Omega thread... 1-29-2018 test ride

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Checking in, crazy busy last two days. I'm still getting that "acrid" smell after the bike runs short time, smells electrical not chemical.

I'm wondering if I should go after the coils and that possible short circuit first.

Re: Accelerator pump, if gas can get out air can get in, could this keep one bank of carbs from running?

It's seems both need attention.

~O~
 
I am not familiar with the 1500’s but is there any way that some dirt may have got into the carbs? It only takes a little tle bit to plug the transfer ports to stop the fuel flow. This could happen when changing the fuel filter. This could explain why it stops running with out the choke. I have had this happen on two different motors in the past. Good luck.
 
[url=https://classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=208216#p208216:a3ir908i said:
Omega Man » Fri Jan 18, 2019 7:45 am[/url]":a3ir908i]
Checking in, crazy busy last two days. I'm still getting that "acrid" smell after the bike runs short time, smells electrical not chemical.

I'm wondering if I should go after the coils and that possible short circuit first.

Re: Accelerator pump, if gas can get out air can get in, could this keep one bank of carbs from running?

It's seems both need attention.

~O~


Accelerator pump will only cause problems on acceleration. It will NOT cause one side of the engine to not fire.

"Possible short circuit"?? If yer smellin an acrid smell, that means some smoke is getting out of the wires, or a component somewhere....go for that FIRST.
 
I'm thinking the coil/short thing needs attention first. It'll be the worse of the two. I remember a line in a post elsewhere once when I was researching something else and I never forgot it, "I'm pretty deep into this thing and I still haven't gotten to the coils." Radiators might have to come out. I'll look into it.

~O~
 
I would expect a dead shorted coil to be a pretty unusual thing. Given your description of the method of forcing that line through some months back, I would be leaning towards a close inspection of the harness and wiring. There could still be a short, but it might be caused by an issue in the harness.
 
Somebody please scan that service manual. It may not be necessary to actually remove the coils to test them. If the appropriate harness can be separated and the primary input wires accessed, that's all you need. That, ground and the secondary outputs should allow complete assessment.
 
Agreed. A DVM should tell you if they are Ok (unless HV breakdown, and that is hard to find even with them out). Usually, electrical overloads leave lingering smells for at least a half hour, that you might be able to localize.
 
:headscratch:
You can TEST the coils without removing them....as it states in the manual. To REMOVE the coils is a bit more involved.
 
You can test for spark first by finding which plugs are firing or not firing.
 
[url=https://www.classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=208232#p208232:1060te2q said:
Ansimp » Sat Jan 19, 2019 1:55 pm[/url]":1060te2q]
You can test for spark first by finding which plugs are firing or not firing.

Yes Tony, but the burning smell prevents this.

It looks to me that I'm back to removing the carbs. I can see if I can unclog the inlet on the right carb if needed, I've read that much. AND, I can check that area for problems with the wiring.

Does that make sense to you all?

~O~
 
Good afternoon. I have a 1500 88 and I'm trying to read through the post. What I can tell you is that if you were feeding this hydro line through or around them coils there is a vac elbow just below or in front of the carburetor assembly. This system has three different vac systems working together. If the elbow hose gets crushed it will cause the bike not to run well at all. Rich smelling and no Idle. Also them vac lines that run from the carburetors work with the hole shot valves on the right side of the bike just below the pocket. I had to replace all of mine on the carburetor and the elbow one assembly well. So just below the carburetor manifold there is another set a bit larger in size. If this bike ran before you did the hydro line there is your starting point. This bike runs on vacuum. I do have a real shop service manual that runs on your computer and you would need to be somewhat computer savy to run it. I haven't been on here in a while from work and all but I'm willing to help you with this bike as much as I can. Could work faster by phone or facebook messenger camera phone. At any rate there is a lot going on with this bike and one of the main issues is the vacuum lines. I bought a role of line from ebay one blue and one pink https://photos.app.goo.gl/YpJCRdhfMaeffG2P9 Hope this helps some. Also there are a few good places to get info from. Also you can't do any carb tuning or real running or ideling with the air filter apart.

