New owner in Scotland

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McTrucky

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Hi all,

I have just bought a 1976 GL1000, that hasn't been used since 1991, so I anticipate needing a lot of advice before touring the hills and glens on it. Previous owner (on the log book) was, I kid you not, William Wallace.... FREEDOM!!!

The engine turns, after soaking the bores with penetrating oil, and rocking it in 2nd gear. But that is as far as I've got. Plan is air filter, oil and filter, coolant and then connect a battery and see what happens. If I can get it running, I'll be well pleased, but anticipating carb issues. There is also a nightmare of wiring to address, and lots of missing bits and bobs that need addressing. If I can't get it to run, I guess I will need to either sell kn as a project, or break it.

Anyway, this is just a "Hello" post. Questions will follow in the appropriate places.
 
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McTrucky

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Thanks all!

Been reading up on the belts, and was intending to get the thing started before doing the belts. Just incase I find the engine is fubar. If it starts, then belts, waterpump and thermostat would get done together.

Do you think hoping for a 20 second run on the old belts is risking it.....? Would you suck up the cost (about £50 from what I can see in the UK) and take it on the chin only to find out that the (for example) big end had been destroyed by low oil before parking up over 30 years ago...?
 

dan filipi

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Cranking with 30 old belts is a gamble of breaking. At least I’d pull off the belt covers and inspect best I can. Twist each belt, try to judge its flexibility.
 

Rednaxs60

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Treat the bike like you would a vintage, older car that has been sitting in a barn for a long time. It turns over, good. If it were to start, it's going to run like crap. The carbs are going to need to be cleaned and rebuilt. It's most likely going to smoke because the rings are seized in a certain position.

Depending on what you are going to use the bike for, there's a lot of work maintenance that has to be done to make it road worthy.

Timing belts and carb work are just the start of the work/maintenance required, but lets you get the engine started/running. These engines are very robust and will start. I would not spend a lot of time trying to start the engine without cleaning/rebuilding the carbs, at least taking the carbs off, cleaning out any crud, blowing through all the ports/jets, and setting float levels. Better probability of success.

New tires, brake system refurbishment, maybe clutch work, electrical system checks, lights, suspension, wheel bearings (?) to name a few issues to be taking care of. There is no short cut to getting this bike road worthy and to suit your particular riding profile.

50 pounds for belts and time spent doing some carb work is a small price to pay for a bike that will give you back that and more once it is on the road.

Just MHO and thoughts on your great find.
 
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McTrucky

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Thanks again.

Started working on it today, and I think it is better than I'd hoped. I think it had been a sidecar outfit that was in the process of being converted back to a solo when it was parked up. The alloy wheels are new, or as new. The tyres are new, still with mold marks and "hairy bits", but sidewalls are cracked with age.

I think it has new carbs fitted, and I have four used carbs in boxes that came with it. Just hoping the carbs were dry when parked up.

The fuel tap was off, and I syphoned half a gallon of juice from the tank which still burns, so will be consumed in small doses in the lawnmower.

Air filter was new. I have already got one on order, but the 30 year old one is going to stay in, absolutely as new.

I dumped the oil, which didn't look worrying and will replace the filter when it arrives in a couple of days.

I'll flush the coolant with water for now; and will do a chemical rad flush and coolant change, thermostat change and waterpump check and gasket change after I get it running.

Electrics is a worry. Seems to be halfway to an electronic conversion, but I don't know whether it is all there and/or working yet. There was a fibreglass fairing so lights and indicators are all a bit up in the air. Wiring is like an accident at a spaghetti factory.

But yes, I'll take your advice and do the belts before attempting a start-up. Any recommendations on what set to buy? I like Gates brand, but not sure if I can get the correct fitment in the UK. T274?
Edit - belts ordered from oldwing.eu, including the "fancy tool"
 
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McTrucky

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I have belts on order now from oldwing.eu, should get them in a week or so (thanks Brexit!).

But never in my wildest dreams did I expect the antifreeze to look like this when I dumped it this morning. Looks clean enough to bottle and sell as Austrian wine. Thank you Mr Previous Owner.
20220522_121552.jpg
 

julimike54

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With you being 'new' to Wings, maybe this might help.....

