Hoping for help in identifying pin function/wiring of 1980-81 GL1100 ignition switch

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lukaspriest

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1983 GL650
Greetings fellow Honda enthusiasts!

I have made my way over here from CX/GL500/650 Forum in hope that I can tap into your knowledge and experience!

I am trying to replace the ignition switch in my 1983 GL650. Somewhere along the way, I was told that a switch from a 1980-81 GL1100 will work. I pulled up the wiring diagrams for both bikes and learned that electrically, the ignition switches are identical. They both have six pin connections to connect them to the main wiring harness. On the GL650, the switch has soldered wire connections to a pigtail with a male six pin connection, while the GL1100 switch has the 6-pin male connection port right at the base of the switch.

I found that EMGO makes an aftermarket switch for the GL1100, 1980-1981.

The wiring for the GL1100 ignition switch is as such (according to the wiring diagram I looked at):

Black: ground
Red: Battery
Light green/Black: ACC
Brown/White: Tail Light1
Brown/White: Tail Light 2
Brown: Park

It has six pins/blades laid out in the following format:

(Top-key goes here)
| |
| | (Main cylinder barrel)
| |
= = =
= = =
(Bottom of unit, connector pins/blades laid out as shown)

Can someone here can help me identify which color wire goes to which pin/blade on the ignition switch?

Or, put another way, can someone identify what the individual pins do/connect to? That way I can wire it properly to my GL650.

Thank you!
 
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lukaspriest

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Also, the EMGO switch is a direct replacement for Honda part number 35100-431-037.
 

AApple

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Not sure if this is what you are looking for, but....
GL1100 Ignition Switch

ignswwir.jpg
 

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lukaspriest

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I REALLY appreciate you taking the time to respond and post these images!

I have found similar diagrams, but I don't know how they correspond to the six pins (2 rows of 3 pins) of the ignition unit itself. Is there a way to translate/infer from the pictures you posted into how Honda lays out their wires into a rectangular 6pin (2x3) connector? I wish the graphic had a different angle rather than just laying them out in linear fashion.

based on the pictures, maybe its like this?
1 | 2 | 3
4 | 5 | 6

or
1 | 2 | 3
6 | 5 | 4 ?

Or something else entirely? I imagine you can see my conundrum.

I've been pouring over the factory manuals for the gl1000 and the gl1100, but I can't seem to find the answer anywhere. I emailed EMGO to see if they can give me a more definitive diagram of what the individual pins are for but have had no response.

Maybe an owner has their headlight taken apart and could take a peek for me? Ha!

I could just try the connection as my bike is natively wired, but I don't know if I'll fry something. I know just enough about wiring to be dangerous :)

My other option I guess is to just try 6 x 6 variations until I happen to stumble into the right one?

Anyhow, thank you again for your time! I also posted this same question at the CX500 forum but haven't had any luck with a definitive answer yet.

Related thread at the CX500 forum

I appreciate you!
 

AApple

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I would venture to guess that both switch wire positions would be the same. If your original switch has the same connector layout(3 upper/3 lower), then it would just be a matter of transferring the wire colors/locations from the old switch connector to the new one. Can you post a pic of wire side of your original switch, and one of the connector itself?
 

D-50Dave

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I did that switch replacement on my '81 Interstate. Read post # 21 for wiring. Good luck, Dave
 
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lukaspriest

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OK, so here's what my ignition switch looks like. It has the 6 wires soldered on at the base of it that extends into a short (6" or so) pigtail.

mTsKNDt.png


And here's the pigtail connector that matches up with the wire colors going to the wire harness.

W20XqVj.png


Another view with the connector rotated 180 degrees so you can see the other side:

qyEye31.png


And one more pic (ignition pigtail on the left, harness on the right):

6OYiHbM.png


And here's the switch that I have on the way - I've heard somewhere that it'll work and the electrical structure of it mirrors the one I have according to the diagrams from the factory manuals:

Vd85t9p.png


And the connectors, which are pins formed right at the base instead of a pigtail:

3feczmB.png


All of this of course leads me back to my original question - should I just plug my wire harness into this badboy? If I plug it in and the connections aren't correct, do I risk damage to my bike's electrical system? I'm trying to figure out what each pin does -OR- trying to figure out which color wires plug into which pin on a current GL1000 or GL1100 setup. If I knew that, I could puzzle out how to wire my GL650 to this thing.

I want to again thank you all for your warm welcome to this forum! I appreciate the help more than you know!
 

mcgovern61

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The wiring color codes are Honda standard.

RED - BATTERY
BLACK - IGNITION (green is ground, black is hot in these bikes)
LIGHT GREEN/BLACK - ACC SWITCH (Radios, fuse box ACC fuse)
BROWN/WHITE - TAIL LIGHT 1
BROWN/WHITE - TAIL LIGHT 2
BROWN -PARKING

I am under the opinion that the ignition switch and harness will be the same setup. However, using the chart below, you can test your switch against the wire color with a multimeter to check which wires at your switch match. You want to do this test with the harness disconnected from the switch and then check continuity between the RED wire and the other connector wires. The RED wire is power from the battery and it will have continuity between the various wires based on the key position.

With the new switch, turn the key one notch at a time and check which tangs match up to the chart. Then, check the connector and verify that those same wires will be connected if you stick the connector onto the switch. All of the wires in the switch ultimately are positive when energized. None of the wires are grounds since the ignition switch is used as a battery disconnect switch between the system, the ignition and the lights.

Ignition Switch.JPG
 

AApple

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From the looks of it, it appears the new switch will be a direct plug and play, assuming the connector itself will fit the switch. The switch you picture has the same positions as the GL1100....
full
 
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lukaspriest

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This is all SUPER helpful and I cannot possibly thank you enough. I have a super crappy multimeter, but I have a new one arriving tomorrow that can test continuity and will produce an audible tone so I can map it out. Youtube should be able to give me the tutoring I need to effectively use it, ha! My gratitude to you all is boundless. I'll report back with what I discover. Thanks again!
 
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lukaspriest

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Success!

I was able to use the EMGO switch without too much difficulty. I had to bore out the bolt holes a bit because the bolts that secure the switch are 8mm and the native holes seemed to be about 6mm. Once I got the holes widened, I was able to bolt it in and the wiring connector slotted right in. Turned the key to "ON" and my oil light and neutral light came on. Bike fired right up! All my fussing about the wiring layout appears to have been needless....it was seamless.

The only downside is that the barrel of the new switch is just a bit shorter than the original one, so where it pops out is a little off and not perfectly flush.

ydDKtJS.png


I think I might put a little bit of black RTV around it to seal it up nicely.

I just want to thank everyone here for all of your replies and assistance!
 

courtstheman

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I'm having same problem with my 82 gl1100.old switch is soldered and has a blue/pink wire I'm not sure about. New switch is a 6 pin I'm at the end of my rope trying to figure this out please help
 

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