Painting the 1500

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Short update. Have the fairing molding pieces back on the bike:
Fairing molding pieces.jpg
ordered the left side short piece, bike looks better with these installed. Ordered the caps for the side wings, come in the same colour as the bike and from Honda - won't comment on the cost, not available anywhere else. Pics: without:
Side wing accent missing.jpg
with:
Side wing accent.jpg
Have thoughts that the next time I need one or both of these, buy the chrome accents, strip the chrome and paint to suit, less expensive.

The parts I ordered from down south have shown up in Vancouver. Shipped via UPS. Forgot that UPS likes to do brokerage charges and the likes. An added expense I was not expecting. Should be here this week and I will be able to get on with the final stage of the project, going to look good when done.

Picking up the plywood to start my spray booth build. Hoping that it will minimize cleanup.

Liking the paint job.

Cheers
 
The parts from CA have been in transit for some time now - UPS. About 5 days from CA to the border. Cleared customs in Vancouver, BC. Only a ferry ride across to Victoria, but has been 4 days. Supposed to be here today. Christmas is coming soon too.
 
Parts from CA have been in Victoria for over a week with UPS. Phoned UPS on Friday and was given the company response about C-19, backlogs, and such; however, when it wants money it is right on top of the issue. Made my point to the messenger that I have paid for the service now get me my package. Will be on it again tomorrow.

Took some time today to start on the lazy susan for upcoming painting - proof of concept. Got the base done. Knew what I wanted to do, have a quick change aspect for jigs, so I got some scrap ply and started to play with a way to use quick change jigs. In the picture you can see the temp brackets I installed to hold the jigs that I will make:
Lazy Susan.jpg
Made a temp jig of 3/8 ply base - 8 inch by 8 inch - and a 2X4 stem:
Lazy Susan Jig.jpg
The jig when installed has the 2X4 over the centre of the Lazy Susan:
Lazy Susan and Lazy Susan Jig.jpg
Lazy Susan and Lazy Susan Jig -2.jpg
Tested this with the lid from my 1200 saddlebag:
Lazy Susan Jig with test piece.jpg
Test Piece on Lazy Susan.jpg
Spun the lid and all was good. The 2X4 stem that the part/piece will be perched on can be any length and will be customized to suit. Thinking better to spin the part/piece then to walk around it.

With quick change jigs can paint one piece, remove to waiting area, install another, paint, and repeat. Since flash times are approximately 15 or so minutes, I'm estimating that having 6 pieces on jigs ready to go will be optimum. By the time the last piece is done will be time to start on the first piece again.

I learned from the initial painting that two many parts take up a lot of room and managing a lot of parts/pieces is a challenge. Less chance of dragging the air hose over the fresh paint.

The spray booth area can be enlarged or reduced to suit the painting being done. I have toyed with the idea to do two Lazy Susans to speed up the painting process. Will think about this.
 
Final version of the turntable. It will take an 8X8 base. This will be good enough for last bit of painting for the 1500. Will change think about adapting it so a 12X12 inch base can be used and have an 8X8 base quick change insert. Failing an idea, will make a second turntable. Here are the final pics:
Turntable Final 1.jpg
Turntable Final 2.jpg
Going to use corrugated plastic for the rear and side walls of the spray booth, Coroplast is one trade name. Lightweight, easy to store.

Found a video about setting up a spray gun for spraying distance. Good information, going to try this concept, wall of air test, over the next week. Here's the link: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_56Ah0BnL0M
 
>>Going to use corrugated plastic for the rear and side walls of the spray booth, Coroplast is one trade name. Lightweight, easy to store.<<
Let us know if you find an affordable source. All that I've found is pretty expensive. BTW, make sure you discipline yourself not to spin the table too fast. I'd hate to hear of a freshly painted piece flying off of it!
 
Did a spin test with the 1200 saddlebag lid, no levitation. Had a few mishaps as I did the painting. 2 tarps fell off an upper shelf, hit the trunk lid on the way down taking it to the garage floor. The trunk lid was ready to go, but had a couple of dings from this. Fixed the damaged area, and clear coat respray, all is good. Hoping that these learning issues get significantly less as my paint learning continues.

Phoned Industrial Plastics here in Victoria. A 4X8 10 mm thick is about $85.00 CDN. There are 4 mm sheets but did not cost these. Thinking that a 4 mm sheet would be acceptable. I would box in the fan with 3/8 inch ply. The furnace filter would be part of the fan box. The fan would be located at the rear of the booth and the rear wall of the booth would be taped to the fan box. The rear and side walls are there to contain the painting, not to support anything, so the thinner sheet of corrugated plastic should work. Have been using cardboard to date that is not any thicker than about 4 mm. Easy to store the 4 mm thick pieces of plastic.
 