Regards,
 

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[url=https://www.classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=208233#p208233:2xnauh0i said:
Omega Man » Sun Jan 20, 2019 10:42 am[/url]":2xnauh0i]
[url=https://www.classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=208232#p208232:2xnauh0i said:
Ansimp » Sat Jan 19, 2019 1:55 pm[/url]":2xnauh0i]
You can test for spark first by finding which plugs are firing or not firing.

Yes Tony, but the burning smell prevents this.

It looks to me that I'm back to removing the carbs. I can see if I can unclog the inlet on the right carb if needed, I've read that much. AND, I can check that area for problems with the wiring.

Does that make sense to you all?
:good:
~O~
 
[url=https://www.classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=208234#p208234:27543bxl said:
CRAFTMAN6001 » Sat Jan 19, 2019 4:47 pm[/url]":27543bxl]
Good afternoon. I have a 1500 88 and I'm trying to read through the post. What I can tell you is that if you were feeding this hydro line through or around them coils there is a vac elbow just below or in front of the carburetor assembly. This system has three different vac systems working together. If the elbow hose gets crushed it will cause the bike not to run well at all. Rich smelling and no Idle. Also them vac lines that run from the carburetors work with the hole shot valves on the right side of the bike just below the pocket. I had to replace all of mine on the carburetor and the elbow one assembly well. So just below the carburetor manifold there is another set a bit larger in size. If this bike ran before you did the hydro line there is your starting point. This bike runs on vacuum. I do have a real shop service manual that runs on your computer and you would need to be somewhat computer savy to run it. I haven't been on here in a while from work and all but I'm willing to help you with this bike as much as I can. Could work faster by phone or facebook messenger camera phone. At any rate there is a lot going on with this bike and one of the main issues is the vacuum lines. I bought a role of line from ebay one blue and one pink https://photos.app.goo.gl/YpJCRdhfMaeffG2P9 Hope this helps some. Also there are a few good places to get info from. Also you can't do any carb tuning or real running or ideling with the air filter apart.

Regards,
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Thank you! All help is welcome. Late for work now, will pm you later re that phone call.

~O~
 
The thing that bugs me is that if we all agree that your troubles seem to have started right after you had such a fit fishing that line through, then how would the carbs to suddenly be so highly suspect? That seems like too much coincidence to me. Of course I could be wrong, but it does make me scratch my head a bit.

So if you forget that tidbit, you start Ground Zero and confirm spark. If you have ignition at all six holes, it can only be carburetion. But there's an awful lot of vacuum lines running around in that rats nest…. Could've dislodged one poking that line through.
 
[url=https://www.classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=208238#p208238:2c83kogd said:
desertrefugee » Sun Jan 20, 2019 3:51 pm[/url]":2c83kogd]
The thing that bugs me is that if we all agree that your troubles seem to have started right after you had such a fit fishing that line through, then how would the carbs to suddenly be so highly suspect? That seems like too much coincidence to me. Of course I could be wrong, but it does make me scratch my head a bit.

So if you forget that tidbit, you start Ground Zero and confirm spark. If you have ignition at all six holes, it can only be carburetion. But there's an awful lot of vacuum lines running around in that rats nest…. Could've dislodged one poking that line through.

This really makes sense to me. Should I go for short starts with quick stops after checking one plug at a time desertrefugee?

~O~
 
Definitely. The electrical smell is not something I'd be overly concerned about. You're not likely to start a fire unless you have a fuel leak. Nonetheless, it's never a bad idea to have a fire extinguisher close at hand. If something fries, it probably needed to fry.

Absolutely make sure you're sparking in all six holes. That's low hanging fruit. If there's fire in the holes, then you can worry about those miserable carburetors.
 

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