78 gl1000 new to me. Changed out timing belts, and am positive that cam marks on both sides are pointing outward. With "T" @TDC #1 and #2 intakes are both fully closed. Acting like one side is 180 off, but the outward pointing cam marks have me puzzled. I am feeling resistance in one spot, when hand rotating crank. Can I bend a valve by hand rotating? Any ideas would be welcome. Thanks Hans :help:
newbie, puzzling valve adjustment problem
- Thread starter Hansmanbo
- Start date
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slabghost
Well-known member
yes you most definitely can bend a valve by hand. Hopefully you haven't. Check out this discussion.
viewtopic.php?f=23&t=1936&hilit=timing+belt+change
viewtopic.php?f=23&t=1936&hilit=timing+belt+change
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Have no fear, if no valves are bent your OK and it's easy to get it back in time and install the other belt.
FIRST, the best thing to do is loosen up ALL the rocker adjusters completely.
This will help avoid bumping a valve because you'll need to rotate the crank to get it in time for the other belt.
Now, rotate the crank past 2 TDC slowly feeling for any resistance.
Since the pistons will now be down in the bores you can safely rotate the cam separately.
Turn the cam so the UP is up and timing mark is set for that cam.
Next rotate the crank to 1TDC and install the belt.
Hand crank to feel for resistance and double check both cams timing.
Adjust the valve and hand crank again feeling for resistance, again verify timing marks are good on both cams.
Let us know if you get stuck and how you make out.
FIRST, the best thing to do is loosen up ALL the rocker adjusters completely.
This will help avoid bumping a valve because you'll need to rotate the crank to get it in time for the other belt.
Now, rotate the crank past 2 TDC slowly feeling for any resistance.
Since the pistons will now be down in the bores you can safely rotate the cam separately.
Turn the cam so the UP is up and timing mark is set for that cam.
Next rotate the crank to 1TDC and install the belt.
Hand crank to feel for resistance and double check both cams timing.
Adjust the valve and hand crank again feeling for resistance, again verify timing marks are good on both cams.
Let us know if you get stuck and how you make out.
Hansmanbo
Well-known member
Thanks for the reply.... got the timing belt issue straightened out, turns out the right bank was 180 off. Fought with one tooth off for over an hour. Hunting down a compression tester to see if valves were bent. All 4 cylinders will blow off my thumb when cranked, but not sure of psi. :music2: This forum is a great wealth of information for a rookie winger. Thanks for being you! :music:
slabghost
Well-known member
One tooth off is tolerated by most of these motors.You may find good compression.
Tolerated but makes a hell of a racket :mischief:slabghost":1bd78g2e said:
I assume it was the right belt that was one tooth off? It can be a pain because of tension on the cam. I use a pry bar through the sprocket on a bolt head to line it up and slide the belt on. I think Little Beaver had a different trick for it.
hello hans, welcome to CGW
Welcome from central Calif.
Hansmanbo
Well-known member
Got her started tonight. Glad I have no valve problems. Need to get hold of a set of gauges to sync the carbs and I should be good to go. Set fuel mixture screws 2 and a half turns out... is that right? thanks Hans
slabghost
Well-known member
Mix screws are set at 2 1/2 out for start up. Correct adjustment is warm the bike, set idle to 1000rpm. Then set first mix screw to the highest rpm. Set idle again to 1000 rpm then set the mix on the second carb to the highest rpm. Continue the process for all four carbs. Each carb affects the others so it's recommended to go through all four twice. Then synchronize.
