand blaster unit to have at some of the structural parts of the bike such as the front fairing cowl stay, and front fender supports. Only $35.00 and if it doesn't work always get to return, PA has a great return policy. Looked at videos to make one, but time and energy is worth a lot to me. There are three to choose from. Here is a pic of one of them:
Here is a partially cleaned up rear rim:
Will be doing a degrease with rubbing alcohol and SEM Prep, then a good wash with water and dish soap - DAWN as per CERAKOTE instructions. Doing this rim in conjunction with the engine parts/pieces. Looking forward to the finish result.
Have ordered an airbrush to have a second go at the emblems. Like the initial product, but think I can get a better finish with the airbrush. This is the one I ordered, not bad reviews and YouTube videos for this make: https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B071J4M3X6/ref ... 50_TE_dp_1
Have aluminum tape coming as well to tape up the engine parts/pieces.
Thinking I'll buy an inexpensive Princess Auto sand blaster unit to have at some of the structural parts of the bike such as the front fairing cowl stay, and front fender supports. Only $35.00 and if it doesn't work always get to return, PA has a great return policy. Looked at videos to make one, but time and energy is worth a lot to me. There are three to choose from. Here is a pic of one of them:
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Continuing on with prep work. Taping engine parts/pieces with aluminum tape for good adhesion to the surfaces, and still have to wash the parts/pieces before painting:
After washing will plug up any hole that goes to the inside of any part/piece.
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Surveyed the rest of the parts/pieces for the CERAKOTE session. Looking at next Sunday for this, may change. Took the liberty to start on some polishing of some of the parts. The CERAKOTE is supposed to be able to adhere to polished aluminum. Did one cylinder injector intake. Turned out pretty good:
The piece on the left is the finish from the vapour blast, on the right, a little polishing. Could have stayed with the brushed look, but polished aluminum is so addictive and it's nice to have a bit on the engine. We'll see how the CERAKOTE protects these polished pieces.
Took the final drive gear cover and did it as well:
Continuing with the injector parts. Had a look at the tools needed for polishing. Bought these a while ago:
Have a few more little bits to go with these. Thinking to myself that I have these so use them, and I will do a better job than a shop because it's my bike and project. Progressing well, starting to gain some momentum.
Took the final drive gear cover and did it as well:
- Joined
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- My Bike Models
- Former '82 GL1100 "The Slug"
Nice! :music:
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Today was a giant leap forward. Have all parts pieces ready for wash and then paint. Finished polishing aluminum pieces. The injector/intake units polished up nice. Before:
After:
Have the requisite amount of polished aluminum to accent the engine:
There are a couple of other pieces such as the timing covers that are polished as well. Will be applying CERAKOTE to the polished aluminum parts/pieces, except for the timing belt covers, and valve covers.
Toyed with the idea of using an airbrush to do the emblems, and the colour choice should be better. Bought a small unit by Gocheer:
Good information and comes with three tips 0.2/0.3/0.5 mm. Did a trial run with one of the emblems. Using paint by "Golden" - Iridescent Gold:
It's much lighter than the first run at a match:
The paint I used flows out nicely and the airbrush is easy to get used to. Expect a few oops, and since it's only paint, can always redo. Won't be able to get the gold chrome finish that the original emblems had. Think I'll take a body piece downtown where I got the paint and try for a better match. Noticed that the amount of paint that is sprayed with the airbrush is significantly less than from a spray can. This will also result in a smoother, nicer finish. Will do a topcoat of clear.
Toyed with the idea of using an airbrush to do the emblems, and the colour choice should be better. Bought a small unit by Gocheer:
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Plan C on the emblem front. Most of the emblems were weather and polish worn so I took the polishing tools I had and after a dip in paint thinner, sanded/polished the remaining gold colour off the emblems. This left a polished chrome look on all emblems except the HONDA emblem for the front fairing. Sonya has done the black accent and will soon do the red. The look is quite good - some touch up to be done:
The picture looks like a gold sheen, but it is not. The HONDA emblem for the front fairing is plastic. Looking at options to do a spray on chrome.
- Joined
- Dec 3, 2009
- Messages
- 10,965
- Reaction score
- 229
- Location
- Kingsport, Tennessee
- My Bike Models
- Former '82 GL1100 "The Slug"
I tried the "Gold Chrome" paint on my old plastic emblems and did not have good results. The paint cap looks like a nice shiny chrome, but the paint is not nearly as shiny.