 

Randy Yocum

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Cranking with 30 old belts is a gamble of breaking. At least I’d pull off the belt covers and inspect best I can. Twist each belt, try to judge its flexibility.
That's good advice, you may have to loosen the radiator on the bottom,to get enough clearance to get a wrench in there to get those cover bolts loose,it makes it easier when the radiator is not in the way.
 

kerryb

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Welcome from Buffalo, (N.Y.) last tip before starting it is to pull the valve covers and make sure no valves are sticking open. Turn it by hand with the bolt at the back of the alternator, or the kickstart lever. I had a valve stick open, and when the piston came up on the starter motor, it bent the valve! Ran great after a valve job and head gaskets!
 
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McTrucky

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Welcome from Buffalo, (N.Y.) last tip before starting it is to pull the valve covers and make sure no valves are sticking open. Turn it by hand with the bolt at the back of the alternator, or the kickstart lever. I had a valve stick open, and when the piston came up on the starter motor, it bent the valve! Ran great after a valve job and head gaskets!
Good plan. What I was intending to do was take the rocker covers off when I do the belts, and do the tappets at the same time. This would also let me ease the pressure on the cam (by slackening the tappet right off) to stop the cam turning when the belt is off - I read somewhere that this is a good idea, the alternative being lashing a spanner to the frame to hold the cam in place.

One question that is also bugging me is that I have seen recommendations that the belt tensions should be set with a hot engine - due to thermal expansion meaning setting it cold results in over-tight belts. If this is the case, it would be easy to run a shim/feeler gauge under the tensioner wheel when setting cold to simulate the 'expanded hot engine' - but I have never seen anyone suggest this. The suggestion has always been to assemble cold, run up to temperature and then reset the tension.

Any thoughts? Very tempted to just set cold and leave it.

Hi from Glasgow.
Where abouts are you?
Check out my website too. I could have supplied your belts!
I had seen the web site, but as the prices were in dollars assumed it was an American site and so kept looking for something European to avoid messy customs and admin charges (then again, with Brexit maybe buying from the Eu is not any better than the States now). I wish I had twigged it was in the UK, and in the better half of the UK at that!

I live in Kinross - but was in Glasgow yesterday.....
 
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McTrucky

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Quick update...

New belts now fitted, but the ones that came off were like new.
Valves all moving freely, but am worried about low compression - it was easy to turn the engine with the spark plugs in place.
So I am suspicious that perhaps it had a belt break, with consequential damage, and the previous owner changed belts and gave up when that didn't fix it.

The oil filter bolt was "mullered" but I got it out by hammering on a socket. I have a new bolt on order and when that comes I will get some oil in it, hook up a battery and see what happens. Will get a chance to do a compression check then.
 

dan filipi

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In the meantime you can tell if a valve is bent by pulling the valve covers off and rotating engine to closed position on each valve rocker. A bent valve will have excessive clearance.
 
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McTrucky

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In the meantime you can tell if a valve is bent by pulling the valve covers off and rotating engine to closed position on each valve rocker. A bent valve will have excessive clearance.
All the valve clearances were fine. But as the coolant and belts were like new, I guess the previous owner may have set them when switching belts.

I am hoping it is just me being paranoid, should find out in a few days. I need to spend money on brakes, tyres, etc but will sit on that until I know the engine is OK.
 

Rednaxs60

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You may want to consider buying an inexpensive "borescope" that you insert through the spark plug hole and orient it so you can see the valves. Be able to rotate the engine at the same time. You can remove the valve cover and possibly remove each valve spring and move the valves, don't let them fall in. The only other way would be to remove the heads. Trying to think of alternatives.
 

Randy Yocum

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Quick update...

New belts now fitted, but the ones that came off were like new.
Valves all moving freely, but am worried about low compression - it was easy to turn the engine with the spark plugs in place.
So I am suspicious that perhaps it had a belt break, with consequential damage, and the previous owner changed belts and gave up when that didn't fix it.

The oil filter bolt was "mullered" but I got it out by hammering on a socket. I have a new bolt on order and when that comes I will get some oil in it, hook up a battery and see what happens. Will get a chance to do a compression check then.
Your on the right track, If you do have low compression and you suspect a bent valve ,pulling the heads is a piece of cake on these bikes,I pulled both mine ,removed the valves cleaned off the carbon on the valves and in the combustion chamber with a wire wheel on a drill,and then lapped the valves with valve grinding compound.Make sure you have a shop manual nearby,to help if needed.
 
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