Rattle can paint

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Dadster

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OK since the forks are still off my 84 1200i I figured I'd get started painting the front fender. I'm going to use Rustoleum Metallic Blue. To make sure the paint would hold up I bought a side cover off an 84 1200i on ebay to experiment on. I did paint a Honda Shadow last fall using rattle cans and it turned out great. I painted it flat black, a very forgiving paint color. But this time the finish will be gloss. Not so forgiving. After sanding and cleaning the cover I applied Rustoleum black primer that adheres to plastic then sanded and cleaned and sprayed on the metallic blue. Really nice metal flake in that paint. It shimmers in the sun light. I let that sit a couple days then sanded and clearcoat. It turned out nice enough for me to go ahead and start painting the bike. I've got all winter to get it done so I'll take my time.

Any advise would be appreciated.
 

Ansimp

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My Bike Models
1981 GL1100 “Rats Nest”
1998 GL1500c Val
1987 CBR1000f “The Pig”
1991 CBR1000f Red
Some pictures would be great :good:
Don't inhale the fumes! :smilie_happy: :smilie_happy:
 
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Dadster

Dadster

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[url=https://www.classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=139177#p139177:a4sxhghx said:
Ansimp » Wed Jan 14, 2015 4:55 pm[/url]":a4sxhghx]
Some pictures would be great :good:
Don't inhale the fumes! :smilie_happy: :smilie_happy:
The fumes make the sparkles sparkle. :BigGrin:

I'll try to include some pics.
 

slabghost

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If you are using a dark primer a light mist of white over it before sanding will expose low spots while you sand. If it all feels smooth but there is still white that's the low spot. Paint stays soft for a few weeks so gentle rubbing with just a soft cloth soaked in soapy water will polish and smooth it further. Rinse off the soap and pat dry with micro fibre cloth afterwards. The paint will be outgassing solvents for 6 weeks or more in the drying process. Fresh air is a must.
 

canuckxxxx

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I painted my '82 with Rustoleum...very nice stuff. For clear I used Minwax Polyurathane because I read on the Internet that it was somewhat resistant to gasoline. Have never tested it.

Both are from Home Depot but I found the Minwax in the wood finishing section.
 
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Dadster

Dadster

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OK first 2 pics are the fender stripped, cleaned, degreased and ready for sanding.

9KyBmt.jpg


Ze88c6.jpg



I wasn't going to worry whether I got all the pin striping off but it came off fairly easy using 220 grit paper. I did find some places where the original clear coat had cracked and flaked off. I spent extra time on those spots. Here it's sanded and washed, ready for primer.

XbhV83.jpg


tgkQXE.jpg



2 Coats of primer. Sanded with 400 grit and washed between coats. Ready for paint.

C7pdX6.jpg


xGQr67.jpg



3 light coats of color. No sanding. Will let this cure a couple days then sand with 800 grit, see if it needs any more color then I'll apply several coats of clear. Really nice metal flake for a rattle can. Pics don't do it justice. More pics to come.

54Eubz.jpg


dtzwaw.jpg
 
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Dadster

Dadster

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Thanks guys. Not sure about what clear coat to use. I'm leaning towards staying with Rustoleum. I've used it before and had good results. I'll look and see what else is out there. The metallic blue paint in the sun light has a purple shade on the angled surfaces. It changes color as the angle changes from blue to purple and back to blue as you move around it. A very nice effect. I've seen that effect on expensive car paint jobs but surprised to get the same from a rattle can. Can't wait to get all the parts done and back on the bike.
 
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