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I've been looking at SPAZ STIX Mirror Chrome. Can be applied with an airbrush. Emblems are the last items to be put back on so I have a lot of time.
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Progress! Engine parts/pieces have the CERAKOTE product applied. Have to let sit for 24 hours to fully cure. Be able to start on engine assembly very soon.
- Joined
- Oct 6, 2013
- Messages
- 1,456
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- Location
- Hopewell,va
- My Bike Models
- 1949 panhead,1972 cb750,1980 gl1100,1985 gl1200,1998 cbr600f3 and 2003 vulcan 1600 classic
Excellent!!
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Changing to paint mode for the '85 project. Have to wait for parts to continue with the engine rebuild.
Have been toying with the idea to make a blaster to remove old paint, rust, etc. Have viewed several on YouTube and not that complicated. Went to Princess Auto, picked up a $4.00 air nozzle, filed a cutout for the product to flow through, took a water bottle and drilled the neck to accommodate the air nozzle, and used granulated sugar (biodegradable and easy on the environment :music
for proof of concept. Here's the blaster with product container. The arrows show where I modified the items to suit:
Used the front fender support brackets to demo. Start of blasting:
First pass:
Not too bad, took off the old paint. Since this works, will order some walnut shell blasting product to finish this. Will have to relocate to outside, thinking the backyard to do this with walnut shells, may try a sand medium as well. Should work well with small parts. A good wire brushing with a bench grinder would be nice.
Cheers
Have been toying with the idea to make a blaster to remove old paint, rust, etc. Have viewed several on YouTube and not that complicated. Went to Princess Auto, picked up a $4.00 air nozzle, filed a cutout for the product to flow through, took a water bottle and drilled the neck to accommodate the air nozzle, and used granulated sugar (biodegradable and easy on the environment :music
for proof of concept. Here's the blaster with product container. The arrows show where I modified the items to suit:
Cheers
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Picked up a small detail spray gun from Princess Auto:
On sale for $17.00 CDN plus tax - 0.5 mm nozzle. Going to give it a try with the fender brackets - will fast track this painting and if the result is good, pick up a couple more for other small applications, these don't come on sale very often. Should be able to spray CERAKOTE, colour and clear through it. Always looking for information from the various forums and threads regarding rebuilding and restorations. Noticed that pidjones used a similar mini gun from Harbor freight to paint the Hunley's frame and such, did a very nice job.
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Have been prepping the body panels that have the gold/brown paint scheme. Sanding the ridges out and doing a couple of panel fixes. The shelter is not ABS so had to notch the panel, sand, use adhesion promoter, and then apply ABS cement to fill and bond around the crack(s). Wet sanded most of the body panels except the front fairing. Mentioned in another post that I was considering painting the backside of all body panels. Took the time today to do this to the two side panels, and front fender, put an unpainted piece in for contrast:
This is the front fender before paint:
Smooths the surface finish - now that I have started have to continue with all the others - will be worth it when finished. Using SEM Trim Black, not my favorite product but one I had on hand. Thinking I'll use Dupli Color black when I run out of the SEM product, be less expensive as well.
Picked up a sand blasting unit today. Consists of the abrasive hopper and sand blast nozzle:
Price was right, did offer less than asking, but no joy. The hopper is about half full of a silica sand product as a bonus. Will be blasting some parts this week. Looked at using walnut shells for the abrasive medium. Have watched videos regarding this and using walnut shells should be good to clean up aluminum parts such as the final drive. Thinking that this may be an inexpensive alternative to vapour blasting when I do the 1500 engine rebuild. The final drive on the 1200 will be the test case.
Picked up a sand blasting unit today. Consists of the abrasive hopper and sand blast nozzle:
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Took today off to get ready to go for a few days camping in Strathcona Park. Have finished the painting of the insides and backsides of body panels/luggage. Always interesting when you do major projects like this as to what the individual pieces indicate. Finished the fender brackets with 3 coats of Dupli Color spray can clear:
Big difference from this:
When I get back from camping will be blasting a few more items. Giving myself until end September to get all the painting done - should be achievable. Have a 4 day weekend away planned for mid month. Going kayaking up island. Cheers
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Talked to my paint guy yesterday. Gave him the paint codes and they keep coming up for a 1982 GW:
He mentioned that when he input the colour code for the '85 - Gold YR-126M or Brown YR126N - the complement colour came up as well, as did some noted regarding the colour combination. The colour forthe '85 limited is a Sunflash Gold metallic, the '82 GW is a Harvest Gold metallic. Knowing that OEMs change the colour names, will be trying a sampler of the gold and brown metallic paints. Did take in a saddlebag for him to do a colour match. The colours are probably good but don't want to do a lot of trips in/out to get as close as possible. The Sunflash Gold and Brown metallic paints are the colours used on the '91 GL1500.
