Negative battery cable

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Workinman

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Can someone with an original Wing please tell me where your negative battery cable attaches to the frame? Mine was attached to the outside of the upper engine mount and I’m quite sure that is not where it’s supposed to be. Thanks, Chris
 

Workinman

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Surely you don’t mean like this...
 

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Ansimp

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You can run a new cable to wherever you prefer as long as it makes a good connection on the engine and you can also run a lighter gauge earth to a common frame point. :yes:
 

Workinman

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Thanks. I’m trying to run it where the factory ran it. I’m pretty sure the factory didn’t run it the way mine was run. For now, I’ve run it under the seat to the front seat bracket where it bolts to the frame. I’m quite sure that’s not where it belongs, but at least it’s not sticking out in the breeze like it was when I started.
 

wilcoy02

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Yes only it goes behind the triangle. The wire runs up the frame and attaches on the top bolt. Out of sight out of mind.
 

AApple

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Workinman":1kd55en9 said:
Surely you don’t mean like this...
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As Wilcoy points out, correct location, but it should be behind the metal "triangle" brace, in between the engine and the brace. :yes:
 

DaveKamp

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If you're not looking for "Factory authentic perfection), The suggestion from Down Under is an excellent one... tie the battery both to a block, and a frame connection...

One thing I've done on all my others *(but not the wing yet), is to weld a dedicated ground tab onto the frame.

Reason why: When you bolt a steel frame to an aluminum engine, you get a bimetallic connection. In this, an electrical potential exists that results in a chemical change at the contact point... call it corrosion if you so desire... but either way, it's not 'clean', and after a few thousand heat-cycles, and plenty of cruises, the mechanical joint has 'buffed' it's surface bare of any corrosion protection (paint, plating) and caused the steel and aluminum (or Al-U-mini-um, if you're from the UK) to become exposed. The aluminum surface forms an aluminum oxide coating, which is darned near an electrical insulator...

By using a dedictated frame lug with it's ground strap to battery, you have a good frame ground. By having a dedicated ground to the block... PARTICULARLY if it goes to a stud or threaded hole that is NOT used for any mechanical purpose... you'll have a much better electrical connection over long term use and elemental exposure.
 

Workinman

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Thanks for the advice. I think for now I’ll stick with the factory connection. This bike won’t be out in the elements very much, if at all, and actually won’t be ridden all that much probably. I WILL ride it, for sure, but my go to bike will remain my Beemer as I’ve gotten spoiled. The Wing has no luggage and I’ve gotten used to bringing all sorts of different gear and gadgets with me when I venture too far from the house. I’m thinking the factory ground strap will work for riding around and showing off.
 

DaveKamp

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Yep, it will.

Big fairing pockets, saddlebags, and trunks are wonderful from the aspect that we can shamelessly stuff things in them to increase the utility of our two-wheel'd sportscars.

The bad thing, is that saddlebags are curiously hungry, and lonely creatures. All one has to do, is open the lid of an empty saddlebag, trunk, or fairing pocket, and the container will magically absorb the most amazing and unexpected objects, and retain them there for YEARS.

They're like... guitar cases, fishing tackle boxes, plastic peanut butter jars, and steel ammo cans. I don't know WHY they're that way, but they do...
 
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