[url=https://www.classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=217652#p217652:1ijr7f24 said:
pidjones » Thu May 28, 2020 6:59 am[/url]":1ijr7f24]
Check your local home improvement store. Home Depot here has a 4x8x 5/32 (4mm) sheet for $21.
That’s like $85 CD or maybe that’s AUD!! :smilie_happy:
 
Checked today, 4 mm is $35.00 here at Industrial Plastics. A 4X8 sheet at Home Depot Canada on line is $50.00 CDN. Think the 4 mm sheet at Industrial Plastics will do the job.
 
UPS finally delivered my parts today. Came from CA to our customs in 2 days. Released from customs on 13 May after I paid the bill, taxes and brokerage fees. Took 14 days to take a ferry ride and be delivered - expedited post I'd say. Going to unbox tonight.
 
Have progressed the next phase of the 1500 painting. Have the parts available, 10 will be done. There are a few dings/gouges, but once painted won't notice or see. Going to clean, sand and then use 2K epoxy primer:
2K Epoxy Primer.jpg
Decided the turntable needed a stop bolt:
Lazy Susan Stop Bolt.jpg
Tested one of the new pieces for height and securing to the turntable jig:
Heat Shield Mounted.jpg
Heat Shield Duct Tape.jpg
Will have all the pieces on individual jigs to expedite the painting process. This week coming, it's clean and prep the pieces for epoxy primer, and work on the spray booth.
 
Short update. Took the afternoon to clean and start to prep the original heat protectors for painting:
New Parts.jpg
The lower front cowling came in today, the one I had ordered was an aftermarket chromed plastic one. Trying to remove the chrome for painting is a PITA so I ordered a different one. There is one area that is damaged, but this is ABS and is easy to fix and paint. Have picked out the light silver metal flake colour. Going to prep these for an initial one ready for priming. Intend to use Rustoleum primer on the entire panel - 2 coats - front/back. Looked at the Rustoleum primer product(s) on line and apparently if you prime but do not top coat within one hour you have to let sit for 48 hours for the primer to cure and harden. This suits me fine as I will use a Rustoleum light silver colour on the back of the parts. I will use the 2K epoxy primer on the front side of each piece, then paint. Have given myself 3 weeks to complete this painting, need time to ride and such, and prepare the paint booth.
 
Getting the new parts cleaned and prepped. Think I have them clean, but when dry and a second look, a few spots always come up. The parts are green and I will be changing the colour to a light silver. Want to have the backside a silverish colour so I sanded, cleaned and used Rustoleum paint and primer aluminum colour. It will, I hope provide a good base for the new colour. I did find out that if the Rustoleum paint has not bonded with the original finish/base, rubbing alcohol will remove it. Will be letting the pieces cure/harden for at least 48 hours before I do anything else to the pieces. Should have all the pieces prepped to the Rustoleum base coat level. Once the Rustoleum has cured and hardened and I'm happy with the base product, a wet sand then the epoxy primer, then paint. This pic is of two pieces where the colour has been changed:
Heat Protectors base coat.jpg
I did notice that if there are any imperfections, these really show up with a lighter colour.
 
I'll be interested in knowing if wet sanding the silver dulls the color. I know that wet sanding the metallics I usedrelted in a very mottled look, and I had to respray the metallic and then clearcoat. The clearcoat was then wet sanded to remove orange peel.
 
Painted these with Rustoleum to change the underlying colour. It's not the final colour. I'm curious as to whether some of the Rustoleum will come off when I wet sand it. If it withstands the wet sanding, will use 1200 grit just to take the rough edges off, should provide a good base for the rest of the process.

Once these setup, and are wet sanded, will apply the epoxy primer, silver metallic then clear coat. Easier to put a light coat over a light colour than a light coat over a dark colour. Mind you the epoxy primer is a beige colour.
 
Have made some progress in getting to the finish line on this project. Have been discussing the project with my paint guy, should have the silver metal flake on Thursday. He keeps running out of the base paint stock.

Used a grey scrubby on the parts/pieces this afternoon and applied the epoxy primer. It's like a primer filler as well:
Heat protectors and side panels primed.jpg
The lower front cowling has turned out pretty good, was red and had damage as well, but I did some work and fixed it not too bad. Original as received:
Lower Front Cowl 2.jpg
Primed and repaired in front of spray booth fan unit:
Lower front cowling primed.jpg
The fan unit is too keep the overspray contained. This was a good test. You can see in the pic how the fan is drawing the overspray into the furnace filter. There was no spray getting through to the fan. This is the fan in the box after I made it. A few more tweaks and all should be well:
Fan unit.jpg
Hoping to get this finished by end of upcoming weekend, or at least end next week. Then the 1200 gets all the attention, engine is ready for painting.
 
The fan unit is too keep the overspray contained. This was a good test. You can see in the pic how the fan is drawing the overspray into the furnace filter.

Oh, sure, now you post a picture of your overspray fan setup. Could have used that last winter when painting the Slug! :head bang: :hihihi:
 

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