Problems with idling GL 1000 - any idea?

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68k

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Hello everybody

I live in Switzerland, have set up myself a GL1000, which I bought in individual parts. The bike runs and is fun. But I still struggle with a few problems where I ask you for advice on one of them.

The idle does not run smoothly and is unstable. As soon as I accelerate a little, the world is fine, so in my opinion it's the idle system.
So that the machine runs reasonably well, I have to unscrew the mixture screws 3 (!) turns. I don't really know where to look for the fault.

Has anyone had a similar experience and has some advice?

- Valve celarance is fine
- I have a eletronic ignition
- Carbs have been cleaned in the ultrasonic cleaner

I thank you.

Greetings from Switzerland and stay healthy
Felix

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Dusterdude

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Welcome,seems to me you may have a vacuum leak.

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joedrum

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On the carbs the idle Circuit feed is very small and is behind the throttle plate towards the motor ..many carbs have blocked up passages and the brass tower where idle gas comes through is blocked ..very hard to get this clean and unblocked ...if it runs good off idle ..most likely this is the problem ..thos is the tightest part of the carbs system with like zero access to clear it ...
 

68k

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I thank you. Of course I was hoping for an answer like "There's a hidden switch where you can switch to perfect idle". ;-)
As soon as my lift is free, I will umount the carburetor again. I have to replace the water pump anyway.

Have a nice sunday.

Many greetings
Felix
 

pidjones

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Are the carbs proper for the year engine? Please list the year of the engine. Although idle is probably not affected by carb mismatch, performance can be. 3 turns is not too much on many carbs. Some require more for smooth idle. And yes, the tiny passages (and .35mm jet) easily clog. Make sure they get clean (100% is available) fresh gasoline).
 

mcgovern61

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Are the carbs synced correctly to each other? Out of sync will prevent a good idle also.
 

68k

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So in the meantime I've figured out a few things.

I bought the special tool to flash the ignition, but it's still hard to see. If I set my Martek ignition statically and then give it a few degrees more pre-ignition, it runs cleaner. I hope I won't break anything if I have too much pre-ignition. Then I synchronized the carburettors again. But it doesn't run really nicely in idle, but better.
If I have time, I'll replace the leaky water pump tomorrow and maybe do another test lap.

Thank you all.

Oh yes, the rotor of the Martek ignition has knocked out and has play :-(
 

68k

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Sometimes, it takes longer ... or allways?
 

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pidjones

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[url=https://www.classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=218831#p218831:f8xg73ik said:
mcgovern61 » Mon Aug 10, 2020 10:57 am[/url]":f8xg73ik]
Are the carbs synced correctly to each other? Out of sync will prevent a good idle also.
If the rotor is not tight and running true, that is bound to throw things off.
 

68k

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Yes ,carbs are synched.

Replacing the rotor means downgrade to the conventional ignition, because martek isn't available anymore.
For this I am not ready yet. Maybe I try to repair the rotor ...
But you are right, of course.
 

saganaga

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Did it have this problem with the conventional ignition?

Also, Guten Tag or Bonjour! (And apologies if your native tongue is Italian or Romansh, I do not know the greetings in either language).
 

68k

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Hi all

Thank you for all the help. Now a lot work is done and I am happy with the result.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=o-9DfU9H6wU


The main problem was the Martek igintion with the play in the rotor.
The bike is now running smooth and is idleing perfectly.

Kind regards and stay healthy
Felix
 

pidjones

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Very nice! Now, if you plan to actually ride it, get a front fender! That front tire pumping water up your nose from wet streets is not fun!

BTW, I like the low bars. I run low ones myself as it actually seems better for my back.
 
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