Getting some black satin finish paint for the backsides of the metal pieces. Will be using the airbrush to apply because the parts are relatively small and the airbrush has very little over spray. Intend to apply the CERAKOTE MC-5100 clear on this black paint as a trial. If the parts being painted are prepped correctly, this clear coat product should work.
Some blasting to do to clean up the metal pieces. Going to try the walnut shells as the abrasive medium. Should be just as good as using sugar, but not as abrasive as silica sand or equivalent.
Looked into bench top cabinets. Princess Auto has one for approx $200.00 CDN, Federated Tool Supply out of Ontario has one for approx $200.00 CDN shipping included and about the same size as the one from PA. Maybe a good purchase when it becomes a sale item. Using it is not an issue, it's where to store it when not in use. Have lots of small items such as the centre stand, calipers and brake associated parts that would be good to clean up and paint. This cabinet is large enough for a final drive unit to be done.
More to follow.
Getting some black satin finish paint for the backsides of the metal pieces. Will be using the airbrush to apply because the parts are relatively small and the airbrush has very little over spray. Intend to apply the CERAKOTE MC-5100 clear on this black paint as a trial. If the parts being painted are prepped correctly, this clear coat product should work.
Some blasting to do to clean up the metal pieces. Going to try the walnut shells as the abrasive medium. Should be just as good as using sugar, but not as abrasive as silica sand or equivalent.
Looked into bench top cabinets. Princess Auto has one for approx $200.00 CDN, Federated Tool Supply out of Ontario has one for approx $200.00 CDN shipping included and about the same size as the one from PA. Maybe a good purchase when it becomes a sale item. Using it is not an issue, it's where to store it when not in use. Have lots of small items such as the centre stand, calipers and brake associated parts that would be good to clean up and paint. This cabinet is large enough for a final drive unit to be done.
More to follow.
- Joined
- Oct 6, 2013
- Messages
- 1,456
- Reaction score
- 73
- Location
- Hopewell,va
- My Bike Models
- 1949 panhead,1972 cb750,1980 gl1100,1985 gl1200,1998 cbr600f3 and 2003 vulcan 1600 classic
May have been the first year it was used
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That's a good possibility. My aim is to have one colour scheme for the bike instead of two, and one pinstripe theme instead of three.
Did a blasting of some pieces using ground walnut shells - 18 to 40 grit:
using the abrasive gun and pail unit I just bought. I tried these after researching abrasive types on line. This medium will remove whatever does not have good adhesion to the underlying surface, rust/paint/whatever. If there is good adhesion, walnut shells will not remove the material. I had the gun nozzle close at a 1/4" and it cleaned, but did not remove some of the material. Here is one of the pieces I did this morning:
The cleaner to bare metal area was done the other day with some silica sand medium that came with the unit when I bought it, cleans to bare metal. The rest of the piece is clean and surface is quite smooth ready for primer and paint. I will give the areas with surface rust a going over with sand paper. To get a smooth, clean surface it might be good to grit blast to bare metal, then treat the surface with a walnut shell blast, sort of like going from course to fine sand paper.
The walnut shells are biodegradable, so no harm, no foul, did the blasting in the back corner of the yard, heck of a mess to clean up.
Won't be doing more blasting at this time. I'm thinking I will have to get a bench top unit to do more grit blasting, especially for parts and pieces you want to be done to a good standard such as brake calipers, and such. Be able to do blasting in the garage as well.
Now to finish cleaning and priming these pieces for paint.
Cheers
Did a blasting of some pieces using ground walnut shells - 18 to 40 grit:
The walnut shells are biodegradable, so no harm, no foul, did the blasting in the back corner of the yard, heck of a mess to clean up.
Won't be doing more blasting at this time. I'm thinking I will have to get a bench top unit to do more grit blasting, especially for parts and pieces you want to be done to a good standard such as brake calipers, and such. Be able to do blasting in the garage as well.
Now to finish cleaning and priming these pieces for paint.
Cheers
