[url=https://classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=214293#p214293:1g3u8oc9 said:
cmyoch » Today, 3:07 pm[/url]":1g3u8oc9]
The issue is on the bike side of the system. With my meter, I verified that green out of the Vetter harness is constant hot. Left signal circuit is working and nothing on the right side of the harness. It is dead.
I took the meter up to the headlight bucket. Left and right running lights are powered and turn off with the left and right signal switch. Left signal wire blinks, right does not.
I assume that in this system, ground is only at the signals, correct? All wiring appears intact but should the assumption be that the right side is grounding out somewhere??
Note the following only applies to the 1975 - 1977 Goldwings. After that, for the standard Goldwings (1978 & 1979 GL1000s, all standard GL1100s, and the 1984 GL1200 standard), the wiring switches to a dual filament bulb so the wiring is slightly different.
According to the schematic I'm looking at, over at GoldwingDocs, the only ground should be at the bulbs.
The wiring looks like this (simplified):
Hot -> Turn Signal Relay -> Turn Signal Switch : [Off] / [Left Turn Signal (orange wire)] / [Right Turn Signal (blue wire)] -> Bulbs.
There's also an orange with white stripe, and blue with white stripe coming out of the turn signal switch. The front turn signals have a single filament, so the white striped wires power the running lights. When either left or right is selected on the turn signal switch, it turns off the appropriate running light.
Huh - there's an idea - did someone hook up the blue with white stripe wire to the Vetter wiring, instead of the solid blue wire?
Otherwise, that gives you an option to test things.
1. Unplug the flasher.
2. Use the multimeter set to volts to check the voltage on each prong on the connector - one (green with white stripe, looks like) should be hot. The other should have no power - this is the connection that goes to the turn signal switch. Check with the turn signal switch set to left, right or neutral.
3. The following steps should only be done to the connector that goes to the turn signal switch.
4. Then set the multimeter to ohms and see if there's some resistance when the turn signal switch is in each position - there should be similar resistance if the turn signal is set to either "left" or "right". If I'm doing my math correctly, should be around 4 ohms if the Vetter is plugged in, or around 8 ohms if the Vetter is not plugged in.
5. In the neutral position, there should be an open circuit.